C3 Vette Registry - The Best Resource on the Net for C3 Vettes! C3 Vette
Forums -> C3 Engines
Not Logged In! Login or Register!  Users Online: 14 / Help 
Features  Find C3 Parts on ebay in only 2 or 3 clicks!  | Add YOUR C3 to the Registry

Supporting Vendors
Bair's Corvettes
CorvetteClothing.com
VetteBookStore.com
Mid America Motorworks
Volunteer Vette Products

C3 of the Month
None Current
Enter Yours Today!
Online C3 Show
13
C3s are Registered

Vanity Plates
BAD-SVET
yellownredvette
Featured Links

Buy Now
Collector's Originality Guide Corvette 1968-1982 (Paperback)
Collector's Originality Guide Corvette 1968-1982 (Paperback)


Chevrolet Corvette: 1968 thru 1982, All V8 models (Haynes Manuals) (Paperback)
Chevrolet Corvette: 1968 thru 1982, All V8 models (Haynes Manuals) (Paperback)


GM Corvette 1963-82 (Chilton's Total Car Care Repair Manuals) (Paperback)
GM Corvette 1963-82 (Chilton's Total Car Care Repair Manuals) (Paperback)


The Corvette Dynasty (Hardcover)
The Corvette Dynasty (Hardcover)



| Hide Signatures and Profile Pics

 New Topic New Topic Post Reply Reply New Poll New Poll Search     Search Page 1 2 [3] 4 5  
 
Support C3VR!
Suport our advertisers
9/1/15 2:14pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Vman73
Standard Member
- Send Private Message


Gig Harbor, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1973 L82 4 Speed Coupe - Very original, well documented driver/survivor. 2016 Bend Regional NCRS Top Flight.

Joined: 10/2/2014
Posts: 353
Hey Jason, how are you doing ?? Hope your not PO'd cuz I talked you into tackling this one. Follow Joel's instruction on getting the four clutch/pulley bolts loose and remove the fan. One thing I forgot to mention is that the pulley assembly is actually two pieces, the original two groove WP pulley and a second single groove add on pulley for the smog pump. Hopefully with the fan and pulleys out of the way you can get back to my original instructions. The A/C bracket can be a bit tricky but you can do it. When you get the pump off you have the option to install the new rebuild or purchase a rebuild to get the new components out of it to rebuild yours like Joel mentioned. You can also save it and send it to a professional rebuilder if your not comfortable rebuilding it yourself. So let's take a look at your to see if it's original, if not, then the decision is easy, just put the new rebuild on and turn the old one in for a core. On the front face of the pump on either side of the shaft there should be two sets of numbers. The first is pretty big and easy to read, that would be the casting number. The correct casting number for your car is 330818. If that number matches look for the casting date on the other side of the front face. That number is substantially smaller and a little harder to read. The casting date starts with a letter denoting the month A=Jan., B=Feb. and so on. If I remember right your car was a March or April build so hopefully the date code starts with a B, C, or D. The second character will be one ore two digits indicating the day of the month and the last character is one number indicating the year, hopefully your is a "3". So if our casting number matches and the date code is prior to the built date of your engine, you have the original water pump !! 99% of the time the old pump is just turned in for the core charge and a bit of the car's originality is lost. It also another small part of that "numbers match" statement you hear about most Corvettes. Let us know where your at and what you find out about your pump.

____________________________________
John Sigmund
valkman57@sbcglobal.net
NCRS Member 61302
NW NCRS Chapter Member



Duct tape is the new Black !!
 Reply Reply  Quote Reply w/Quote
9/1/15 2:15pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Jasond56
Former Member
- Send Private Message


Kenosha, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Corvette Stingray Coupe VIN 1Z37J3S418986 350 L-48 Automatic T-Tops St. Louis Assembly, 18,986th car built in 1973, Paint = 976 Mille Miglia Red, Interior = 425 Dark Red Vinyl (Ox Blood)

Joined: 5/7/2014
Posts: 154
Another great morning!  Got the water pump out!  Vman73 your instructions were perfect!  Again, thank you very much! 

