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3/22/11 12:22am - Original Message: 'engine removal Q's'
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 831
So I'm making plans to get my engine out for the rebuild.  this will be my first engine removal.  I'm going to get some help from a couple of guys with more experience, but I still have some questions.  My plan is to come in from the driver's side with a 2-ton cherry picker.  I'd like to take the block and bellhousing (w/ clutch) and leave the tranny.  Sound OK so far?  Some specific questions about what I need to remove prior, though -

- radiator.  I've got the shroud off and water pump and fan, so it seems like there's plenty or room to move the engine/bell housing forward to clear the firewall/trans input shaft. 

- power steering pump.  All the other p/s equipment is out - enough clearance for just the pump?

- exhaust manifolds.  They should clear, correct?  

- I'm a little concerned about the master cylinder and booster.  Seems like they could be close, but I've never heard about anyone having to pull those to get the engine out.  

- I want to suspend the A/C comp from the ceiling with ropes and keep its lines attached.  Can I get it out of the way enough?  

That's enough questions for now - there will be more.  It's still a few weeks before this monumental (for me) event.  Thanks for the help.

Dave
daveo762011-03-21 22:27:50

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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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3/22/11 5:21am - Reply: 'engine removal Q's'
lukesvette Lifetime Member
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HOWELL, NJ - USA

Vette(s):
1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.

Joined: 5/18/2004
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- radiator.  I've got the shroud off and water pump and fan, so it seems like there's plenty or room to move the engine/bell housing forward to clear the firewall/trans input shaft. 
You should have plenty of room. Just angle the front of the motor up and that will give you more space if you need it .


- power steering pump.  All the other p/s equipment is out - enough clearance for just the pump?
Why pull the pump and get fluid all over the place. If there's no need to replace the pump, I'd leave it in and just tie it off to the side.

- exhaust manifolds.  They should clear, correct?  
Yes 

- I'm a little concerned about the master cylinder and booster.  Seems like they could be close, but I've never heard about anyone having to pull those to get the engine out.  
I've never had a problem. Also, once everything is disconnected, you can turn the motor one way or the other as she's comin out...

- I want to suspend the A/C comp from the ceiling with ropes and keep its lines attached. 
That sounds scary, but ok..use good rope!! I guess this also beans that you'll be pulling the motor out from the drivers side of the car? I've always went from the side at an angle with that wheel off and a jack stand under the control arm. I straddle the jack stand with the 2 legs of the cherry picker.

I also raised the car and inch or two as the cherry picker legs were very close to the frame rails, height wise.

Good luck!!

Paul


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3/23/11 11:16pm - Reply: 'engine removal Q's'
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 831
Thanks for the info, Paul.  It's all pretty much as I expected.  As for the P/S pump - all the other P/S gear is out of the car already so it has to come out either with the engine or before.  I just thought it'd be easier to keep it attached and take it off once the engine is out of the car.  But it won't be hard to take it off in the car, either.  Yep, I'll be coming in from the driver's side.   The plan of straddling the jack stand sounds like it would work.  So are there any tricks for breaking the engine/clutch loose from the tranny?  Take load off the motor mounts and then just jockey the whole unit forward until it clears?  

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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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3/24/11 7:02am - Reply: 'engine removal Q's'
Adams' Apple Lifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19459
If your plan is to leave the trans in the car, I would suggest you also leave the bellhousing attached to the trans. You have more room/clearance to maneuver the engine out without the bellhousing attached to it. Just remove the 6 bellhousing bolts instead of the four holding the trans to the bellhousing.
Just throwing that out there...


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Joel Adams
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3/24/11 10:59pm - Reply: 'engine removal Q's'
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 831
I've been thinking about going that route and guys at work confirmed, too.  I'm assuming all six bolts are fairly accessible?  I'm going to do the clutch, too, so after the engine is out I just take the bell housing and clutch out as an assembly?  

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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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3/25/11 7:09am - Reply: 'engine removal Q's'
Adams' Apple Lifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19459
The clutch assy will stay with the engine...the trans/bellhousing will stay in the car. I'll also offer this advice....it's much harder to try to "stab" an engine back in on a standard trans than it is with an automatic. You have to line up the input shaft of the trans into the clutch, as well as  line up the engine to the bellhousing, and the engine mounts, all at the same time. Not impossible, mind you, just more difficult. I personally prefer to have the trans out, then install the engine, and re-install the trans, but that's just me.
All of the bellhousing bolts are fairly easy to access from underneath. Be sure to note where any of the ground wires are that attach to the bolts on the bellhousing on the pass side.


