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6/22/15 10:47am - Original Message: 'Fuel Pump Replacement Help!'
BobOvette
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Millstone Township, NJ - USA

Vette(s):
1978 Pace Car - L82 with a 4 Speed AM -FM CB radio

Joined: 2/6/2010
Posts: 71

I知 in the process of replacing my fuel pump on my 1978 L-82 but I need some guidance.  Exactly what bolt are they referring about on the paragraph below (taken from C3 repair manual)?  Also, since the pump is out, how do I pick up the fuel push rod?


Any help is greatly appreciated!!

 

Thanks,


Bob


徹n small-block engines, remove the bolt from the front right face of the engine block

which is almost opposite the forward pump mounting bolt. Insert a longer bolt (5x16x2

in.) in this hole and snug down the bolt. This will hold the fuel pump pushrod in place. On

big-block engines, the pushrod can be retained with heavy grease or mechanical fingers

during installation.

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6/22/15 11:32am - Reply: 'Re: Fuel Pump Replacement Help!'
johnu
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Eagan, MN - USA

Vette(s):
1981 Corvette Two-Tone Claret color, 4 spd, C7 Vert

Joined: 5/23/2007
Posts: 507
Yes, the bolt in there now is a stubby one.  I cannot remember what bolt I inserted to hold the rod in place to keep it from falling out when you remove the fuel pump.  If memory is correct I used one of the bolts off the A/C supports to thread in.
 
This is one nightmare to do.  I actually created some new swear words doing this.  Pull the passenger tire off.  You will need a long extension to get on one of the fuel pump bolts to remove it.
I needed to remove the A/C compressor.  Mine was already Freon free so no loss there.
 
Only two bolts hold it on and a clamp for a hose and one fitting.....but you take half that side of the components off to get to those bolts.... the frame is in the way for access etc.
 
FYI, Check your replacement fuel pump for the proper fitting under it.  I was lucky to find a Delco depot 5 minutes from the house to get the correct one with the correct flange after the local parts house(s) only had the wrong one...that listed it to fit.





|UPDATED|6/22/2015 9:32:56 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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6/22/15 11:34am - Reply: 'Re: Fuel Pump Replacement Help!'
Adams' Apple Lifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
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Here's a shot of the bolt in question. You'll need to remove the short bolt that is in the hole, and insert a longer bolt in it's place to hold the pushrod up. Sometimes a magnet can get ahold of the rod and slide it back up, sometimes you can use your finger, a small pocket screwdriver, or even a bent feeler gauge or hemostats.....it's a crapshoot as to what will work from one minute to the next. Once you do manage to get the rod pushed back up, then you'll want to hold it there and SNUG up the longer bolt you put in the front. You don't want to crank down on the longer bolt...just snug enough to keep the rod from falling back down. Too tight, and you can bend the pushrod.....not a good thing. Dead

If all these tips fail, your only option is to remove the pump plate, and push the dern rod back up with the plate off.

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6/22/15 11:47am - Reply: 'Re: Fuel Pump Replacement Help!'
BobOvette
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Millstone Township, NJ - USA

Vette(s):
1978 Pace Car - L82 with a 4 Speed AM -FM CB radio

Joined: 2/6/2010
Posts: 71
Thank you for your help! I'll let you know how I made out!

Bob


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6/22/15 11:58am - Reply: 'Re: Fuel Pump Replacement Help!'
Vman73
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Gig Harbor, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1973 L82 4 Speed Coupe - Very original, well documented driver/survivor. 2016 Bend Regional NCRS Top Flight.

Joined: 10/2/2014
Posts: 362
Bob - the bolt they are referring to is on the right front corner of the block about two inches from the bottom. If your looking down from the passenger side fender, the RH fuel pump bolt you took out is almost pointing right at it. The bolt is all by itself and the only one that looks like its not doing anything, just looks like a bolt screwed into the block. Remove that bolt and install the longer bolt they are referring to to hold the pump push rod in its up while position while reinstalling the pump. When your done make sure you remove the longer bolt and install the original or you will have a very nasty oil leak. If the rod fell down when you removed the pump, either use a piece of wire bent with a hook on the end to snag it and push it up, or I generally remove the fuel pump mounting plate which is held on by the two bolts right below the fuel pump bolts. If you remove the plate, you will need to clean an buy an additional gasket to replace, but the rod will be openly accessible to push back up where it belongs. Also watch out when you remove the plate because the rod will probably fall out. Note which end of the rod was up in the block and which end was out at the pump. Last but not least, the rod and pump are actuated by a lobe on the cam, if you reinstall and the lobe is pushing the rod out, you will have to compress the spring in the fuel pump as your trying to reinstall it. It's much easier to check the lobe position by putting the rod back in and hold while you turn the motor over by HAND with a wrench on the crank pulley. When you can get the rod to achieve its highest position in the block, tighten the longer bolt you installed in the front of the block to hold it in that position, then install the mounting plate and the pump. Tighten the bolt just enough to hold the rod in position, you dont need to reef on it and REMEMBER to remove the longer bolt and reinstall the original when your done !! Sorry for the long winded answer, hope this helps. Oooooops, beat to the punch while typing !!! Better three replies than none.

