Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
On manual steering like that, you CAN remove the cotter pin, and tighten that end plug some. It is meant to have a wee bit of play in there, and you don't wanna get it so tight that there is none at all. Iffin I remember cerecktly, that joint is spring loaded. Getting it too tight will wear the thing out really quick. Be sure to skwert some grease in the joint first too. It would really be a good idea, if you have the time, to completely remove the ball-joint from the link, and check both of the ball seats for excessive wear. That involves removing the cotter pin, and screwing out the plug. The ball and link will separate, and you can get a look at the seats.
|UPDATED|9/24/2011 4:02:57 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
____________________________________ Joel Adams C3VR Lifetime Member #56 My Link
Vette(s): 1969 daytona conv. all original 350 350 380 4 sp w/air..and hard top
I figured I could rebuild that joint this winter in an off week...it has enough play in it that it makes noise when I turn..the ol clunk..its done it all this year..I heard it a few times last year but didn't think much of it..I don't know why or for what I bought it for but I have the bladed socket to fit that end..I think I will pop the cover out and repack it with grease and reset it..it sounds like it sets up like a pushrod..so I may pop off the joint from the steering box so I can give it a feel when I tighten it up..might have to look for a rebuild kit of sorts someday..really didn't have any luck finding one so far.
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