Vette(s): 1975 convertible,with the hard top and power streering.it a 350 L48 with auto trans. the color is light blue.
Well you know that part that everyone says dosen't go bad...the proportional valve.I sparyed it to the point the titanic could sail on it.It didn'tbreak lose.Not any of the brake line would move,even after I put a little heat on them.So my next plan of attack is to replace all the brake line on the front of the car.However can anyone give me any advice on changing the line that runs from the (p)block to the right wheel the other are pretty much out on the open after you remove the master cylinder.Hmm,maybe I should buy a boat naw,You know the thing that really ticked me off about today's events,was paying for the tow truck to bring my car to and from the auto hobby shop on base.Thanks for listening to my venting it felt good to get it off my chest.But seriously if anyone ever changed that one brake line any advice would be apecated.
After being cinched down for so many years, your lucky if those lines will break loose without damage. After soaking those threads repeatedly, flaring (tubing) wrenches are the only way to start on those. Some of mine still failed to break loose and I had to resort to vise grips . I was lucky and only destroyed one line and can you believe it, it was the drivers front (the shortest and easiest to replace ). The passenger side routes forward on the frame and under the fan shroud and maybe removal of the old one is the only sure way to tell how much of a "PITA" reinstalling a new one would be. Before doing so I would check around to see what is available and if there might be a more user friendly aftermarket product that is somewhat flexible. Reconnecting those lines to the proportioning valve is a trying experience so take your time and be patient. Angle of approach is key to avoid cross threading. I'm sure you know all this already since you had the courage to go for it, but it's all I had to offer. Good luck Rick.
Jimmy B. Just can't wait to get on the road again.
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