|UPDATED|6/22/2015 9:58:31 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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John Sigmund
valkman57@sbcglobal.net
NCRS Member 61302
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6/22/15 1:17pm - Reply: 'Re: Fuel Pump Replacement Help!'
F4Gary Gold Member
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Grapevine, TX - USA

Vette(s):
1972 LT-1 convertible with factory air.

Joined: 8/26/2006
Posts: 869
Vman73 said: Bob - the bolt they are referring to is on the right front corner of the block about two inches from the bottom. If your looking down from the passenger side fender, the RH fuel pump bolt you took out is almost pointing right at it. The bolt is all by itself and the only one that looks like its not doing anything, just looks like a bolt screwed into the block. Remove that bolt and install the longer bolt they are referring to to hold the pump push rod in its up while position while reinstalling the pump. When your done make sure you remove the longer bolt and install the original or you will have a very nasty oil leak. If the rod fell down when you removed the pump, either use a piece of wire bent with a hook on the end to snag it and push it up, or I generally remove the fuel pump mounting plate which is held on by the two bolts right below the fuel pump bolts. If you remove the plate, you will need to clean an buy an additional gasket to replace, but the rod will be openly accessible to push back up where it belongs. Also watch out when you remove the plate because the rod will probably fall out. Note which end of the rod was up in the block and which end was out at the pump. Last but not least, the rod and pump are actuated by a lobe on the cam, if you reinstall and the lobe is pushing the rod out, you will have to compress the spring in the fuel pump as your trying to reinstall it. It's much easier to check the lobe position by putting the rod back in and hold while you turn the motor over by HAND with a wrench on the crank pulley. When you can get the rod to achieve its highest position in the block, tighten the longer bolt you installed in the front of the block to hold it in that position, then install the mounting plate and the pump. Tighten the bolt just enough to hold the rod in position, you dont need to reef on it and REMEMBER to remove the longer bolt and reinstall the original when your done !! Sorry for the long winded answer, hope this helps. Oooooops, beat to the punch while typing !!! Better three replies than none.



Good explanation.





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6/22/15 4:49pm - Reply: 'Re: Fuel Pump Replacement Help!'
VetteCountry Lifetime Member
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Belvidere, IL - USA

Vette(s):
1977 Black T-Top ZZ4 5Sp 16in Wheels


Joined: 10/24/2004
Posts: 399
Small vise crips on fuel hose, will keep you from taking a fuel bath.

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6/22/15 6:02pm - Reply: 'Re: Fuel Pump Replacement Help!'
dwa175 Gold Member
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oakville, CT - USA

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1979 coupe and now 2007 c-6

Joined: 7/19/2014
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listen to adam    use a screw driver  lift rod up stick fuel pump arm in bolt it up  I must have done 1000 of these  it hard the frist time after that you will not think if must replace or help some one. dwaBeer          note on high milage cars with lack of oil chane the rod will stay up   yes.

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6/22/15 6:30pm - Reply: 'Re: Fuel Pump Replacement Help!'
Vman73
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Gig Harbor, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1973 L82 4 Speed Coupe - Very original, well documented driver/survivor. 2016 Bend Regional NCRS Top Flight.

Joined: 10/2/2014
Posts: 362
F4Gary said:
Vman73 said: Bob - the bolt they are referring to is on the right front corner of the block about two inches from the bottom. If your looking down from the passenger side fender, the RH fuel pump bolt you took out is almost pointing right at it. The bolt is all by itself and the only one that looks like its not doing anything, just looks like a bolt screwed into the block. Remove that bolt and install the longer bolt they are referring to to hold the pump push rod in its up while position while reinstalling the pump. When your done make sure you remove the longer bolt and install the original or you will have a very nasty oil leak. If the rod fell down when you removed the pump, either use a piece of wire bent with a hook on the end to snag it and push it up, or I generally remove the fuel pump mounting plate which is held on by the two bolts right below the fuel pump bolts. If you remove the plate, you will need to clean an buy an additional gasket to replace, but the rod will be openly accessible to push back up where it belongs. Also watch out when you remove the plate because the rod will probably fall out. Note which end of the rod was up in the block and which end was out at the pump. Last but not least, the rod and pump are actuated by a lobe on the cam, if you reinstall and the lobe is pushing the rod out, you will have to compress the spring in the fuel pump as your trying to reinstall it. It's much easier to check the lobe position by putting the rod back in and hold while you turn the motor over by HAND with a wrench on the crank pulley. When you can get the rod to achieve its highest position in the block, tighten the longer bolt you installed in the front of the block to hold it in that position, then install the mounting plate and the pump. Tighten the bolt just enough to hold the rod in position, you dont need to reef on it and REMEMBER to remove the longer bolt and reinstall the original when your done !! Sorry for the long winded answer, hope this helps. Oooooops, beat to the punch while typing !!! Better three replies than none.



