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1/28/12 10:18am - Original Message: 'front brake rotors'
78Frank
Former Member
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Portsmouth, VA - USA

Vette(s):
1978 coupe in need of total restoration/modification

Joined: 10/2/2011
Posts: 13
Hi all. Ive got a 78 that was sitting for 15 yrs. when I purchased it. The front brake rotors are rusted and pitted so bad they can not be turned and stay within specs. To replace rotors ive drilled out rivets. My 78 GM service manual states "When reassembling the disc to the hub,it is not necessary to rivet the two assemblies.The lug nuts will supply ample retention." Ive read on other sites about rerivetting rotor back on hub ,shimming etc. I guess my question is why go thru all the work of installing new rivets? Any responce to this?

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1/28/12 12:16pm - Reply: 'Re: front brake rotors'
Adams' Apple Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19449
There is no need to re-rivet or bolt the rotor back to the hub. In fact, there's really no need to drill the rivets anyway. Replacing JUST the rotor is certainly cheaper than getting a rotor/hub assembly, but...how much time does it take to drill the rivets out, and what is your time worth?
Anyway...the rotors will be fine without re-riveting them. Just make sure the hub surface, and the backside of the rotors are clean before installing the new rotors. You may have some run-out, you may not. You might want to check it if you have the equipment to do so. If not, you should still be good to go. If you feel any pedal pulsation when applying the brakes, then you have too much runout.
hth


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Joel Adams
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2/13/12 1:34am - Reply: 'Re: front brake rotors'
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 830
I asked the same question in this post:


Lot of debate and a lot of good info.  I think there's general consensus that Joel is 100% correct - no need to re-rivet.  Also lots of good info about shimming.  Seems that no matter how perfectly true the new rotors are, the manufacturing quality of the original hubs can cause runout issues. Something to be said for buying the hubs and rotors as matched sets, but although I don't have much time, I have even less money, so I did it the hard way....

Good luck!


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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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