It 's probably for all the reasons you mentioned. Everyones different. It's what you plan to do with your car, restore to orginal, race, street, travel etc. I use mine to travel and keep it mechanical sound with part store parts. I replaced my calipers from the local parts store when I got the car . They are reasonably priced and usually carry a warranty. Out of the last three cars I put back on the road only had to take back one caliper. I use to rebuild mine just for the fun but fun for me now is stopping by the donut shop on the way to buy the calipers. Not as messy. Some of the horse power guys and restorers will probably chime in to help you out . Happy vetting..
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
It depends on your mechanical abilities, finances, and how bad the calipers/pistons are to start with. Most reman calipers are sleeved with stainless steel sleeves that will last much longer without the corrosion that plagues stock calipers. Rebuilding calipers is not a particularly hard job, and the parts are available. The main issue is the corrosion...how bad is it, and can it be cleaned well enough for the caliper to be safely used. Corrosion on the pistons is also a major deal. Best choice, if your calipers are build-able, is to go with new pistons with o-rings, instead of the lip seal type. The o-ring pistons practically eliminate the air pump phenomenon of the lip seal pistons, which eventually suck air into the brake system. In the end, it comes down to $$$, or your ability to properly rebuild your originals. If you plan on having the car judged NCRS/Bloomington, it's best to retain the original calipers. You can have your originals sleeved, and have the best of both worlds...original, and lasting.
____________________________________ Joel Adams C3VR Lifetime Member #56 My Link
Vette(s): 1969 convertible L71 427/435 4-speed black interior
The reason most repair places replace calipers is that it's faster, more profitable, and puts the primary liability on the parts supplier an rebuilder. For a repair center to rebuild the caliper themselves places all legal liability on them.
It's just another sign there are few mechanics left...they've been replaced by parts changers.
Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, c o c k y and in general a malcontent.
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I rebuilt my fronts on my own, it's not too bad of a job. I took them off when I noticed they were leaking and then took them apart. I fortunately found that they had already been sleeved with stainless liners - if they hadn't I might have gone a different route.
1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: firstname.lastname@example.org, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
If you have a little money to spend, Wilwood has a lightweight caliper that is a direct replacement for the heavy factory slugs. I noticed just how heavy the rear suspension is when I disconnected the spring and shocks. I bet that swing arm assembly weighs over 50 lbs, plus the rotor and wheel!
I'm waiting for the aftermarket to offer a lightweight aluminum front knuckle with a modern sealed wheel bearing.
1973 BB 4-Speed Coupe Project Car
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