Good explanation.




Hey Gary - it's true, I've never been accused of giving too short of an answer !! How's that LT1 been treating you ?? Got some of the bugs worked out that you were having ?? My offer still stands to take that troublesome thing off your hands WinkWink



____________________________________
John Sigmund
valkman57@sbcglobal.net
NCRS Member 61302
NW NCRS Chapter Member



Duct tape is the new Black !!
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6/23/15 9:26am - Reply: 'Re: Fuel Pump Replacement Help!'
BobOvette
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Millstone Township, NJ - USA

Vette(s):
1978 Pace Car - L82 with a 4 Speed AM -FM CB radio

Joined: 2/6/2010
Posts: 71
I wish I would had read before I started removing the pump.  I got gas in my eyes, mouth and up my nose.  
I guess its real men's cologne!

I remember next time!!!Thumbs Up


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6/23/15 11:40am - Reply: 'Re: Fuel Pump Replacement Help!'
Adams' Apple Lifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19454
BobOvette said: I wish I would had read before I started removing the pump.  I got gas in my eyes, mouth and up my nose.  
I guess its real men's cologne!

I remember next time!!!Thumbs Up


LOL  LOL  LOL
Not laffin at you, laffin WID you!! btdt....more than onced. Welcome to the club!!! LOL

____________________________________
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)
             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
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6/23/15 3:38pm - Reply: 'Re: Fuel Pump Replacement Help!'
Vman73
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Gig Harbor, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1973 L82 4 Speed Coupe - Very original, well documented driver/survivor. 2016 Bend Regional NCRS Top Flight.

Joined: 10/2/2014
Posts: 362
Hey Bob, sorry about that, in reading your first post I thought you had the fuel line clamped off and the pump out already. As Joel said, welcome to the club, been there done that many times. Not quite sure if I have a preference for the fragrance of regular or premium though, LOL. Just one last note, a small vise grips as suggested works great to clamp off the rubber line, but it's one case where really tight is not a good thing. Those little teeth on a new set of grips can be pretty sharp. Double check your rubber line a couple times after you get it all buttoned up to make sure you don't have a leak or a small seep out of the rubber line - another one of those "been there, done that" on my part a few fuel pumps ago.

____________________________________
John Sigmund
valkman57@sbcglobal.net
NCRS Member 61302
NW NCRS Chapter Member



Duct tape is the new Black !!
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6/23/15 11:22pm - Reply: 'Re: Fuel Pump Replacement Help!'
F4Gary Gold Member
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Grapevine, TX - USA

Vette(s):
1972 LT-1 convertible with factory air.

Joined: 8/26/2006
Posts: 869
Vman73 said:
F4Gary said:
Vman73 said: Bob - the bolt they are referring to is on the right front corner of the block about two inches from the bottom. If your looking down from the passenger side fender, the RH fuel pump bolt you took out is almost pointing right at it. The bolt is all by itself and the only one that looks like its not doing anything, just looks like a bolt screwed into the block. Remove that bolt and install the longer bolt they are referring to to hold the pump push rod in its up while position while reinstalling the pump. When your done make sure you remove the longer bolt and install the original or you will have a very nasty oil leak. If the rod fell down when you removed the pump, either use a piece of wire bent with a hook on the end to snag it and push it up, or I generally remove the fuel pump mounting plate which is held on by the two bolts right below the fuel pump bolts. If you remove the plate, you will need to clean an buy an additional gasket to replace, but the rod will be openly accessible to push back up where it belongs. Also watch out when you remove the plate because the rod will probably fall out. Note which end of the rod was up in the block and which end was out at the pump. Last but not least, the rod and pump are actuated by a lobe on the cam, if you reinstall and the lobe is pushing the rod out, you will have to compress the spring in the fuel pump as your trying to reinstall it. It's much easier to check the lobe position by putting the rod back in and hold while you turn the motor over by HAND with a wrench on the crank pulley. When you can get the rod to achieve its highest position in the block, tighten the longer bolt you installed in the front of the block to hold it in that position, then install the mounting plate and the pump. Tighten the bolt just enough to hold the rod in position, you dont need to reef on it and REMEMBER to remove the longer bolt and reinstall the original when your done !! Sorry for the long winded answer, hope this helps. Oooooops, beat to the punch while typing !!! Better three replies than none.



