Just bought a 73 and I want to do a lot of the suspension work myself. I am using a floor jack, any tips? Want to put on 4 stanchions or jacks. What is the safest place to place jack to lift the rear? The front was a no brainer but I am used to a solid axle in the rear. I also have access to a garage with a lift but it is not real close to home.
Vette(s): 70 LT1 coupe, 69 350 HP coupe, 69 390HP 427 coupe, 71 LS5 convert, 85 coupe, 93 coupe
I don't lift front, then rear. I lift one side, then the other. I put the stands just in front of the rear wheels, and behind the front wheels where the frame levels out. That puts the wheight close to where it normally is, and helps reduce flexing.
Vette(s): Coupe 74 - 454
Drive it like you stole it!
As said above; you have to use jack stands; not just the jack.
And before you lift; open the doors, the t-tops and the hood. For the doors; leave them in between; as if it wasn't closed properly. This way, the will not swing open when you lift the car at an angle and the panels won't touch each other from the slight distortion created when lifting the car. If you don't open them; you risk damaging (read cracking) some of the fiberglass panels and/or getting your doors out of their current alignment.
Exactly what I was looking for, great info. One of the guys at work pre warned me about doors but not T-Tops or hood. Everything is out of line right now, doors sag hood is to the left. I need to research door and alignment. Thanks all.
Vette(s): SOLD - "The Toy" - 1970 Convertible SOLD - "The Beast" - 1990 ZR-1 (#682) "BLKBRRD" - 1978 Trans Am, 400ci/285hp, 4 spd, Black w/black interior, Hurst t-tops
This lifting technique was outlined on the ZR-1NetRegistry site: Use two floor jacks, one on either side, to lift the front first and set the jack stands in place. Then move the jacks, lift the rear and set the jack stands in place. The process goes quicker with a helper working the 2nd jack but can certainly be done alone. Reverse the process to put the car back down on the ground.
I lift all three cars ("The Toy", "The Beast", & "BIGBRRD") front first using the front cross member, set the jack stands, then lift the rear using the differential and set the jack stands. No problems to date using that method.
____________________________________ Jim Olson "The Toys"...!!! Save the Wave!
Vette(s): 1981 Great White Shark. Red Interior, 350/190hp. PS, PB (SS), A/C CC, T-Tops, Going to remain as Stock as possible. Served three years in Active Duty Army, then Retired Air Force after 34 years! Badger State Vetts Car Club. 175,000 Original miles!!
Nice pic Joel!! I called you last week left message on cell.
Like Larry, I have always used the side to side method. I guess I have been extremely lucky over the years because I have never removed the tops or opened the doors. My seams look fine. Prehaps this thread will clear up the process. Thanks,
____________________________________ C3VR Lifetime Member #114
I lift all three cars ("The Toy", "The Beast", & "BIGBRRD") front first using the front cross member, set the jack stands, then lift the rear using the differential and set the jack stands. No problems to date using that method.[/QUOTE]
I do the same.. only thing i would add is put a block of 2/6 of your floor jack so as not to dent up the front crosmember.
I have never gotten around to buying wheel dollys so when i need to move the car around the shop I just use floor jacks.
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