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4/5/13 1:05am - Original Message: 'Rear rotor removal'
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 830
Should they just pop off once the rivets are removed?  I had my rear wheel bearings replaced about five years ago so the rotors have been removed at one time, but it's on there rock solid after I pulled the caliper.  Do I have to back off the parking brake shoes a little to release it?  I should say that's why the rotor needs to come off: there is an issue with the p-brake making a squeal while reversing (no noise going forward, tho)  so I need to troubleshoot.  

If I do have to adjust the star wheel, how do I know which way to turn it?  Seems like I've had troubles with that in the past....


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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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4/5/13 6:19am - Reply: 'Re: Rear rotor removal'
crossfire1982
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Cramerton, NC - USA

Vette(s):
black 1982 coupe slate gray interior, 350 crossfire, 1985 fuel pump, Steeroids R&P conversion

Joined: 8/22/2006
Posts: 1094
Does it move at all?  If it moves a little then refuses to come off its probably the e-brake shoes.  If it refuses to budge at all and its been off before, its probably just "welded" itself to the hub.  If thats the case, try a rubber dead blow hammer applied with authority but not brutality to the face of the rotor, see if that will break it loose.  Id have to look at the manual to see which way the star wheel goes to loosen, its been a while since I adjusted mine.

|UPDATED|4/5/2013 3:19:19 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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4/5/13 7:33am - Reply: 'Re: Rear rotor removal'
Adams' Apple Lifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19449
Ya...you should be able to get some kind of wiggle out of it, unless it has "bonded" itself back to the hub. Even if the p-brake is holding a little tension on it, it should at least move. I agree that a few well placed love taps with a soft mallet should free it up. Of course, make sure the p-brake handle is fully released, too.
As far as the adjuster...I can't say for sure, either...could be either way. Twist on it one direction, and see if it gets hard to turn. If it do, then go the other way....LOL  Those dang things can be installed either way, or swapped from side/side, so I never really know which way to turn it.


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4/6/13 10:16pm - Reply: 'Re: Rear rotor removal'
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 830
Got both rotors off - you guys were right a few whacks and they popped loose.  Had to wiggle them off the p-brake shoes after that, but they came off.  Turns out my p-brake problem was a busted spring - the one that has two sets of coils on the same spring.  I could just replace the springs on that side....but, while I'm here...................looks like I'll be doing a full p-brake job.  
Can't wait -- I've seen many posts here from folks having a hard time getting them back together.  Hopefully it goes OK.  

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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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4/6/13 10:42pm - Reply: 'Re: Rear rotor removal'
F4Gary Gold Member
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Grapevine, TX - USA

Vette(s):
1972 LT-1 convertible with factory air.

Joined: 8/26/2006
Posts: 862
Get some dental floss for the brake shoe retaining springs.  Use it to hold the shaft while you compress and rotate the spring.  You can't hold it from behind.

You're welcome. Beer


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4/6/13 11:56pm - Reply: 'Re: Rear rotor removal'
daveo76
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Vancouver, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Joined: 8/25/2005
Posts: 830
Thanks for the advice, I'll try that.  I noticed that some of the catalogs have a special tool specifically for doing these systems - do I need to buy that?  

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1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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4/7/13 8:28am - Reply: 'Re: Rear rotor removal'
crossfire1982
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Cramerton, NC - USA

Vette(s):
black 1982 coupe slate gray interior, 350 crossfire, 1985 fuel pump, Steeroids R&P conversion

Joined: 8/22/2006
Posts: 1094
The dental floss trick to tie the springs while you get them on the pins works, it will take a long thin blade to cut the floss once the caps are on and locked by turning the pins.  One of those break-off blade razor knives works.  The screwdriver tool with the slot cut in the side of the blade works well for connecting the springs and was money well spent for me but something could probably be homebrewed that would work as well.  A pair of long thin forceps is handy to have as well as needle nose pliers.
 
Do all the research you can before you start and just accept the fact that you are going to wonder why you started this project before you get it finished; its kinda like buiding a ship in a bottle.  Blue language and cooling off periods were frequent when I did this job but it can be done with patience.


|UPDATED|4/7/2013 5:28:25 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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