Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Welcome to the Shark Tank! You are correct...the plug wires for the front cylinders do indeed run behind the engine mount. Some folks have managed to snake new wires thru by taking the terminals off first, then sliding the wires behind the mount, and then re-attaching the terminals. Some also un-bolt the mount, and jack the engine up a bit to help. You might also opt to just run the new wires over the tops of the valve covers, but you run the risk of burning wires on the exhaust, and creating ignition noise in the radio....which is why the wires are covered with the shielding to start with. One other option is to pull the engine out....much easier to do the wires then.
____________________________________ Joel Adams C3VR Lifetime Member #56 My Link
Vette(s): 1973 L82 4 Speed Coupe - Very original, well documented driver/survivor. 2016 Bend Regional NCRS Top Flight.
Your are correct, running a new set of plug wires to the front two on each side is a pain in the a?? Once you get all of the shielding and grease/grime out of the way, spray some silicone on the distributor end of the new wires and "carefully" remove the round boot. With the boots removed, you should be able to run some small guage wire up through from the bottom and snake the the new wires down through. Using the same silicone spray to lube up the boots and put them back on. I usually do one wire at a time to make sure I don't get the firing order goofed up. Good luck and let us know how it works out.
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