A few things I hate: the AC bracket and the smog pump in general :/  Smog pump was very difficult to remove and that AC swivel bracket is impossible to swivel out of the way while the water pump in still attached.  Matter of fact, when I removed the lower left AC bracket bolt (lower left if looking at the car from the front) that attached the AC bracket to the water pump, a fairly large chunk of the AC bracket itself came off with the bolt.  I do not think it is a big deal, but still.  I am assuming I have to keep the chunk on the bolt when reassembling to allow the proper distance that bolt is supposed to go into the bracket/water pump.  I hope that made sense.  I think I would like to bypass both the AC and smog pump at some point.

Other than that...Adam's, brilliant idea using a screw driver as a lever to stop the pulley from spinning while removing the fan clutch.  Worked like a charm!

I scraped the old water pump gasket material off of the block.  Both sides.  Seems nice and smooth.

Any suggestions to clean things up in there?  I'm guessing I have to be very careful if spraying with Simple Green...wouldn't want to get a cleaning agent in water pump block holes, correct?

A few things I found: on the front of the fan clutch is a large "CA".  Does this stand for California package?  Does this further verify the car was an original California production?  We talked about that a few threads ago when we were deciphering engine numbers.

On the water pump itself I found the following numbers: 330813  C53GM1.  To my untrained eye, I tried looking for a leak area on the water pump and I couldn't find a ting.  I hope the leak WAS the water pump LOL  Wacko

Here are a few pics of today's progress!!

Thanks again!  You guys rock!










____________________________________
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"




 Reply Reply  Quote Reply w/Quote
9/1/15 2:21pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Jasond56
Former Member
- Send Private Message


Kenosha, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Corvette Stingray Coupe VIN 1Z37J3S418986 350 L-48 Automatic T-Tops St. Louis Assembly, 18,986th car built in 1973, Paint = 976 Mille Miglia Red, Interior = 425 Dark Red Vinyl (Ox Blood)

Joined: 5/7/2014
Posts: 154
VMan - You must have been writing me as I was updating you guys on today's progress! 

It seems the casting numbers are a bit off.  Mine are 330813 (instead of 330818) and C53GM1 (instead of GM3).  So close!




____________________________________
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"




 Reply Reply  Quote Reply w/Quote
9/1/15 2:48pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Vman73
Standard Member
- Send Private Message


Gig Harbor, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1973 L82 4 Speed Coupe - Very original, well documented driver/survivor. 2016 Bend Regional NCRS Top Flight.

Joined: 10/2/2014
Posts: 353
Jason, looks great and it looks like we both posted at about the same time. First of all your right, you don't want to get a bunch of cleaning solution or grease into the WP holes. I suggest using some paper towel to soak up the anti freeze that's immediately in front of the holes until it 1/4" or so below the level of the hole, then clean the surface with some lacquer thinner or other solvent. You may also have to use a razor blade or sharp putty knife to scrap off any of the remaining gasket. Once the bare metal surfaces are clean and dry, use some duct tape to tape off the holes before you start cleaning. Don't get too aggressive around the taped areas and blow the tape off. So the second part of your note is also great information, your casting number is correct and the casting date of C53 which is March 5th of '73 looks good for your car (if I'm remembering your engine build date correctly). Now you have a decision to make on if your going to rebuild the original or just install the rebuild. Installing the rebuild is probably the easiest, just save the original to rebuild at a later date. If you install the rebuild unit, you'll notice there might be a few things that need to be transferred over. The four studs that hold the fan on and the pipe fitting that connects the larger heater hose. The pipe fitting is pretty straight forward, just be careful not to damage it or the WP casting. Clean the pipe threads with a wire brush and use a small amount of liquid pipe dope to seal the thread when you reinstall. The studs can be taken out in a number of ways depending how how tight they are. The easiest is to run two of the nuts together on the same stud and turn the bottom nut out to get the stud moving. The second option is to buy a stud removal socket at your local auto parts store, I believe those studs are 1/4". The last an most tempting option is to use a small vise grips on the non threaded section of the stud. This is my least favorite option, but I have done it, just be very careful so you don't muck up the threaded section of the stud. Hopefully the first option will work. Regarding the CA on the clutch, I don't think it has anything to do with California but I could be wrong. There is however another date code on the clutch if you're interested. I'll post some additional information and a picture of mine so you can see what your looking for. You're doing great !!

