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8/25/15 8:28am - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Redwoman Gold Member
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Bellingham, MA - USA

Vette(s):
1980 loaded red on red. 68,000 original miles. Second owner. Well documented with all original paperwork. NCRS Founders Award 9/27/14. NCRS Top Flight 10/12/14.

Joined: 6/23/2014
Posts: 171
Game of thrones! OMG! Before Game of thrones I never watched a complete movie, I always fall asleep! It was a game of thrones marathon. My wife and I watched all weekend and every night until we watched all of them. Then we watched them a second time because things that were said in episodes one are related to something in episode three. Watching a second time you pick up on a lot of things you missed the first time. Then we watched them a third time. Back to the leak. Like Joel said fuel pump weep hole. That is the exact location of the drip on the video. When you change fuel pump before you unbolt it from block there is a short bolt on front of block you take out and put in a longer bolt. It holds the rod in place that goes from pump to inside block. Make sure you put the short bolt back in to release rod or you will cook the motor. Check with Joel maybe he can send a pic of the bolt or explain it more detailed than I did. Nice job on air cleaner! Good luck!,

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8/29/15 8:13pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Jasond56
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Kenosha, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Corvette Stingray Coupe VIN 1Z37J3S418986 350 L-48 Automatic T-Tops St. Louis Assembly, 18,986th car built in 1973, Paint = 976 Mille Miglia Red, Interior = 425 Dark Red Vinyl (Ox Blood)

Joined: 5/7/2014
Posts: 154
Ok guys!  FINALLY TRACKED THAT LEAK DOWN!!!  Very excited I was able to reproduce the original conditions.  Car has not been run in over a week.  Fired her up, revved her for a bit and presto!

I think it's definitely water pump (or something in that immediate area).

It's not upper rad hose as I ran my finger around the lip and it's dry.  In video 4 you can see upper rad joining water pump and it's dry.

Below are links to 4 videos.

Video 1: The original video I posted - https://goo.gl/photos/kt8AM8eXzpNCUpGr5

Video 2: Car ON video taken from above, passenger side - https://goo.gl/photos/KzQXKqfMxb7FFr3J6

Video 3: Car OFF video taken from above, passenger side - https://goo.gl/photos/47mR4NJLDeJBsTCv9

Video 4: Car OFF video taken from under, passenger side.  You can see fluid looks ALMOST greenish, like a watery green, and it feels like the fluid in original video - https://goo.gl/photos/53VQCWQG3VaESJ1b8


Thoughts?






____________________________________
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"




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8/29/15 10:51pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Adams' Apple Lifetime Member
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Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19448
Water pump leaking. I can see green fluid on the engine....as well as it being green as it drips in the last vid. Mystery solved! Thumbs Up

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8/30/15 10:35am - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Jasond56
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Kenosha, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Corvette Stingray Coupe VIN 1Z37J3S418986 350 L-48 Automatic T-Tops St. Louis Assembly, 18,986th car built in 1973, Paint = 976 Mille Miglia Red, Interior = 425 Dark Red Vinyl (Ox Blood)

Joined: 5/7/2014
Posts: 154
So that begs the question...how hard is it for a novice to replace water pump? I've watched a few videos on the process and it doesn't seem THAT difficult. And I've priced a new pump out and they're not that expensive. However places like Eckler's have like 5 different pumps for the same year / engine type and they range from the $50 - $2-something range. Regular, high flow, aluminum, steel, etc. I'd like to do it myself so I can paint the parts while I have them off: new pump, fan blades, maybe pulleys. Plus I have a feeling a machine shop would charge me my first born. And I'd love to get the experience! Thanks guys!

____________________________________
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"




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8/30/15 10:39am - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
F4Gary Gold Member
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Grapevine, TX - USA

Vette(s):
1972 LT-1 convertible with factory air.

