Vette(s): 1978 Silver Anniversary Corvette-White/Red
Good morning fellow C3ers,
Having a break squeal issue on my 78SA. In short I had a complete brake job done about 300 miles ago and just had them checked when I was having other work done(not at the same place). Brakes checked out "good" but still am having a squeal problem. One fix from a previous post said to drive in reverse carefully and apply the brakes very hard but not to lock them up which is supposed to remove the glaze buildup on the pads. Another fix said to apply some anti-squeek material on the pads.
My question is what is the proceedure for the application of the anti-squeek material? As in how is that proceedure actually done????
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Using a liquid/paste type of "Anti-Skweek" compound on '65-'82 Corvette is not really a good idea, tho a lot of folks do it. You really don't want to "glue" the pads to the pistons in these calipers...it increases the likelihood of the pistons pumping air back into the calipers, which is a major issue to start with. It would be better to find some anti-squeal shims to use between the pads and the pistons. I'm sure one of the Corvette brake suppliers(Vette Brakes & Products or Stainless Steel Brakes) would have them, if the local parts house doesn't. I've never used them on a Corvette, so I couldn't say for sure if they work as well as they do on "normal" cars.
If the pads are squealing, there is a problem with either the pad material, or the surface finish of the rotors. Were the rotors turned when the brakes were done originally? What type/compound pads are you using? Organic, semi-metallic, ceramic, etc? A brake squeal is basically just a vibration. Loose fasteners can cause it, as can pads that are loose in the caliper, or pads that have not had the proper high temp grease used on the sliding areas between the pads and the caliper guides.
IF the pads are severely glazed, you can help remedy this by removing the pads, and lightly sanding longways on them with some 80 grit paper. Another trick that I use is to cut(I use a hacksaw) angled grooves in the pads, at about a 45 degree angle, angled front to rear, and cut about 1/2 the pad thickness. About 3 grooves per pad is usually enough to accomplish the mission, which is to give the gasses created when using the brakes a place to escape, as well as giving the brake dust created a place to escape, instead of building up on the pad and rotor surfaces. You can also grind/file a small bevel on both the leading and trailing edges of the pads. Most new pads already have this feature, but not all do. This gives the pads a "soft" corner on the rotors, instead of a flat, cutting edge. hth
____________________________________ Joel Adams C3VR Lifetime Member #56 My Link
Vette(s): 1969 daytona conv. all original 350 350 380 4 sp w/air..and hard top
Yup Joel I like the cut the brake pad that works good..wanted to add that I machined the rotors on mine with a Pro Cut machine..if you didn't get them cut with the new pads this machine is really nice..it cuts them on the car and actually trues the rotor to the spindle on the rear and works just as good on the front..I use it everyday and love it..
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