____________________________________
John Sigmund
valkman57@sbcglobal.net
NCRS Member 61302
NW NCRS Chapter Member



Duct tape is the new Black !!
 Reply Reply  Quote Reply w/Quote
9/1/15 2:55pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Vman73
Standard Member
- Send Private Message


Gig Harbor, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1973 L82 4 Speed Coupe - Very original, well documented driver/survivor. 2016 Bend Regional NCRS Top Flight.

Joined: 10/2/2014
Posts: 353
Wow, we cross posted again. Take another look at the last casting digit, I'll bet its an 8 not a three. Disregard the GM1 below the casting date, the 3 you are looking for is in the C53 above the GM1 portion. I could be wrong but I believe you've got the original pump, take a closer look.

____________________________________
John Sigmund
valkman57@sbcglobal.net
NCRS Member 61302
NW NCRS Chapter Member



Duct tape is the new Black !!
 Reply Reply  Quote Reply w/Quote
9/1/15 3:31pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Jasond56
Former Member
- Send Private Message


Kenosha, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Corvette Stingray Coupe VIN 1Z37J3S418986 350 L-48 Automatic T-Tops St. Louis Assembly, 18,986th car built in 1973, Paint = 976 Mille Miglia Red, Interior = 425 Dark Red Vinyl (Ox Blood)

Joined: 5/7/2014
Posts: 154
Vman73 said: Wow, we cross posted again. Take another look at the last casting digit, I'll bet its an 8 not a three. Disregard the GM1 below the casting date, the 3 you are looking for is in the C53 above the GM1 portion. I could be wrong but I believe you've got the original pump, take a closer look.


We're vibing today!

Here are some better pics of the casting numbers.  See what you think.
I also found a set of numbers on back of one of the fan blades.  Not sure if they mean anything...











____________________________________
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"




 Reply Reply  Quote Reply w/Quote
9/1/15 5:05pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Vman73
Standard Member
- Send Private Message


Gig Harbor, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1973 L82 4 Speed Coupe - Very original, well documented driver/survivor. 2016 Bend Regional NCRS Top Flight.

Joined: 10/2/2014
Posts: 353
Jason - Looks like your on a part number roll !! 3991427 is the correct part number for a 1973 seven bladed cooling fan and they are date coded with a single letter for the month and two digits for the year, so B73 is Feb., 1973, perfect for your car. Back to the water pump, the C53 above the GM1 stands for March 5th, 1973, again perfect for your car. There is a slim chance that it could also mean '63 or '83 but I'm going with '73. Regarding the last digit of the casting number it certainly looks like a three but could also be an eight with a void cast into the center. It looks like there is a small hole there in the center which may indicate a potential void. If you also look very closely at the center of the other two 3's you'll see that the center section returns a bit farther than the one in question. So even if it's a three there is still a void cast into that number. I don't have any particular reference to see if 330813 is even a legit casting number, but with that date code to support it, I'll say that 3 is indeed an 8. Perhaps someone else has a different opinion or a way to validate if 330813 is even a legit number (Joel or Kyster??). Keep going, your doing good. Your probably in clean-up and paint mode, have fun.