Good explanation.




Hey Gary - it's true, I've never been accused of giving too short of an answer !! How's that LT1 been treating you ?? Got some of the bugs worked out that you were having ?? My offer still stands to take that troublesome thing off your hands WinkWink


Got it running pretty good now.  $48 grand and it's yours.  Thumbs Up



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11/11/17 2:37pm - Reply: 'Re: Fuel Pump Replacement Help!'
LUVETE
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Fredericksburg, TX - USA

Vette(s):
1981

Joined: 10/10/2017
Posts: 2
Thanks for all the previous tips on changing the C3 fuel pump. I値l try to summarize the entire job the way I found it to be easiest to do on my 1981 L81 350ci. It is not a hard job if you do it right, just tedious.  

1. Jack up the front of the car to lift the tires about 8-10 off the floor, turn the wheels full over to the left, then block up under the front tires and lower the jack until the tires rest onto the blocks.
2. Get at least a 8 length of 3/4 or smaller garden hose and siphon all the gas out of the gas tank.
3. Pop the distributor cap hold downs and carefully bump the engine over by pecking the starter, checking under the cap until the distributor rotor is pointed at the #1 spark plug wire. It doesn稚 have to be exact, just close. (This will position the cam so the pump will be easiest to reinstall.)
4. Remove the two formed rubber fuel hoses from the steel fuel lines coming from the tank.
5. Remove the steel fuel line at the carb coming from the fuel pump. (Hold backup with a wrench on the fuel filter housing then don稚 forget to remove fuel filter housing and replace the paper fuel filter. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE FUEL FILTER HOUSING GASKET)
6. Remove steel fuel line from the fuel pump.
7. Using a long (18) 1/4 drive socket extension and 7/16 socket insert it thru the cutout in the right wheel well adjacent to the fuel pump and remove both fuel pump attach bolts. A 3/8 drive socket will be more difficult to make work but it will.
8. Remove the fuel pump by maneuvering it out underneath the car.
9. Remove the two fuel pump mounting plate bolts and remove the plate being careful to catch the push rod as it will tend to slide out.
10. Remove the short 3/8-16 bolt (that is at the same level as the fuel pump attach bolts but on the front of the engine adjacent to the fuel pump) and replace it with a 3/8-16 x 1-1/4 grip bolt that you will have to provide.
11. Clean and slide the push rod back into its hole (making sure to insert it the same way it came out) all the way in until it bottoms out on the cam and hold it there. Then finger tighten the longer bolt you just installed until it contacts the push rod. FINGER TIGHT ONLY! I used a long socket to hand tighten the bolt.
12. Clean the gasket surfaces on the fuel pump mounting plate and engine block and reinstall the mounting plate with a new gasket.
13. Remove the fitting from the old pump (if there is one) and reinstall in the same orientation on the new pump.
14. Permatex the new gasket onto the fuel pump and let it set up a few minuets. Run both bolts thru the gasket which will hold them in position for installation.
15. Maneuver the fuel pump into position and carefully install the bolts evenly by inserting the long socket wrench extension back thru the wheel well cutout adjacent to the fuel pump. Run the bolts in evenly then torque the bolts.
16. Unscrew the long bolt holding the push rod in place and replace it with the original short bolt. (DON探 FORGET TO DO THIS !!!)
17. Install the steel fuel line to the pump.
18. Install the two formed rubber fuel lines onto the fuel pump then onto the steel fuel lines from the tank. (Use new formed hoses from Eckler痴 and new clamps. Don稚 try to use regular fuel hose, it will crimp, the bends are too tight.) If one of the hoses contacts the car frame, tie-wrap it back to the fuel pump just enough to clear so it doesn稚 rub on the frame.
19. Install the steel fuel line at the carb making sure the fuel filter housing is tightened properly first.
20. Fill the gas tank back up.
21. Start the car and check for leaks. VERY IMPORTANT !!!


|UPDATED|11/11/2017 12:37:01 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
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11/10/17 6:53pm - Reply: 'Re: Fuel Pump Replacement Help!'
73shark
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Overland Park, KS - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Orange Metallic Coupe (orig owner), L82, 4 spd (WR), PS, (A/C & PW (I installed from wrecked 73)), leather, AM/FM Stereo, ran with '65 FI unit earlier & will again some day.

Joined: 7/9/2003
Posts: 394
Another way to keep the pump push rod from sliding out is to put a small dab of the old style (pre-disc brake) wheel bearing grease on the end of the rod and installing 'til it hits the cam.  The grease is sticky enuf to hold it.

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1973 L-82 4 spd

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