Joined: 8/26/2006
Posts: 862
Hardest part is having to lean over those wide fenders.  I swear I have hyper-extended knees from working on my Vette.  Big smile

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8/30/15 12:30pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Jasond56
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Kenosha, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Corvette Stingray Coupe VIN 1Z37J3S418986 350 L-48 Automatic T-Tops St. Louis Assembly, 18,986th car built in 1973, Paint = 976 Mille Miglia Red, Interior = 425 Dark Red Vinyl (Ox Blood)

Joined: 5/7/2014
Posts: 154
F4Gary - Any tips/tricks/pit falls to watch out for?  Do I need to worry about torquing to spec?  I do not have torq wrenches...but I can invest in them if need be.


____________________________________
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"




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8/30/15 2:25pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Vman73
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Gig Harbor, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1973 L82 4 Speed Coupe - Very original, well documented driver/survivor. 2016 Bend Regional NCRS Top Flight.

Joined: 10/2/2014
Posts: 353
Hey Jason - good to hear that you've discovered the source of the leak, fluid color was definitely the give away and leaking out water pump front bearing/seal is pretty common. No quick fix and it will only get worse so now is the time to do it before it leads to bigger engine problems.

Personally I think this is the perfect DIY project for you. It will be a great learning experience and will take your knowledge of your car to the next level. Having said that, there can also be a few pitfalls and it has the potential to open up a few cans of worms as you take things apart. The keys are to take your time, take lots of photos before you take anything apart, keep the parts sorted in the order in which you take them off because usually the reverse order is how you'll put them back together and finally take some notes. Memory is a great thing until your putting it back together the following weekend and you forgot what goes where.

Changing the WP on a small block chevy is pretty basic, getting to it on your car since you have A/C and your smog pump is still installed will be a little tricky. IMHO, no special water pump is necessary, std. flow cast iron is adequate for a base SB 350. Check with Autozone, NAPA or whoever you have for a local auto parts store. Since we've determined your car is pretty original, do not throw away or turn your old WP in for a core until you know if it's the original or not, we can help you with that once you have it off. Regarding the torque wrench, not a necessity but a good idea. Check to see if your local auto parts store has a rent or borrow program. You won't need it until you start putting things back together.  

So before you even go buy a water pump, the first serious pitfall might be your radiator. In order to change the pump, you have to drain the antifreeze out of the engine and radiator. There should be a plug or petcock on the bottom corner of the radiator, usually the pass side right below the lower radiator hose. A plug is pretty simple, counter clockwise to unscrew and drain. A petcock has a t-shaped fitting that turns clockwise or inward to drain the fluid through the center hole, usually the petcock fitting stays in place to drain. Be very careful with either of these fittings. Plugs and petcocks get very corroded and sticky with time and the end tanks of the radiator are very thin metal. Twisting the plug or petcock fitting out of the radiator will be a nightmare. Usually it means your radiator must come out to be repaired or installing a new one. That will make changing the WP look like a day a the beach !!

The alternative to drain the radiator is cutting or removing the lower radiator hose. A bit messy and very tight quarters to work in but it can be done. If your plug or petcock does not break free easily, stop and consider this method.

Once the system is drained, disconnect the battery and remove all of the belts, you should have four. Alternator, power steering, smog pump and A/C. All of these accessories have nuts or bolts to loosen, generally one to maintain tension and one to pivot on. Take pictures and notes of belt placement and what you loosened where.

With the belts off, pivot the alternator, A/C compressor and PS pump out of the way as best you can, no need to remove any of these.

The smog pump on the other hand needs to come off. I'm sure there are professional mechanics out there who do not, but I prefer to have a little bit more room to work. Remove the SP tension bracket, there will be one small bolt on the pump and another nut that holds it to a stud on the top LH WP bolt. The stud on that top WP bolt should hold both the smog pump and alternator tension brackets. Note the order of each bracket and any washers/spacers that might be there. That order controls how the brackets align with their accessories. You can also remove the alternator tension bracket at this time. Moving back to the smog pump, disconnect the small and large hoses you worked with on your previous vacuum hose project, pictures and note again of what goes where. Once the hoses are off the only thing holding it should be the pivot nut/bolt on the bottom.

