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5/22/14 8:13pm - Original Message: 'Where to start?'
Brownoxford
Former Member
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Chapel Hill, NC - USA

Vette(s):
1979 L48 T-Top

Joined: 5/5/2014
Posts: 15
I've just gotten my 1979 C3 up on jack stands and the hood is off. Currently, the engine will crank but not start. I'm very new to this, and Looking for any advice on where to start troubleshooting.

Pretty sure no gas is getting into the carb, but not sure how to confirm. Also, I took a couple photos of things that looked obviously broken:








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5/22/14 9:17pm - Reply: 'Re: Where to start?'
ebo Lifetime Member
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Holland Patent, NY - USA

Vette(s):
#1 *1980 White, Red interior 14,000 mile #2 *1980 Red, Oyster interior 93,000 miles Resto project car, rebuilt to 383 stroker

Joined: 6/3/2008
Posts: 4395
Brownoxford said: I've just gotten my 1979 C3 up on jack stands and the hood is off. Currently, the engine will crank but not start. I'm very new to this, and Looking for any advice on where to start troubleshooting.

Pretty sure no gas is getting into the carb, but not sure how to confirm. Also, I took a couple photos of things that looked obviously broken:








Well first off the most serious is those Fully Exposed Wires look to be actually burnt also right at that fuseable link. The missing belt may be because the AC pump is frozen does it turn? The wires of course need to be put back on the plugs check the firing order to make sure they are correct.  The tin pipe is no concern and can get at local auto store.
Joel Adams (Adams Apple) will be giving you some wiring schematics and a list of what to check for current.
Nothing to major here but it may be a PITA project. You have come to the right place this group will get it running just have patience.
ebo  


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5/22/14 9:24pm - Reply: 'Re: Where to start?'
F4Gary Gold Member
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Grapevine, TX - USA

Vette(s):
1972 LT-1 convertible with factory air.

Joined: 8/26/2006
Posts: 862
Drizzle a thimble full of gas in the carb and see it she'll fire...after you fix the wires.

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5/22/14 11:08pm - Reply: 'Re: Where to start?'
Adams' Apple Lifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19449
SonofabCensoredh....I just posted a long winded post, and clicked the frikkin "BACK' button instead of "Post"...
Too late, and too tired to type it all out again.
You can view or download the wiring diagrams from My web page.

I'll try to re post tomorrow....after my nap.....

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
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5/25/14 5:15pm - Reply: 'Re: Where to start?'
Brownoxford
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Chapel Hill, NC - USA

Vette(s):
1979 L48 T-Top

Joined: 5/5/2014
Posts: 15
Thanks for all the suggestions!

I've checked the plugs and they appear to be connected properly (one was not connected at all, fixed that).

I also noticed a pretty badly blown fuse, probably the result of shorts from the other issues already mentioned. Can anyone tell me what it's for (label is INST LPS, 7.5A). Hopefully won't need to replace the whole block...



Regarding the bare wires, I think I'm looking at the starter solenoid as depicted here, can anyone confirm? Chilton suggests removing the wires from the solenoid before removing the starter, but I'll be damned if I can see down there. Any issues with pulling the starter first and then detaching the wires from the solenoid?




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5/25/14 5:34pm - Reply: 'Re: Where to start?'
F4Gary Gold Member
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Grapevine, TX - USA

Vette(s):
1972 LT-1 convertible with factory air.

Joined: 8/26/2006
Posts: 862
Instrument lamps.

You have to get under the car to remove the starter and all the terminals are right there.


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5/25/14 7:38pm - Reply: 'Re: Where to start?'
Adams' Apple Lifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19449
Yup...Fuse is for Instrument panel lights.THe way it is melted suggests to me that the fuse is an off-shore fuse that is NOT properly rated....it should have popped long before melting like that, considering it is only supposed to be a 7.5 amp fuse.

You will have to get under the car to get to the starter, or the wiring. Be SURE to disconnect the battery cable before attempting to remove the wiring at the starter. The diagram shows the fuse links as the square boxes. Thumbs Up

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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)
             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
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5/26/14 12:15pm - Reply: 'Re: Where to start?'
JohnRR
Standard Member
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Joined: 2/22/2011
Posts: 110
First off, welcome!

As to getting started, I suggest that you start slowly.  Prioritize projects that will get your Vette out of the garage.   Safety is the first priority!  These cars are old, and new to you so you have to learn all that is wrong with it and how to fix it.  If you jack it up, always use 1 or 2 jack stands to safely support the weight.  Oh yeah, don't jack it up by lifting the curved frame section under the front of the engine; it's weak.