____________________________________
John Sigmund
valkman57@sbcglobal.net
NCRS Member 61302
NW NCRS Chapter Member



Duct tape is the new Black !!
 Reply Reply  Quote Reply w/Quote
9/1/15 9:21pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Jasond56
Former Member
- Send Private Message


Kenosha, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Corvette Stingray Coupe VIN 1Z37J3S418986 350 L-48 Automatic T-Tops St. Louis Assembly, 18,986th car built in 1973, Paint = 976 Mille Miglia Red, Interior = 425 Dark Red Vinyl (Ox Blood)

Joined: 5/7/2014
Posts: 154
I'm really excited about all these numbers matching!  I'm starting to think the previous owner did not know what he really had!  I am keeping detailed notes on each thing we uncover.  It's like unraveling a mystery!

Question - what does a "voided" casting number mean?

At this point I have to stop for a few days.  Have to get to the office :(

I am going to clean things up as best I can.  Do some painting (brackets, pulleys, water neck).  That will give me time to decide what to do with the water pump - have it professionally rebuilt or buy a rebuilt and store the original.  I think I am leaning towards having the original rebuilt.

Until next time...

Jason


____________________________________
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"




 Reply Reply  Quote Reply w/Quote
9/1/15 10:43pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Adams' Apple Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member
Moderator
- Send Private Message


Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19448
The "CA" on the fan clutch is the production/option code. It told the assy line workers which clutch to install on an engine, depending on if it had A/C or not.

Take a look at the bottom of your water pump....the leak is coming from the weep hole.




It's either leaking from there, or possibly the rear sheet metal cover. Either way, it needed to be replaced. Yer doing a great job...keep at it! Thumbs Up




____________________________________
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)
             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
 Reply Reply  Quote Reply w/Quote
9/2/15 12:33am - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Vman73
Standard Member
- Send Private Message


Gig Harbor, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1973 L82 4 Speed Coupe - Very original, well documented driver/survivor. 2016 Bend Regional NCRS Top Flight.

Joined: 10/2/2014
Posts: 353
Jason, the void in the casting that I'm referring to is when the material that is being cast does not fill the mold properly. It could be something that got stuck in the mold from a previous part or a defect in the mold itself. When the hot metal is not allowed to fill into the mold properly it can cause a void or a hole in the part. Something in that last 8 of the casting number prevented the metal from getting into the mold at that point preventing that portion of the number from being properly formed. No casting expert here, just my opinion.

____________________________________
John Sigmund
valkman57@sbcglobal.net
NCRS Member 61302
NW NCRS Chapter Member



Duct tape is the new Black !!
 Reply Reply  Quote Reply w/Quote
9/2/15 12:50am - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Vman73
Standard Member
- Send Private Message


Gig Harbor, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1973 L82 4 Speed Coupe - Very original, well documented driver/survivor. 2016 Bend Regional NCRS Top Flight.

Joined: 10/2/2014
Posts: 353
So here's a twist on the WP casting number, just double checked the 330813 number and it is correct. I got the 330818 number from Richard Prince's '68 to '83 Restoration Guide (page 135) but it must be a misprint. Just checked my pump and the NCRS Judging manual and 330813 is correct, sorry for the confusion !!

____________________________________
John Sigmund
valkman57@sbcglobal.net
NCRS Member 61302
NW NCRS Chapter Member



Duct tape is the new Black !!
 Reply Reply  Quote Reply w/Quote
9/2/15 5:46pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Redwoman Gold Member
Gold Member
- Send Private Message


Bellingham, MA - USA

Vette(s):
1980 loaded red on red. 68,000 original miles. Second owner. Well documented with all original paperwork. NCRS Founders Award 9/27/14. NCRS Top Flight 10/12/14.

Joined: 6/23/2014
Posts: 171
Jason Your doing a great job! When you own a Vette you need to learn how to work on it yourself. Listen Vman and Adam's apple they will get you through it. I am also a member of NCRS and wished I had known about them before I restored my car. I recommend joking NCRS just to buy the judging manuals for your car. If your excited about casting numbers and codes the NCRS books will have all the info. It saves countless hours of research.even if you don't participate in any functions. If your car is original and have it judged through NCRS at a regional level they are more experienced. they don't judge your car to another car like show and shines. They judge it by how close it is to the day it left the showroom.