With the smog pump out of the way you'll have good access to the fan, pulleys and WP. Since this is about half way to the actual removal of the pump, I'll take a break and let you review and contemplate the project with the info given above. Certainly the biggest obstacle to consider is the radiator, don't want to scare you off but many people have had very bad experiences with C3 radiators. Check out the petcock/drain plug and see if that's going to be the tipping point on doing this yourself. If it drains with no problem your ready to roll, if not, consider the lower radiator hose option or maybe a local shop for the repair. Do't take it to any old repair shop, do some research and find someone with some C3 experience. Hopefully we can walk you through this !!       

 




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John Sigmund
valkman57@sbcglobal.net
NCRS Member 61302
NW NCRS Chapter Member



Duct tape is the new Black !!
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8/31/15 1:12am - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Jasond56
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Kenosha, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Corvette Stingray Coupe VIN 1Z37J3S418986 350 L-48 Automatic T-Tops St. Louis Assembly, 18,986th car built in 1973, Paint = 976 Mille Miglia Red, Interior = 425 Dark Red Vinyl (Ox Blood)

Joined: 5/7/2014
Posts: 154
VMan73 - I can't begin to thank you for the detailed response.  It is a great feeling to have a "life line!"  As you know, I am a beginner.  To have experienced guys willing to give a newbie a hand instead of a *tisk* *tisk* and a shake of the head, is more appreciated than you know.  Red Velvet means a lot to me.  One day it will be my son's.  Getting it right, and more importantly safe, is a priority.  Again, thank you, guys, for all of your support!!

I will do as you suggested and take detailed notes/pics.  That's exactly what happened with my carb and hoses.  Thought I had it in memory, a week+ went by, realized my memory was not so good.

The good news is I flushed the radiator and installed a new lower rad hose last November.  The petcock manipulated easily!  From what I can tell, the radiator is really clean and in great shape.  Thankfully I will not have to remove lower rad hose.  I think I'd rather give up an arm then go through the ordeal of replacing that hose again!  :)

I think my biggest reluctance is those belts and pulleys.  Guess I just have to get in there and do it and hope for the best!

I'm curious why trading in the core if it's an original could be an issue?  Is it because it could be an original part and worth money?

As a side note: filled up power steering fluid this weekend.  Overflowed it.  Last time I was in New Orleans my wife and I got these jello shots in huge plastic syringes.  Something told me to hang onto one of them.  The syringe fit perfectly under the alternator and into the power steering reservoir, which, as you know, is a really hard area to get into.  Sucked out the extra fluid.  Goes to show you never know what will come in handy when working on these cars!

Again, thank you very much!

Jason




|UPDATED|8/30/2015 10:12:59 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


____________________________________
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"




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8/30/15 9:00pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Jasond56
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Kenosha, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Corvette Stingray Coupe VIN 1Z37J3S418986 350 L-48 Automatic T-Tops St. Louis Assembly, 18,986th car built in 1973, Paint = 976 Mille Miglia Red, Interior = 425 Dark Red Vinyl (Ox Blood)

Joined: 5/7/2014
Posts: 154
Update:  Draining coolant now.  Will let it drain overnight.  Petcock opened easily!  :)       Beer

____________________________________
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"




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8/30/15 10:55pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Vman73
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Gig Harbor, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1973 L82 4 Speed Coupe - Very original, well documented driver/survivor. 2016 Bend Regional NCRS Top Flight.

Joined: 10/2/2014
Posts: 353
F4gary ?? You are da man, LOL !! No biggie, glad to hear your radiator is all good and good to know you've got some experience with it and the lower hose. Continue on per my original post and I'll write up Phase II tomorrow morning. Regarding the WP core, if it's the original, like many of the other parts of the car it can be rebuilt and reinstalled somewhere down the line or have value to the next owner if they want to restore the vehicle. Like the engine block, the WP housing has a casting number and a date code that are particular to your car. Easy to save the original now rather than searching for one later. Just had my original rebuilt and reinstalled. Look for Phase II tomorrow.

