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9/22/12 12:31am - Reply: 'Re: oil filters'
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 830
I've got 10W-30 Joe Gibbs Hot Rod oil in mine right now (synthetic, ZDDP, $$$) but I think I'm going to switch to Shell Rotella next time, a little bit less $$.  If I'm not mistaken, it's synthetic and has ZDDP as well.  I think it also has a 15W-40 weight that I might try.  

Not sure about the "old cars using synthetic" thing but I just rebuilt my original motor so hopefully synthetic should be fine.  


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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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9/22/12 10:22am - Reply: 'Re: oil filters'
corvette440hp Lifetime Member
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Joined: 7/2/2006
Posts: 8205
daveo76 said: I've got 10W-30 Joe Gibbs Hot Rod oil in mine right now (synthetic, ZDDP, $$$) but I think I'm going to switch to Shell Rotella next time, a little bit less $$.  If I'm not mistaken, it's synthetic and has ZDDP as well.  I think it also has a 15W-40 weight that I might try.  

Not sure about the "old cars using synthetic" thing but I just rebuilt my original motor so hopefully synthetic should be fine.  

Dave, I wouldn't use snthetic oil UNTIL the piston rings have been seated. This is what some say:

We recommend using petroleum 10w30 motor oil on break in to ensure proper piston ring seating. If you allow 1500 to 2000 miles in a street engine or 20 to 30 minutes on the dyno at low rpm, the rings will have had sufficient time to seat and the high initial break-in wear will have occurred.



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corvette440hp
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9/22/12 2:35pm - Reply: 'Re: oil filters'
F4Gary Gold Member
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Grapevine, TX - USA

Vette(s):
1972 LT-1 convertible with factory air.

Joined: 8/26/2006
Posts: 862
Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-30, one bottle of ZDDPlus, Bosch filter once a year.  

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9/22/12 8:27pm - Reply: 'Re: oil filters'
rod7515 Lifetime Member
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Red Lion, PA - USA

Vette(s):
1974 White 350 Corvette, TH400 Automatic 1972 Tangerine /Go Mango Convertible 383 Stroker, 2004r Automatic

Joined: 10/27/2006
Posts: 1172
A few months ago I had a talk with an engineer from the Brad Penn Oil co. I was concern about breaking in my new engine. I was told that Brad Penn oil was a great choice and already had the ZDDP in it. He told me that there was ZDDP in the Brad Penn oil but that I needed to use an actual break in 30 weight oil. He stated that the use of any synthetic oil on a new motor can keep the rings from seating. When I ask him about the break in oil he told me that I needed to drive the car once I had completed the 25 minute break in for approx. 150 miles. At that time I could go to the 10-30 Brad Penn oil. I plan on doing that this week.
Rodney



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9/22/12 11:32pm - Reply: 'Re: oil filters'
rep69
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Chesapeake, VA - USA

Vette(s):
1969 convertible 427 4speed

Joined: 7/24/2012
Posts: 130

I enjoy all the good feedback. This is helping me to decide how to take care of my 69 427. I do have a small oil leak from the rear main seal. I am concerned about switching to a synthetic. Will I develop more leaks?? Do I keep the same Valvoline Max life 10w40 and add zddp? I am looking at Brad Penn oils? I know there are so many options. Just trying to sort it all out.

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9/23/12 12:20am - Reply: 'Re: oil filters'
Gunslinger
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Frederick, MD - USA

Vette(s):
1969 convertible L71 427/435 4-speed black interior

Joined: 9/8/2003
Posts: 3398
The molecules in synthetic oil are smaller and more uniform than dino oil, so they can slip through any gaps in seals and gaskets.  If you have a leaking rear main seal, you'll be depositing expensive synthetic oil on the street rather than through your engine's oiling system.

As far as which oil is best for your engine, look at it this way...the cheapest oil on the market today is far, far better than the best oils available when your car and engine were built.  If you get the rear main seal replaced, feel free to use synthetic, dino or a synthetic blend.  It's your choice and your money.  Your engine will be happy either way as long as you choose the right oil for your expected driving conditions.

I have a '69 427/435 and use dino oil and I don't see where I'm at any disadvantage.  Regular oil and filter changes are the secret more than the brand oil or whether it's synthetic or otherwise.  

As far as brand goes...yes there can be differences, but the Quaker State, Castrol, Pennzoil or whatever brand you buy today is not the same as the same brand and weight oil they made a year ago.  There's no mom and pop oil refineries.  Oil companies are constantly changing their formulas to meet the requirements of car makers, the EPA, race teams, etc.  

I think it's better to stick with the same base oil than the brand...there's paraffin base and asphalt base dino oils...they have differing characteristics but are refined to do the same job with the necessary additive packages.  While the differences are or no significance, somehow I think it's better to stick with the same base oil.  Even then, most US pumped oils are of a grade to be easier to refine into lubricants than mid-East pumped oil, so those oils are more often refined into fuels.  If that's the case, the point of base oils is likely moot.

