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9/7/10 8:55pm - Original Message: 'Electric Fuel Pump on 68'
rlu1968
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Gordonvillle, TX - USA

Vette(s):
1968 Roadster 427

Joined: 11/28/2003
Posts: 222
Okay, not enough info. from prior post. 
Does anyone have a 68 or 69 with an electric fuel pump. 
I would like to know which fuel pump to go with and how it was mounted and about the relay. etc. 
 


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9/8/10 12:40pm - Reply: 'Electric Fuel Pump on 68'
Adams' Apple Lifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19458
What pump would depend on the type of engine/carb set-up you have. It's best to mount electric pumps as close tot he tank as possible...most of them are designed to push fuel, not pull. When I got my '74, there was an electric pump mounted to the rear bumper bracket, and wired directly into the hot side of the electric window circuit breaker!  Angry It was one of the first thigns I got rid of, too.

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9/8/10 7:13pm - Reply: 'Electric Fuel Pump on 68'
rlu1968
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Gordonvillle, TX - USA

Vette(s):
1968 Roadster 427

Joined: 11/28/2003
Posts: 222
So you did not like the Elect. fuel pump? 
I am not crazy about the idea but I need some way of keeping the gas lines from from boiling with the headers and thus causing a vapor lock. So I thought maybe an elect fuel pump rather than the manual which sits so close to the headers. I have insulation, the really good kind,  wrapped all over the lines and around the the pump.  But nothing helps. I even had to go with the Mean Green Starter which is smaller and does not heat soak, so I could start the car. After driving 15 miles or so and then turning the car off. and then trying to restart within  10 min. or so the  car will
 vapor lock.
Prior to that with the regular starter it would not even turn over. The starter would get so hot and heat soak.
Keep in mind I live in Texas and the outside temp is sometimes 100 to 105.   


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9/8/10 8:23pm - Reply: 'Electric Fuel Pump on 68'
yostusota
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York, PA - USA

Vette(s):
1969 daytona conv. all original 350 350 380 4 sp w/air..and hard top

Joined: 5/18/2010
Posts: 1518
I put header wrap on my fuel lines this weekend and it worked for me so far..not sure ..maybe re routing the fuel lines away from the engine..starting at the pass side wheel where the fuel line comes in.. Maybe go up the fire wall then up to the carb..and wrap the heck out of the lines..with an electric pump of course..you can hook the pump up at the rear at the rubber tank lines...maybe find a speed shop down there in heat land that has ideas on what else you can do..we had a heat stroke here this summer so I think I did pretty good..I would put the relay away from heat also..I will look for a pump that might work for you..
Rich

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9/8/10 10:33pm - Reply: 'Electric Fuel Pump on 68'
rlu1968
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Gordonvillle, TX - USA

Vette(s):
1968 Roadster 427

Joined: 11/28/2003
Posts: 222
Thanks, I have some heavy duty insulation on about everything including my spark plug wires.
I don't know what else to do but go with elect. fuel pump. I have an edlebrock Carb. No spacer between the carb. and manifold, but not a whole lot of room before the hood shuts on the carb.
That isn't the problem because when I had a glass carb filter and the car got vapor lock there would be no fuel in the glass filter. I since removed this. Also the fuel pump is new. So can't blame it. 
I think getting the gas lines away from the headers and maybe up the firewall may be the best way to go. 
Just want a quite elect fuel pump and something that works. 


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9/9/10 10:53am - Reply: 'Electric Fuel Pump on 68'
VetteSpecialties
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Mounds View, MN - USA

Vette(s):
70 LT1 coupe, 69 350 HP coupe, 69 390HP 427 coupe, 71 LS5 convert, 85 coupe, 93 coupe

Joined: 5/24/2007
Posts: 1031
All the other problems you describe make me wonder if your engine is generating an abnormal amount of heat.  You shouldn't have had such a serious starter problem, for example.  I think you should thoroughly evaluate your cooling system, but especially have your tune checked, both air/fuel ratio, and timing.

Larry


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9/9/10 1:39pm - Reply: 'Electric Fuel Pump on 68'
rlu1968
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Gordonvillle, TX - USA

Vette(s):
1968 Roadster 427

Joined: 11/28/2003
Posts: 222
Radiator was vated several years ago.. Water pump is replaced, Vette runs with water gauge showing 200 to 210. But it is about 190 when I ran a temp check from the engine. This was after 20 miles or so driving. No overheating problems.
Vapor lock does not stall the car, just after it is turned off the heat begins. Then it won't start for 20 or 30 min. 
Maybe an elect fan to continue to run awhie, after engine is off.  I have the electronic ign. rather than the points. No back fire, and last time the timing was checked it seemed fine.  
I had this problem with my  Holley carb. so this is why I went to the Eldebrock carb.  It all works just fine except for the vapor lock or what seems to be loose of fuel after it is hot.  Not the original engine. It use to be a 427 435hp with duces. Now it is just a 350. I am up to any suggestion on this. Right now the car is in the body shop for a complete makeover.  Body that is. Soda Blasted and soon new paint.
Then back to th problem of Vapor lock. 
I am just about ready to pull this engine and get a crate engine and see if my problems stop. 


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9/10/10 12:38pm - Reply: 'Electric Fuel Pump on 68'
VNCRUISER
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North Hills, CA - USA

Vette(s):
1972 T-Top

Joined: 6/12/2003
Posts: 500
        The small block should not run that hot...200-210 is high for an early C3...CVheck all the seals around the shroud (you are running a shroud, aren't you?) and fan clutch.
     Also, as Vette Specialties mentioned, your tume...specifically the timing...Too advanced will cause it to run hot and give hard re-starts...
      Just my .2......
                      Reid     '72 T-top


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9/10/10 7:16pm - Reply: 'Electric Fuel Pump on 68'
rlu1968
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Gordonvillle, TX - USA

Vette(s):
1968 Roadster 427

Joined: 11/28/2003
Posts: 222
I have replaced all the seals around the radiator and shroud. I have a fan extension instead of the fan clutch.  I was told this is as good as the fan clutch and will keep the radiator cooler. I have been looking for the article on the fan extension, but I haven't been able to find it. 
This has really got me to thinking that since I don't have the fan clutch it does not continue to spin for awhile after the car is turned off. Perhaps that could be the problem???????
What is the true purpose of the fan clutch.


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9/10/10 7:58pm - Reply: 'Electric Fuel Pump on 68'
rlu1968
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Gordonvillle, TX - USA

Vette(s):
1968 Roadster 427

Joined: 11/28/2003
Posts: 222

I found that the extension or adapter makes the fan spin continously for more cooling and bolts up in the same positon and replaces the fan clutch. So what is the problem with that. Fan Extension vrs clutch.



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