____________________________________
John Sigmund
valkman57@sbcglobal.net
NCRS Member 61302
NW NCRS Chapter Member



Duct tape is the new Black !!
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8/31/15 1:15am - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Jasond56
Former Member
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Kenosha, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Corvette Stingray Coupe VIN 1Z37J3S418986 350 L-48 Automatic T-Tops St. Louis Assembly, 18,986th car built in 1973, Paint = 976 Mille Miglia Red, Interior = 425 Dark Red Vinyl (Ox Blood)

Joined: 5/7/2014
Posts: 154
VMan73 - ugh so sorry for the name confusion! I corrected in my response. Will let you know how things go. I'm lucky. I have a career that allows me work from home a few days a week. The water pump is my goal for the week :)

____________________________________
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"




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8/31/15 8:45am - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Redwoman Gold Member
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Bellingham, MA - USA

Vette(s):
1980 loaded red on red. 68,000 original miles. Second owner. Well documented with all original paperwork. NCRS Founders Award 9/27/14. NCRS Top Flight 10/12/14.

Joined: 6/23/2014
Posts: 171
When you go get the water pump you will need to get two gaskets for the pump. The gaskets are sold separately and individually. Trying to save you from making two trips to parts store.Check the belts for cracks and excessive wear. Now would be the time to change them if you haven't already. Never throw out any original parts!!!!

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8/31/15 10:52am - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Jasond56
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Kenosha, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Corvette Stingray Coupe VIN 1Z37J3S418986 350 L-48 Automatic T-Tops St. Louis Assembly, 18,986th car built in 1973, Paint = 976 Mille Miglia Red, Interior = 425 Dark Red Vinyl (Ox Blood)

Joined: 5/7/2014
Posts: 154
Thank you Redwoman! I will definitely check those belts for cracks and I will be sure to grab 2 gaskets. So far I've been good at keeping items I have replaced: old shift console, old arm rest, master cylinder cover, oil cap and radiator cap. I'm really considering rebuilding water pump if it turns out to be original. If not, I will replace and keep. GoT! The fight with Mountain and the prince! The siege on Castle Black! Is Sensa really marrying that psycho Ramses??? Gah! I can't take it!! :) Jason

____________________________________
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"




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8/31/15 6:13pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Vman73
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Gig Harbor, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1973 L82 4 Speed Coupe - Very original, well documented driver/survivor. 2016 Bend Regional NCRS Top Flight.

Joined: 10/2/2014
Posts: 353
Hey Jason - no problem, F4gary is a good guy and we've got to spread some appreciation his way too !!

So now on to Phase II - with the belts and the smog pump removed, we need to make a little more room by removing the smog pump mounting bracket and the upper radiator hose. The hose is pretty straight forward, just make sure to be careful if you do any twisting of the hose where it attaches to the elbow on the top of the radiator. Like the bottom end those connections to the radiator are thin metal brazed to the radiator tanks. You would not be the first person to rip the metal elbow right off the radiator by twisting it. Sounds like you have a good radiator, be gentle with it when taking hoses on or off.

So now back to the smog mounting bracket - you'll notice on the bottom it is held in place by one of the 4 bolts that attaches the water pump. Go ahead and take that bolt out and mark it top RH WP bolt or something you'll remember. The second bolt that holds the SP bracket on goes into the intake manifold, go ahead and remove it, mark it also and keep it with the smog pump bracket.

Now your ready for the fan, fan clutch and WP pulley. Prior to removing anything, make note of the clearance you have from the back of the pulley to the top of the water pump casting. You should a 1/16" or more. Use this as a reference to compare that same clearance when you install the new pump. 99% of the time that clearance will be the same and you'll be fine. If that clearance gets significantly tighter, you may have to shim the pump pulley out. We'll worry about that when your back in reassembly mode.  

