I could use a little advice on front wheel bearing replacement.
I bought a 75 last month - my very first vette and I've started working on the tired front suspension. Yesterday I replaced the driver's side front bearings with timkins, using mobil 1 synth grease. The spindle arm looked very clean and smooth. I torqued the spindle nut to 12 ft-lbs then backed it off 1 flat and inserted the pin, just like the manual says. I took it for a ride this morning and I'm hearing a "dub-dub-dub" sound when I take right turns. Wondering what those of you who have done this before would recommend as far as diagnosis and treatment.
Is this my bearings, the grease or is it the rotor rubbing the pads? It's silent going straight and taking left turns and braking is smooth. Problem is, I'm not a NASCAR driver and have to take quite a few rights.
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Could be the pads draggin, but the brake calipers on these cars are stationary, so if the pads are making the noise, the rotor has to be loose, or warped. I would raise the front back up, and grab the tire at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock, and see if there is any play. If there is, tighten the nut up until the play is gone, then back off JUST enough to get the cotter pin in one of the holes. Drive and see how that works. i don't think I've ever actually torqued the spindle nuts to any specific value myself. I just tighten it until the play is out, and back it off just enough to get the pin back in a hole. Installing new bearings/races can cause stuff like this, as sometimes, the races don't get fully seated properly, and once driven, the pop into position, and now you have a wee bit more play than you had originally. It's worth a shot. Make sure the rotors don't have anything on them, also, like debris, of grease.
____________________________________ Joel Adams C3VR Lifetime Member #56 My Link
It has been forever , but do this.. With tire on tighten nut , spin tire to make sure all is well then back it off , if I remember right this will make sure the bearings are seated in the races in the rotor. Then install dust cover tighten wheel and install center cap if you have one
1980 , ZZ430 , 3.92 rear , 700R4 2400 stall NEW EZ EFI
Adams' Apple said:Could ............ Installing new bearings/races can cause stuff like this, as sometimes, the races don't get fully seated properly, and once driven, the pop into position, and now you have a wee bit more play than you had originally. It's worth a shot..........
It happened to me --I ran into this same problem last year, replaced races, seals and bearings - got it back together and drove it a few times with no problems. Jacked up the driver's side to do something else and noticed the front wheel was lose. Not sure why, but pulled the dust cap, cotter pin and snugged it down again. Will check both again when getting it ready for the season. Good luck, hope it's a simple fix.
Same thing for me as for Willis. Followed the manual exactly when I installed new Timkins, and it was nice and snug, had the car up in the air a few weeks later and was a little freaked that I noticed a wobble - both sides. Tightened them up a smidge and they've been good since.
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: email@example.com, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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