I'm about to do a tune-up for the first time and change my plugs. Can I access all of them from above or is it easier to go from underneath on a few of them? I have the stock exhaust manifolds by the way and you can't see any of the plugs from above as I'm sure all of you know. I will also be changing out the plug wires. Do I have to remove any of those heat shields down there or can I snake the wires out and in without removing them?
I'm sure most of you have done this many times so I'm just asking for any tips or tricks that have worked for you in the past. I purchased one of the tune-up kits from Ecklers that has the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. I know I could look it up but what gap has worked best for you guys on a stock 350? I think the kit comes with the AC Rapid Fire plugs if that makes a difference. Sould I be concerned about reusing my old coil and isn't there some kind of plug-in electronic module in there somewhere as well? Should I be okay in reusing them?
I know this is basic stuff but I have never done it on a C3 and want to do things right the first time on my baby.
Vette(s): 1981 Great White Shark. Red Interior, 350/190hp. PS, PB (SS), A/C CC, T-Tops, Going to remain as Stock as possible. Served three years in Active Duty Army, then Retired Air Force after 34 years! Badger State Vetts Car Club. 175,000 Original miles!!
Plugs for my 1981 Great White Shark are the AC Type R-45TS, some say R43TS !! But I use the R45, works better with my ECM. The Gap should be set at .045 and it is much easier to change the plugs from the bottom. If you can leave the shields in place they can be a PITA to remove and get back on. Try to put the wires back into the guides on the engine. Got any more questions?? Ask away!! Hi Ho, Silver................ Away!!
P.S. There is a module inside the distributer, is that what you mean?? The ECM, if you got one, should be behind the drivers seat by the battery!! Also good idea to put plug wires on plugs first, number them and then put on cap. That way you are under the car once!!!!!!
OOPS!!! You got a stock 1979??? Then you do not have an ECM. That was on 80-82 only!!!!
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
The front 2 plug wires on the driver's side run behind the engine mounts...changing them is a test of patience...and vocabulary. Some have been able to cut the old ends off, then thread the new wires back thru there by taping them together., but you may still need to un-bolt the mount from the engine, and raise it up some. The only way I've ever changed the wires(and put them back correctly) was to pull the engine...
Others may have better tips, and luck...
____________________________________ Joel Adams C3VR Lifetime Member #56 My Link
What a great design idea that was! I doubt I will take my engine out to put new plug wires on. I don't want to rig up something that looks like crap but that seems a bit like too much work to me. Good thing I'm not trying for a Bloomington 100 point car. I'll figure something out. You would think on a car this old and basic that this procedure would not be quite so difficult. Oh well, if it was easy anybody could do it and our cars wouldn't be so special. I promise to keep telling myself that when I'm under the car and using every curse word known to man.
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