Vette(s): Numbers matching 1972 350 4 speed, silver pewter body with blue interior
Is there a way to test an ameter without the engine running? Mine does not work (it was dead when I bought the car). I've got the dash/center gauge cluster/console torn down and figured it would be a good time to replace the ameter but I should have made sure it was getting juice before I broke the interior down. Can I pop it out and run jumpers from a running car to it? Please tell me how to wire it that is possible. Or can I test it with a multi meter? Thanks, Dave
My Christmas present to ME! Bought Sat 11-30-2013. 72, 350 4 spd, Silver with blue interior...Can't you just hear Pablo Cruz playing in the background?
The easiest way to check would probably be with a multimeter that has at LEAST a 20A or more scale. Finding a source for a load could prove a problem. A battery charger which outputs 20--30A would work. Find a 12v car or marine battery with a low charge and hook up your battery charger with your multimeter and the car ammeter in series and charge the battery, then just check the ammeter against your multimeter. (remember? most battery chargers have an ammeter built in) Be sure to tighten the nuts tightly on the ammeter your testing and remove it from the vette.
Vette(s): 1977 T-Top,350,Auto Black Ruby Pearl,Steeroids R&P conversion
Keep in mind That the amp meter in our cars are GM galvanometer that measures the voltage difference between the horn relay and the starter
By referring to the above diagram, it can be seen that the ammeter reads the difference in voltage between the battery and the alternator. The wire that goes directly from the battery to the alternator and appears to short out the ammeter is a meter shunt. What the ammeter actually reads is the voltage drop across this wire. The resistance of this wire is about 0.1 ohm. There is no physical resistor in the circuit, the resistance is due to the length of the wire required to get from the starter solenoid to the horn relay around the engine bay. The horn relay is not in the ammeter circuit but is a convenient connection point for the alternator output alternator. When the output voltage of the alternator is greater than battery voltage, the ammeter shows a charge proportional to the difference in voltage. When the battery comes up to full charge, the ammeter drops to near zero. If the output of the alternator is less than the battery voltage, as under a heavy load, the ammeter will show a discharge proportional to the difference in voltage
You can test the gauge with a discharged AA Battery by hooking it up to the gauge
My amp meter slighly fluctuates plus or minus of center. Does this indicate proper operation? I just purchased my '68 in Oct. and recently joined C3VR.
I agree with the statement about the power of C3VR. Quite frankly with the technologies going into the cars, it is becoming harder and harder to find someone competent to work on our older cars. This type of information allows me to take a shot at fixing some of this stuff, while knowing the C3VR has my back!!!
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
An amp meter will show more movement during operation than a volt meter, so some minor fluctuations are "normal". As the voltage regulator kicks in/out, you will notice that surge on an amp meter, but not so much on a volt gauge. As long as the needle isn't sweeping far to left/right of center, that is. If you turn your headlights on, you'll see the amp meter bounce much more than you would with a voltmeter.
____________________________________ Joel Adams C3VR Lifetime Member #56 My Link
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