Vette(s): black 1982 coupe slate gray interior, 350 crossfire, 1985 fuel pump, Steeroids R&P conversion
Unless you are going to race the car plain old organic pads are as good as the high dollar ones, thats what the car came with. They are available at any local parts store. As for rotors just try to get a quality rotor, not the cheapest thing you can find. There is nothing magical about the rotors sold at corvette supplies but their quality will probably be good. The fact that a rotor is new doesent mean its going to run true. If you are unfamiliar with corvette brakes and if the rotors on the car are original then you are in for an experience. The rivets on the front rotors will need to be drilled out. You cannot remove the rotor from the hub unless they are drilled out. Do a search on rivets and you will find several good brake threads on this forum. Many guys just decide to buy rotor / hub assemblies instead of mess with the rivets.
Vette(s): 1969 convertible L71 427/435 4-speed black interior
I realize you don't want to spend money unnecessarily, but brakes are simply too important to scrimp on. You don't need to spend a lot for quality brake parts but you do have to be somewhat selective.
Buying organic pads, like already said...are fine. You want original equipment quality or better. Racing compound pad material is really unsuitable for street driving anyway...they work best when heated up and you don't require that for normal driving.
Rotors...check around for pricing. Check with NAPA and use what they sell as a basis for comparison. Many aftermarket suppliers sell rotors made offshore from vendors whose quality control is indifferent at best.
Most resellers like Auto Zone, Advance Auto and Pep Boys stock or can get parts from suppliers like Raybestos and other quality manufacturers. Get on their websites and see if they have any coupons to download and use. I regularly get Pep Boys coupons for 10-15% off purchases and save them until needed. There's lots of ways to save money on quality parts.
Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, c o c k y and in general a malcontent.
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I recently did my first brake job on any car. Using the information and help form the folks here, I was able to pull it off the first time. Drilling out the rivets was the most difficult for me mostly because I did not have a drill press. I was able to do the whole job with great results. If you don't have speed bleeders, you should consider getting them. It makes bleeding the brakes almost fun one person job.
I have an AC-Delco store in town. I also have a business so, I was able to get the jobber discount. I did not get the lowest priced or the highest priced. I also replaced the front inner and outer wheel bearings while I had everything apart. I think it was total about $50 more.
I fixed things for a living for many decades. It just was not cars. If you have access to a drill press this job will go a lot smoother but, it is not absolutely necessary. My driver side caliper had a frozen cylinder so, I ended up replacing both rotors and calipers. I just looked into my back breaks and found there are two bleeder valves on the rear breaks. I also just added speed bleeders to the rear.
It really is great to have a firm pedal and excellent stopping power again.
Good luck. There are excellent pictures and how tos on this site. The folks here have loads of experience with these cars.
Welcome to the group.
Nobody ever waves when I'm driving the Explorer.
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
As has been noted, pads do not have to be high priced. These days, even good semi-metallics are well within reach...around $20 or so for an axle set. Rotors can also be local auto parts house sourced without breaking the bank. AutoZone, Pep Gurls, can give you a competitive price on replacement rotors alone, or rotors w/hubs. I personally prefer to go rotors/hubs, but I'm lazy...I don't wanna do all the drilling and such. This is one area that you really do not want to go the cheapest route. Name brand pads(Raybestos, Wagner) are priced right...no need to fool with anything else. Good luck with the project, too! We're always just a click and a tap away for help/info!
____________________________________ Joel Adams C3VR Lifetime Member #56 My Link
Vette(s): 1969 daytona conv. all original 350 350 380 4 sp w/air..and hard top
I just wanted to ask..why do you need rotors?? Are they ground up..rusted real bad or just to thin..really if they will work and be safe why mess with them..they can be a project to get right..but it can be done..I think more than one person on here has proven that...have you checked the calipers for leaks yet..that's another project too..
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