When I was doing my front suspension I must have miscounted the number of turns on the tie rod ends for the left side. With the steering wheel on dead center the right side wheel looks about right, but the left side is way toed out. My first stop after I get this bucket on the road will be to the alignment shop, but I don't think it's drive-able at all. I thought this would be an easy one - just loosen the clamps on the rod and put a pipe wrench on it. It won't budge. I do remember putting them in and one side for some reason the ends went in real hard - this must be that side. Any thoughts? My plan is to break the tie rod loose on both ends and turn the ends out using my vise, but I was wondering if there is an easier way or if there was any other advice concerning my "prelim" alignment. I'll use my pickle fork to break 'em loose if I have to, but I don't want to screw up the boots on the ends.
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1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19511
Slide the clamps back as far as you can. Soak the ends with WD40(or whatever you like) thru the slots in the tie-rod bar. You may need to spread the bars some...put a thick screwdriver, or chisel into the slots, and tap it in a little, then see if that helps.
Oh yeah...don't spend too much time trying to get the toe done just right...yet. Without the engine/trans in there, the suspension will look all funky anyway. You need that weight on the front to get it close.
|UPDATED|6/18/2012 4:31:12 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
____________________________________ Joel Adams C3VR Lifetime Member #56 My Link
Your suggestion worked like a charm, Joel, as usual. I forgot that I spread the slots apart a little when I was taking the old ends out. And yep, I know it's not worth it to spend a lot of time on a makeshift alignment, especially with it on jack stands and no motor, but that one wheel was pretty bad. I think it would have been squealing if I had tried to drive it. I ended up adjusting both tie rods so that there is just a tiny bit of noticeable toe-in with the steering gear on center. It will probably change when it's on the ground with the motor in, but at least they're somewhat equal. I didn't mess with the shims - I'll let the professionals handle that.
And my steering wheel may be one or two splines off center - I'll adjust last when everything else is done if needed.
I think I now have a somewhat functional suspension, brakes and steering - who hoo! Just need one more small thing like a drive train.
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1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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