Just my opinion.


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Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, c o c k y and in general a malcontent.

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9/23/12 11:26am - Reply: 'Re: oil filters'
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 830
Concerning the use of synthetic on a new or newly rebuilt engine: there appears to be a lot of debate on this topic.  I just spent some time on the Joe Gibbs Driven Oil FAQ site, and, while that exact question is not answered, there is an FAQ of "How long should I leave the break-in oil in" and here's the answer:

Frequently Asked Questions

How long can I leave the BR in my new engine?

 

Joe Gibbs Racing uses the BR for the first 2 hours on a new or rebuilt engine to break-in the cams and seat the rings. After 2 hours on the dyno, JGR switches to the correct viscosity synthetic oil for that engine build.

=============================================================================

I didn't use Joe Gibbs break-in oil in my new motor but I did use Comp Cams break-in and left it in for 100 or 150 miles after the cam break-in and then switched to the Joe Gibbs hot rod oil.  I should be good as far as ring seating.  I hope.  



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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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9/23/12 10:44pm - Reply: 'Re: oil filters'
73shark
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Overland Park, KS - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Orange Metallic Coupe (orig owner), L82, 4 spd (WR), PS, (A/C & PW (I installed from wrecked 73)), leather, AM/FM Stereo, ran with '65 FI unit earlier & will again some day.

Joined: 7/9/2003
Posts: 381
Just rec'd Mid America Motorworks catalog that has ACDelco filters for $9.99.

Does the factory run new Corvettes w/ conventional oil before replacing w/ synthetic and shipping them out?


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1973 L-82 4 spd

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9/23/12 10:52pm - Reply: 'Re: oil filters'
Gunslinger
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Frederick, MD - USA

Vette(s):
1969 convertible L71 427/435 4-speed black interior

Joined: 9/8/2003
Posts: 3398
Modern LS engines are made to extremely close tolerances and GM engineers feel there's no need for a non-synthetic break-in oil.  Since LS engines have been in Corvettes since 1997 with no problems in that regard, it seems that they were right.




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Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, c o c k y and in general a malcontent.

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9/24/12 1:09am - Reply: 'Re: oil filters'
73shark
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Overland Park, KS - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Orange Metallic Coupe (orig owner), L82, 4 spd (WR), PS, (A/C & PW (I installed from wrecked 73)), leather, AM/FM Stereo, ran with '65 FI unit earlier & will again some day.

Joined: 7/9/2003
Posts: 381
So is the theory that synthetics are so slippery that the the rings will never "seat"?

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1973 L-82 4 spd

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9/25/12 1:21pm - Reply: 'Re: oil filters'
RalphTil Lifetime Member
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Summerville, SC - USA

Vette(s):
1977 Silver Coupe; built on March 15, 1977. Every option except towing package and roof rack! Just turned 61,000 original miles!

Joined: 9/23/2009
Posts: 24
I actually use the Fram PH5 and Castrol 20W-50 synthetic blend.  A friend with a 1978 just lost the cam on his 350 and was told that it was due to a lack of zinc in the motor oil.  Is this true and should I be putting an additive in my oil?  The engine is about to turn 60,000 original miles. I use about a quart every 500 miles (I know I'm avoiding a rebuild) and so I am always in a refill process.  Any thoughts my fellow C-3 ers?

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9/25/12 4:24pm - Reply: 'Re: oil filters'
LarryT
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Worthington, OH - USA

Vette(s):
1972 Black C3 automatic with red interior. Options include AC, PS, PB, Am/Fm Wonderbar stereo.

Joined: 8/4/2009
Posts: 74
Castrol 20W-50 is some pretty thick oil.  I would be worried about how well that thick oil is lubing the engine, unless you live in the middle of the desert.

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9/25/12 4:43pm - Reply: 'Re: oil filters'
Gunslinger
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Frederick, MD - USA

Vette(s):
1969 convertible L71 427/435 4-speed black interior

Joined: 9/8/2003
Posts: 3398
RalphTil said: A friend with a 1978 just lost the cam on his 350 and was told that it was due to a lack of zinc in the motor oil.  Is this true and should I be putting an additive in my oil?  The engine is about to turn 60,000 original miles. I use about a quart every 500 miles (I know I'm avoiding a rebuild) and so I am always in a refill process.  Any thoughts my fellow C-3 ers?


It's always interesting when someone loses a cam they automatically assume it's caused by the oil.  I'm not claiming it's not the case here but my own belief is it's become a convenient excuse by those with an extremely high mileage engine, abused engine or improperly maintained engine.

From what I've seen from all the many, many opinions and "facts" presented in many forums it seems the time a cam would likely get wiped was a brand new one during initial break-in.  After that it's very unlikely there would be problems given reasonable care.

The only engines that appear to be in any kind of danger from lack of zinc are high compression engines with high valve spring forces.

The whole problem became an issue about ten years ago when some substandard cam and lifter blanks came in from offshore.  Combine substandard parts with less zinc in the oil and there's the problem.  Now everyone wants to blame the oil when it was based on substandard offshore camshafts and lifters.