Leave the fan attached to the clutch (silver thing with the aluminum fins) and look for the four bolts holding the clutch to the WP. Remove each of those four nuts, if the stud comes with any of the nuts that's okay. With all four removed, move the fan and clutch forward and it should tilt backward and out of the radiator shroud. Be careful not to gouge the backside of the radiator with the fan blades. With the fan and clutch out of the car you can remove the WP pulley and clearly start to see the WP.

Disconnect the lower radiator hose from the pump along with the heater hose that is attached to the pump. Now is a good time to check the condition of both heater hoses and determine if they are in good shape or need replacement. If you chose to replace the heater hoses, note their routing down to the heater core and be very careful with their connections. The heater core is just a smaller version of the radiator and replacing one of those is C3 nightmare #2. If you go there, also make note that the hoses are two different sizes (5/8" and 3/4"). Smaller one to the intake, larger one to the pump. If I'm removing old hoses to replace, I prefer to gently cut them off with a sharp utility knife and avoid any excessive twisting. Reinstalling new hoses I always make sure the metal tube or elbow is clean and coat the inside of the hose with a small amount of Vaseline or just wet it with some new antifreeze.  

So with the hoses out of the way, go back to the water pump bolts on the passenger side, one has already been removed when you took off the smog pump bracket, there is a second down lower, remove that bolt. You may get some antifreeze out of either bolt hole - nothing to worry about. Make sure to mark that bolt bottom RH WP.

With those two bolts out of the way, you'll notice there is another cast bracket overlapping the WP on that side, that bracket goes up to the A/C compressor. In order to get the pump in and out that bracket needs to be removed or swung out of the way to get the pump by, I prefer to remove it. That bracket is a two piece assembly and if you can locate and remove the correct bolts, that bracket can be removed while the second part stays attached to the A/C compressor. Here's a great place to take some pictures because once that bracket is out it may be a little confusing how it goes back in later.

So with the A/C bracket removed or out of the way the only thing holding the pump in place are the two bolts on the LH or driver's side. The top one should be the stud that was holding the smog pump and alt. tension brackets, the bottom should be just a simple bolt, mark both as top and bottom LH WP bolts. It may sound silly, but those four bolts are all different lengths and have caused more than a few guys problems on the reassembly.

With all four bolts removed and if your WP hasn't already fallen out, all that's holding it will be some gasket material and it should come out with a bit of a pry and wiggle of the WP. Congrats', your half way there !!

Let me know if you have any ??? or prefer a little less detail. I'll post up Phase III tomorrow.

Good Luck !!!

   

 




____________________________________
John Sigmund
valkman57@sbcglobal.net
NCRS Member 61302
NW NCRS Chapter Member



Duct tape is the new Black !!
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8/31/15 7:03pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Jasond56
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Kenosha, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Corvette Stingray Coupe VIN 1Z37J3S418986 350 L-48 Automatic T-Tops St. Louis Assembly, 18,986th car built in 1973, Paint = 976 Mille Miglia Red, Interior = 425 Dark Red Vinyl (Ox Blood)

Joined: 5/7/2014
Posts: 154
OK Update:  All belts and hoses are off and so is the complete fan shroud.  All bolts/washers are marked and set aside. I took a lot of detailed pics. The smog pump is a real pain.  The "pivot bolt" holding the smog pump in place does not clear the pulley attached to it.  Tried to remove the smog pump pulley and it just spins and spins.  Tried holding it steady to remove bolts and it just wouldn't go.  I may have to leave the smog pump on.  It pivots well out of the way.

First pic is looking toward water pump from driver's side.  Second pic is looking toward water pump from passenger's side.  The wet stuff is WD40 over spray.

I am printing out your Phase II instructions.  I will report back once water pump is off :)

PS: What are the drawbacks of removing the smog pump for good? I can see how NOT having it there would give a lot more room to work and see the engine itself.