The electrical system looks like it needs attention so you can get the engine started.  If you need to replace any of the wiring harnesses, then I strongly suggest you buy the two OhSoEz diagrams from Dr. Rebuild.  There are lots of Corvette part suppliers on the internet.  Do a Google search and read, read, read!!!

The Brakes:  Now that the engine is running, and before you leave the garage, make sure you can stop.  Check the master cylinder for dirty brake fluid.  Check the calipers for leaks and sticky pistons.  Look for rusted, wet or leaking brake lines.  Replace the flexible, rubber brake lines at each wheel.  Bleed the whole system.  PB Blaster is a good penetrating oil to help with the disassembly of all the corroded fasteners.

Steering:  Check the steering linkage for looseness.  Check the suspension parts like the rubber bushings, and ball joints. 

Replace every rubber hose.  Especially the fuel lines.  There are several at the gas tank.  2 or 3 at the fuel pump, and possibly one at the carb. 

Replace all the vacuum hoses.  There are several good suppliers for this. I like Dr. Rebuild because they have good diagrams and instructions.

This ought to keep you busy for a little while.  You'll get lots of help from this forum.

Enjoy the journey!
John








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1973 BB 4-Speed Coupe Project Car
2009 Z06 Mostly Stock
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5/27/14 8:39pm - Reply: 'Re: Where to start?'
Brownoxford
Former Member
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Chapel Hill, NC - USA

Vette(s):
1979 L48 T-Top

Joined: 5/5/2014
Posts: 15
Thanks for the advice John, that will certainly keep me busy. Thanks also for the tip about jacking using the curved frame section, that's exactly what I did, won't do it again.

Is there another point suitable for lifting the entire front-end? Seems a bit twisty to do one side at a time, which I did with the rear. Is it bad to be up on four jackstands?

I was able to remove the starter and solenoid today, which gave me better access to remove the burned out harness from the solenoid. I ran into an issue with the ground wire though, could not get the bolt off so I just cut the ground (?) off of the harness with lots of lead in case I need to splice on the new one. Any tips on removing this bolt?






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5/27/14 10:54pm - Reply: 'Re: Where to start?'
Adams' Apple Lifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19449
Righty tighty, lefty loosey.....LOL

If you can't break it loose with a decent boxed end wrench, you may need an impact....tho it shouldn't be that tight to start with. A 9/16" wobble socket, long extension, and good ratchet will also work. Everything is just packed in so tight in the area, it's hard to get a good grip to turn a wrench....Unhappy


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Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)
             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
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5/27/14 11:24pm - Reply: 'Re: Where to start?'
JohnRR
Standard Member
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Joined: 2/22/2011
Posts: 110
Brownoxford said: Thanks for the advice John, that will certainly keep me busy. Thanks also for the tip about jacking using the curved frame section, that's exactly what I did, won't do it again.

Is there another point suitable for lifting the entire front-end? Seems a bit twisty to do one side at a time, which I did with the rear. Is it bad to be up on four jackstands?

I was able to remove the starter and solenoid today, which gave me better access to remove the burned out harness from the solenoid. I ran into an issue with the ground wire though, could not get the bolt off so I just cut the ground (?) off of the harness with lots of lead in case I need to splice on the new one. Any tips on removing this bolt?





First of all, spray some PB Blaster on it and let it soak for a couple of hours.  See if you can find a 6-point socket and try that. If that rounded off bolt head is a 9/16 (.562), then you might be able to use a 14mm (.551) socket and tapping it over the bolt head.  Then, use an impact driver to crack it loose.  You can get inexpensive electric impact drivers at Harbor Freight.  Try a couple seconds of left-hand, then some right-hand, then back to left-hand impact until it comes loose.  If that fails, you can get some special sockets at Sears that look like an EZ-Out on the inside.  They bite into the hex and that might get a good bite on it and allow you to crack it loose.

As for lifting the entire front end with one floor jack, I don't think that is possible, or advisable.  Yes, these frames are a bit flexible compared to modern frames.  I had mine up on four jack stands for 4 years.  They were placed on the frame between the wheels.  I just kept them separated as far apart as possible, but the frame still drooped.  I couldn't close the passenger side door because of the frame flex.  Also, a big block up front only makes it worse.  When I was finished working with the suspension, I kept it up in the air by letting the tires sit on 4 Rhino Ramps.

John








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1973 BB 4-Speed Coupe Project Car
2009 Z06 Mostly Stock
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