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Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, c o c k y and in general a malcontent.

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9/25/12 4:54pm - Reply: 'Re: oil filters'
VetteCountry Lifetime Member
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Belvidere, IL - USA

Vette(s):
1977 Black T-Top ZZ4 5Sp 16in Wheels


Joined: 10/24/2004
Posts: 399
        I have used Fram Filters and Castrol GTX 5-30 in all  domestic vehicles for years and never had a problem. But I use K/N filters on my 77 and 05, with Castrol Edge synthetic 5-30. I think your oil is the most important part and Castrol is one of the best.

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9/25/12 5:34pm - Reply: 'Re: oil filters'
yostusota
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York, PA - USA

Vette(s):
1969 daytona conv. all original 350 350 380 4 sp w/air..and hard top

Joined: 5/18/2010
Posts: 1518
From personal experience I wouldn't use synthetic oil in these old cars..main reason being oil leaks..even the new engines that are essentially glued together will leak more often than not when used..I do use Brad Penn oil though..10-40..the real reason to use synthetic oil is on cars that are driven alot of miles in a short period of time..then it's worth the extra lube life..other than that it's a waste of money.

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My first parade at Carlisle 2010
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9/26/12 7:26am - Reply: 'Re: oil filters'
VikingVette
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Greer, SC - USA

Vette(s):
1978 Black with Viking mural painted under hood AM/FM/CB radio, T-top and a 2013 Cyber Gray Grand Sport Coupe, 2LT for my daily driver

Joined: 3/13/2012
Posts: 264
I have just replaced 5 out of the 8 valve seals on the right side of my ZZ4 crate. When I had that engine dropped in, I was told to use 'break-in' oil for the first 1,000 miles, then a blend of break-in and Mobil 1 for another 1,000 and then go to Mobil 1.  This new mechanic I found told me that the valves on the right side were never hot lashed, I had a loose push rod, and a loose rocker arm.  All those issues combined to the fact that I did not have enough oil in that valve train, which is what contributed to the compromised valve seals.  He told me that a synthetic oil will indeed find the tiniest little place to leak.  So I am switching to Castrol GTX 20W-50.  I agree that the viscosity may seem a bit much, but I live in SC and we all know about how much heat these engine compartments build up. 
 
I had a motor home years ago that had a chevy 454 and when I switched to Castrol GTX 20W-50, the oil consumption dropped and the heat build up dropped.  
 
OK...who is going to give me change for my 2 cents worth of comments?


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Warning: The surgeon general has declared that it is NOT unhealthy to smoke your competition AND I just discovered that my corvette is a hybred.  It burns gas and rubber! 
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9/27/12 12:34am - Reply: 'Re: oil filters'
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 830
For some time now I've wondered about the whole synthetic thing - is it really worth it?  I'd be more than happy to go back to conventional, but I do believe there is some truth in the zinc/ZDDP issue.  It sure seems like it's a needed ingredient for a flat tappet cam motor.  I guess you could just get any oil and then add an additive, but I'd rather use an oil that has everything needed included.  Are there any good conventional oils with ZDDP already included?  

FWIW - my newly rebuilt original motor doesn't drip a drop using synthetic - yet.  Guess it could change as it ages, though.  


____________________________________

 

1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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9/27/12 1:01am - Reply: 'Re: oil filters'
73shark
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Overland Park, KS - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Orange Metallic Coupe (orig owner), L82, 4 spd (WR), PS, (A/C & PW (I installed from wrecked 73)), leather, AM/FM Stereo, ran with '65 FI unit earlier & will again some day.

Joined: 7/9/2003
Posts: 381
Doesn't the Shell Rotella for diesels still have the zinc, etc in it?

The reason they reduced the amount in oil is the detrimental effect it has on cats.


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1973 L-82 4 spd

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9/28/12 1:40pm - Reply: 'Re: oil filters'
F4Gary Gold Member
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Grapevine, TX - USA

Vette(s):
1972 LT-1 convertible with factory air.

Joined: 8/26/2006
Posts: 862
73shark said: Doesn't the Shell Rotella for diesels still have the zinc, etc in it?

The reason they reduced the amount in oil is the detrimental effect it has on cats.


I don't think Rotella has the 1200 ppm level anymore.  I thought I read somewhere that 40w oil and over does have the higher levels of zinc.  Bobistheoilguy.com is usually a good place for info on this.



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9/28/12 9:46pm - Reply: 'Re: oil filters'
73shark
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Overland Park, KS - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Orange Metallic Coupe (orig owner), L82, 4 spd (WR), PS, (A/C & PW (I installed from wrecked 73)), leather, AM/FM Stereo, ran with '65 FI unit earlier & will again some day.

Joined: 7/9/2003
Posts: 381
There's a great article re: Oil in the Jan 2012 issue of Corvette Magazine.

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1973 L-82 4 spd

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