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6/15/12 2:19am - Original Message: '2nd Dumb Question of the Night'
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 830
What style of lug nuts are recommended for OEM rally's?  I have modern style chrome "conical" nuts (not acorns, though) and I was told by a Corvette mechanic some time ago that those are not recommended as he claimed they'd loosen.  Is that correct?  I've never had any loosening issues.  Should I really be using flat lug nuts?  

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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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6/15/12 7:13am - Reply: 'Re: 2nd Dumb Question of the Night'
crossfire1982
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Cramerton, NC - USA

Vette(s):
black 1982 coupe slate gray interior, 350 crossfire, 1985 fuel pump, Steeroids R&P conversion

Joined: 8/22/2006
Posts: 1094
Someone else may have a different opinion but I believe the conical nuts are for the steel rally wheels.  The flat nuts are for the OEM aluminum wheels but even they have a conical section below the flat which engages the hole in the aluminum wheel.
 
Steel rally   lug nut:


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6/15/12 7:52am - Reply: 'Re: 2nd Dumb Question of the Night'
manchestershark Lifetime Member
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Equinunk, PA - USA

Vette(s):
1972 conv, 4-speed, 350, 200hp, numbers match, rally wheels, war bonnett yellow w/white top. good condition, nice driver.

Joined: 10/31/2007
Posts: 1895
TRUE!  YES, the correct fasteners are O.E.M. style. Same as for ANY steel wheel on G.M.

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6/15/12 9:03am - Reply: 'Re: 2nd Dumb Question of the Night'
Adams' Apple Lifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19449
Ya..the steel rallies need a normal, tapered nut. All you need to do is see that the taper on the nut fits perfectly into the taper of the wheel holes. Some nuts/wheels have a different angle on the taper, so you do need to watch that, but any GM steel wheel of the era will use the same nuts.
Aluminuminum wheels are obviously different, and use different nuts than steel rims.


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6/15/12 10:40am - Reply: 'Re: 2nd Dumb Question of the Night'
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 830
Thanks guys - exactly what I thought.  Don't know what that guy was talking about and a major tire store sold me those nuts specifically for those wheels.  But he's the same guy that told me the front rotors MUST be re-riveted or bolted to the hubs.  So I guess I'll take what he says with a few grains of salt from now on.  

____________________________________

 

1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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6/16/12 11:10am - Reply: 'Re: 2nd Dumb Question of the Night'
corvette440hp Lifetime Member
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Joined: 7/2/2006
Posts: 8205
Dave, there aren't any dumb questions.

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6/17/12 1:35am - Reply: 'Re: 2nd Dumb Question of the Night'
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 830
I agree - at least not when it comes to C3's!

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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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