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Joel Adams
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3/25/11 5:32pm - Reply: 'engine removal Q's'
rod7515 Lifetime Member
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Red Lion, PA - USA

Vette(s):
1974 White 350 Corvette, TH400 Automatic 1972 Tangerine /Go Mango Convertible 383 Stroker, 2004r Automatic

Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 1172
Joel is 100% correct on the difficulty of aligning an engine to a trans in the car. Its easier to install the tranny into the bell and engine once the engine is in the car. Make sure you align the clutch before you put the engine with clutch back in the car. Then slide that tranny right in! Good Luck
Rodney


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3/25/11 9:46pm - Reply: 'engine removal Q's'
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 831
OK you guys have won me over - tranny will come out, too.  It will give me a chance to clean things up, even though I have no plans to rebuild it.  So what about installing engine and tranny as a unit? Guy in my neighborhood just did that with his '79 4-speed and he said it went great.  (I'm hoping he's going to be one of my helpers for this adventure).   And yep, I'll be sure to get the alignment tool before I put everything back together.  I think some of the kits come with the tool.  

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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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3/25/11 10:15pm - Reply: 'engine removal Q's'
Adams' Apple Lifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19459
I think the '79 4 speed had a removable trans crossmember....your '75 does not. That makes it really tough to do the engine/trans combo. I've never actually tried to do one like that tho, so I can't really say it would be impossible...but it will be very difficult.
To be honest, the easiest way to do this is to install the engine first, either with or without the clutch/bellhousing, then install the trans. At least, in my experience, that's the easiest way. I also have an aversion to having several hundred pounds of swinging metal hovering over the fender of my car....so the less mass, the better! I'm always a-skeered the hoist is gonna crap out on me, or the chain will fail at just the wrong moment, and I'll have a tranny stickin thru the windershield....
Again...that's just me...


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Joel Adams
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4/8/11 10:54pm - Reply: 'engine removal Q's'
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 831
So the engine is coming out tomorrow and I think I'm all ready for this adventure.  But I was planning ahead today for the subsequent tranny removal and have more questions.  What's the easiest way to get the shifter off?  There is very little room to get in there.  I'm thinkin' exhaust pipes (at least driver's side) have got to go?  If so, that will be challenging.  I have a Corvette Central dual 2 1/2 system with a slip fit right near the tranny - I don't think that slip fit is gonna budge.  Really don't want to cut into that sucker especially because the muffler shops around here seem to not want to touch it without cats.  What about removing the console to gain access?  I already have the trim plate off and the lower rubber boot, but still no access....

Dumb question alert.....Is it possible to just take the shift lever off from the shifter ass'y and then slide the whole tranny back just enough for the input shaft to clear the bellhousing when I reinstall the engine?  


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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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4/9/11 10:23am - Reply: 'engine removal Q's'
Adams' Apple Lifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19459
The shifter has to be removed from underneath. You have to take the ball/knob off, the spring, and pull the reverse lock-out "T" handle off also. You'll have to remove all of the linkage rods from the shifter too. It takes some wiggling, but it will go out the bottom without removing the exhaust. You will need to disconnect the exhaust from the manifolds, which you will be doing anyway, since yer pulling the engine.
The factory shifter mounting on these cars is just dumb, imho.


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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)
             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
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4/9/11 10:40am - Reply: 'engine removal Q's'
rod7515 Lifetime Member
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Red Lion, PA - USA

Vette(s):
1974 White 350 Corvette, TH400 Automatic 1972 Tangerine /Go Mango Convertible 383 Stroker, 2004r Automatic

Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 1172
Hey Joel, I get that same bad feeling when an engine is swinging over the fenders. But Im not sure if it matters if the trans is on it or not. If the motor falls onto one of our glass fenders its probably all over anyway. Lock up up the building and forget it ever happened. LOL
Rodney


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4/9/11 9:15pm - Reply: 'engine removal Q's'
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 831
I should have done my homework before my last post.  You actually don't need to yank the shifter to pull the tranny.  Just disconnect all the levers at the trans, speedo cable, reverse/steering lock cable, then the bolts to the cross member and it slides right out.  I was surprised that the shifter doesn't bolt to the side of the trans.  My '79 buddy has a Hurst and his does mount to the case.  A bit odd - but it did save me the hassle of trying to get fool thing out of there.    Thanks for the help!

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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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