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4/21/16 8:49am - Original Message: 'How to break in your old school hydraulic cam'
apesa63 Gold Member
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Hillsboro, OR - USA

1975 L48 4sp. Coupe... Rebuilt Motor

Joined: 7/20/2015
Posts: 49
You install a roller cam! 

But seriously if you did install a hydraulic flat tappet setup how and what did you do for proper break in and long life. There are many versions of proper break in if you look long enough on the internet. I chose the recommended Edelbrock procedure because why not, it came from the manufacturer. But that involved a $30.00 smallish, read less than a quart bottle of Chevy OES (Oil Enhancement Supplement) added to the oil for break in and that was on top of all the Assembly and Cam Break in Lube from Edelbrock. Quite the combination in the oil pan and sounds like it should work.

Also, How many miles did you put on the engine before you changed the oil and filter, I am planning on changing my oil at 200 hwy miles and will probably just put in 10w-30 with zinc (ZDDP) at ~1400 ppm zinc to oil. Was considering buying another costly bottle of OES, but not sure it would do anything other than make me feel better. I have also read an article that recommended Delo 15W-40 which I use all the time in my Diesel truck. 

Any good ideas or procedures are welcome.


|UPDATED|4/21/2016 6:49:21 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Daytona Yellow '75 350 Muncie 4 spd
'73 454 on the engine stand.

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4/25/16 5:26pm - Reply: 'Re: How to break in your old school hydraulic cam'
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1973 Coupe -- 454 / 4 speed - Black on Black, Greenwood aftermarket turbo hood, Greenwood GTO style front bumper.American Racing Vector rims.

Joined: 3/5/2016
Posts: 43
Pat - I was told by a rep. at Compitition cams once there is no need for a break in proceedure for their hydraulic cams. Only a machanucal flat tappet cam required a break in schedule. I personelly run the engine at 1500 rpm for 20 minutes upon a fresh cam change. Never had an issue.
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