____________________________________
 Reply Reply  Quote Reply w/Quote
9/2/15 10:16pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Adams' Apple Lifetime Member
Lifetime Member
Moderator
- Send Private Message


Duncanville, TX - USA

Vette(s):
#1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas

Joined: 11/8/2003
Posts: 19448
You don't have to be an NCRS member to purchase the Judging Guides... Thumbs Up

____________________________________
Joel Adams
C3VR Lifetime Member #56    
My Link


(click for Texas-sized view!)
             NCRS

"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"
 Reply Reply  Quote Reply w/Quote
9/3/15 1:10am - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Jasond56
Former Member
- Send Private Message


Kenosha, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Corvette Stingray Coupe VIN 1Z37J3S418986 350 L-48 Automatic T-Tops St. Louis Assembly, 18,986th car built in 1973, Paint = 976 Mille Miglia Red, Interior = 425 Dark Red Vinyl (Ox Blood)

Joined: 5/7/2014
Posts: 154
Vman73 said: So here's a twist on the WP casting number, just double checked the 330813 number and it is correct. I got the 330818 number from Richard Prince's '68 to '83 Restoration Guide (page 135) but it must be a misprint. Just checked my pump and the NCRS Judging manual and 330813 is correct, sorry for the confusion !!


No problem!  Great news!

I stopped into my machine shop this am on my way to work and he does not rebuild water pumps.  Owner handed me the latest Hemming's catalog and suggested I find someone in there.  I found a number of places that rebuild water pumps.  I'm going to call tomorrow and check on prices.


____________________________________
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"




 Reply Reply  Quote Reply w/Quote
9/3/15 1:18am - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Jasond56
Former Member
- Send Private Message


Kenosha, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Corvette Stingray Coupe VIN 1Z37J3S418986 350 L-48 Automatic T-Tops St. Louis Assembly, 18,986th car built in 1973, Paint = 976 Mille Miglia Red, Interior = 425 Dark Red Vinyl (Ox Blood)

Joined: 5/7/2014
Posts: 154
Redwoman - Thank you!  I'm really enjoying this project!

I would love to have Red Velvet judged professionally.  Although, I can see it being a deep rabbit hole.  I'm pretty obsessive about stuff I am passionate about.  If it doesn't check out to my satisfaction...there goes the kid's college funds!  :)

What do I need to do to get my vette judged?  Is that something that comes along with membership?  I skimmed through member benefits on the NCRS website and didn't see info about it.

Jason


|UPDATED|9/2/2015 10:18:14 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


____________________________________
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"




 Reply Reply  Quote Reply w/Quote
9/3/15 1:19am - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Jasond56
Former Member
- Send Private Message


Kenosha, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Corvette Stingray Coupe VIN 1Z37J3S418986 350 L-48 Automatic T-Tops St. Louis Assembly, 18,986th car built in 1973, Paint = 976 Mille Miglia Red, Interior = 425 Dark Red Vinyl (Ox Blood)

Joined: 5/7/2014
Posts: 154
Adams' Apple said: You don't have to be an NCRS member to purchase the Judging Guides... Thumbs Up


$35 isn't bad for the book...I think I'll pick it up!  Thanks for the tip!


____________________________________
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"




 Reply Reply  Quote Reply w/Quote
9/3/15 8:44am - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Redwoman Gold Member
Gold Member
- Send Private Message


Bellingham, MA - USA

Vette(s):
1980 loaded red on red. 68,000 original miles. Second owner. Well documented with all original paperwork. NCRS Founders Award 9/27/14. NCRS Top Flight 10/12/14.