 








|UPDATED|8/31/2015 4:03:02 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


____________________________________
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"




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8/31/15 7:03pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Vman73
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Gig Harbor, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1973 L82 4 Speed Coupe - Very original, well documented driver/survivor. 2016 Bend Regional NCRS Top Flight.

Joined: 10/2/2014
Posts: 353
No problem, your doing good, good pics. Sorry, I forgot about removing the SP pulley. You should be able to leave the smog pump in it's bracket and remove both the pump and bracket. One bolt below on the water pump, the other one back on the intake manifold. Give that a try.

____________________________________
John Sigmund
valkman57@sbcglobal.net
NCRS Member 61302
NW NCRS Chapter Member



Duct tape is the new Black !!
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8/31/15 9:21pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Jasond56
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Kenosha, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Corvette Stingray Coupe VIN 1Z37J3S418986 350 L-48 Automatic T-Tops St. Louis Assembly, 18,986th car built in 1973, Paint = 976 Mille Miglia Red, Interior = 425 Dark Red Vinyl (Ox Blood)

Joined: 5/7/2014
Posts: 154
Thank you!  Worked hard this afternoon!

I just went out to the garage and took a quick peek.  I see what you're saying about keeping the smog pump in its bracket and removing both as one piece.

What I'm not seeing is where the fan clutch meets the water pump.  From what I can tell, the fan clutch mounts to water pump pulley, not the water pump itself.  I tired to remove those 4 bolts on the clutch and the pulley spins.  I tried gripping the pulley by hand and loosening the bolts to no avail.  I'm reluctant to use vice grips or anything like that for fear of bending the pulley.  Suggestions?

Again, thanks for all the help!!!

Jason




____________________________________
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"




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8/31/15 10:24pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
F4Gary Gold Member
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Grapevine, TX - USA

Vette(s):
1972 LT-1 convertible with factory air.

Joined: 8/26/2006
Posts: 862
Jasond56 said: F4Gary - Any tips/tricks/pit falls to watch out for?  Do I need to worry about torquing to spec?  I do not have torq wrenches...but I can invest in them if need be.


I've never used a torque wrench on an iron block water pump.  As my grandfather used to say, tighten it down till it strips and back it off a 1/4 turn...


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8/31/15 10:32pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
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Jason, to get the fan clutch off, you'll need to remove the four nuts next to the PULLEY, not the ones closest to the fan. Since you already have the belt(s) off, the best way to hold the pulley while loosening the nuts is with a long screwdriver. Wedge the screwdriver between one of the nuts/studs on the pulley, and then loosen one of the other nuts, while hold the screwdriver. Go around and loosen all four of the nuts first, then you'll be able to wrench them off easily.Don't be tempted to grip, or wedge the pulley itself...you'll wind up bending, or damaging it. Hold the pulley by the nuts...it won't hurt anything. Once you get the fan and pulley off, you'll see how it all attaches to the pump. Those four studs with the nuts are actually threaded into the WP shaft....Wink
Keep track of any spacers, like the one on the smog pump bracket, and be sure to get them back in the correct location. Make sure you take note of the bolt lengths on all of the bolts....they're not all the same length, plus some have stud heads on them for other brackets to fit onto.
Make sure the block is dry when you're ready to reassemble everything. Use a small amount of silicon, or aviation sealer on the threads of the four bolts that hold the WP on....those bolts go thru to the water jacket.

If you really want to keep the original pump, assuming it IS the factory pump, you can do what I did. Buy a reman pump(NAPA, Autozone, etc), the take the guts out of that and install them in your original pump housing. Not really that hard to do, but it needs to be done carefully. I actually bought two reman pumps for mine. One I installed so I could drive the car, and the other I gutted when I was ready to rebuild my original, and put it back on the car.

|UPDATED|8/31/2015 7:32:04 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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8/31/15 10:30pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
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F4Gary said:I've never used a torque wrench on an iron block water pump.  As my grandfather used to say, tighten it down till it strips and back it off a 1/4 turn...

Hmmm...I was always told to tighten until JUST before it strips....LOL



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