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6/27/12 8:26pm - Reply: 'Re: Question on Temps'
tonytheroofer
Former Member
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Rochester, NY - USA

Vette(s):
1980 L- 82 fully restored and upgraded.

Joined: 6/12/2012
Posts: 95
I am somewhat reluctant to go along with what appears to be the accepted idea that heat has built up causing a hard start after a shut down. I AM not saying this is not possible but a few things make me want to say something else is happening here.

He has said he needs to crank it over a lot more and baby it till it runs smooth. Are you pumping gas peddle to restart it when hot ? Are you smelling gas ? Have you got in when hot pushed peddle to floor and cranked her over ? 

I ask and wonder because if he has this issue now and is saying it is heat because of a tight stock engine compartment then why not have this issue when new and why have we not always herd of this complaint more often and have it blamed on engine heat ? ? ? 

Usually a HOT engine will crank hard and slow . not normal and have to be babied till smooth so i would check , timing , carb , vac leak ect .. 





____________________________________
1980 , ZZ430 , 3.92 rear , 700R4 2400 stall NEW EZ EFI 
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6/28/12 1:37pm - Reply: 'Re: Question on Temps'
JohnRR
Standard Member
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Joined: 2/22/2011
Posts: 110
I experienced hard starting after a hot shut down on several old cars back in the 70's.  When I say hard starting, I mean slow cranking like the battery is nearly dead, or timing is over-advanced.  I would have to wait awhile for things to cool down, then it would start up fine.  I think the starter motor got over heated.  That's why GM installed shields around the starter motor.

John


____________________________________
1973 BB 4-Speed Coupe Project Car
2009 Z06 Mostly Stock
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7/11/12 2:57pm - Reply: 'Re: Question on Temps'
Badger
Former Member
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Bettendorf, IA - USA

Vette(s):
1979 Sport Coupe, titanium silver with red interior

Joined: 6/3/2012
Posts: 31
I have heat issues as well. Not when normal driving then i run 180-190 but on race days when i push her im always around 220 obviously worse through out the day. My solution is going to be to ditch the old mechanical fan and install an electric pull type fan. On race days though I also open the hood after every run and use a pump type pestiside spreader full of water to mist my engine compartment, I also run with my headlights up to allow more airflow to the radiator. Our C3s will always have heat issues due to poor design for cooling. There is something like 3 foot of fiberglass nose and the like in front of the radiator not to mention the headlights hanging right in the way of airflow
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7/12/12 9:02pm - Reply: 'Re: Question on Temps'
73shark
Standard Member
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Overland Park, KS - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Orange Metallic Coupe (orig owner), L82, 4 spd (WR), PS, (A/C & PW (I installed from wrecked 73)), leather, AM/FM Stereo, ran with '65 FI unit earlier & will again some day.

Joined: 7/9/2003
Posts: 398
Since the Shark is a bottom breather, the headlites really don't impede the airflow that much.  Overheating can be caused by a radiator that needs rodding out, missing foam seals, missing fan shroud, bad fan clutch, bad t-stat, collapsed hoses, not using a 50/50 coolant mix, and air trapped in the engine.

Hard hot starts can be caused by timing which can be worked around by putting a switch in the coil supply (non-HEI) and spinning the motor and then turn on the coil.


____________________________________

1973 L-82 4 spd

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