Joined: 6/23/2014
Posts: 171
Adam is correct you don't have to be a member to buy the books. They send you two magazine quarterly. The driveline has adds for all kinds of service water pump rebuilders, carbs, etc.. The restorer has info from the regional and national shows, parts for sale etc. They do offer so many other services for free if your a member that you would have to pay for somewhere else. NCRS isn't for everybody and your excited about what the codes, casting, etc. if you become a member you could start out being an observer judge then move up.You would need to join a local Ncrs chapter first. Tom Walther is the contact for Wisconsin. PH 262-552-9672. Email zo6monster08@yahoo.com web HTTP:// www.ncrs-wi.com. NCRS main ph: 513-385-8526. Email info@ncrs.org.send me a private message if you need more info.

____________________________________
 Reply Reply  Quote Reply w/Quote
9/3/15 6:20pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Vman73
Standard Member
- Send Private Message


Gig Harbor, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1973 L82 4 Speed Coupe - Very original, well documented driver/survivor. 2016 Bend Regional NCRS Top Flight.

Joined: 10/2/2014
Posts: 353
Great advise RW, give the local chapter of the NCRS a call and see when their next meeting is. It will give you a good taste of what the organization is all about and you'll see some fantastic cars. 

Purchasing the judging manual is also a good first step and great tool to learn about your car. Right now the '73-'74 manual is in its second edition and IMHO it needs an update and I am going to be working through my local chapter to help do so.

It may be a while before you do a full on restoration, but the more information you can get, the more you'll appreciate the originality of your car. Like we said earlier, never throw anything out. Feel free to personalize your car, but if you do so in ways that can be undone, it will be important to you or a prospective buyer in the future.

So here's the last tidbit of numbers I promised you. When your ready to re-assemble check out your fan clutch. While holding the flange that bolted it to the WP and pulley, see if the portion of the clutch where the fan attaches to turns. It should turn but you should feel some resistance. If it's stuck or spins freely you may need a new clutch, but don't throw it out until you check the numbers. Like the WP if it's original it can be rebuilt !!

Right on that same edge where the four bolt holes are there is a date and manufacturing code.



You may have to zoom in a bit, but here's a shot of the code on my fan clutch - K2272SC. The code reads K=Oct., 22 = 22nd, 72 = 1972, SC = Schweitzer Corp or Schweitzer Clutch, the manufacturer. So my car was assembled in mid Dec., 1972 so this Oct. 22, 1972 clutch is perfect for my car, giving a very good indication that it is the original.

Check yours out and see what you can find. First make sure it is functioning properly, then check for a code.

Good luck and drop us a line if you need any help getting it back together.

    





|UPDATED|9/3/2015 3:20:01 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


____________________________________
John Sigmund
valkman57@sbcglobal.net
NCRS Member 61302
NW NCRS Chapter Member



Duct tape is the new Black !!
 Reply Reply  Quote Reply w/Quote
9/3/15 10:42pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Jasond56
Former Member
- Send Private Message


Kenosha, WI - USA

Vette(s):
1973 Corvette Stingray Coupe VIN 1Z37J3S418986 350 L-48 Automatic T-Tops St. Louis Assembly, 18,986th car built in 1973, Paint = 976 Mille Miglia Red, Interior = 425 Dark Red Vinyl (Ox Blood)

Joined: 5/7/2014
Posts: 154
Vman73 said:
Check yours out and see what you can find. First make sure it is functioning properly, then check for a code.


Good Evening Guys!

Checked the fan clutch...turns but with resistance.  Yay!

As for clutch numbers, I found: A3073S6 (or maybe the "6" is a "C"...hard to tell...but I swear it's a "6")

So I believe it means: January 30, 1973 and maybe Schweitzer Corp or Schweitzer Clutch

My car's build date is March of 73.  Checks out!


|UPDATED|9/3/2015 7:42:39 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


____________________________________
"You know, we always called each other goodfellas. Like you'd say to somebody: You're gonna like this guy, he's all right. He's a goodfella. He's one of us. You understand?"




 Reply Reply  Quote Reply w/Quote
9/4/15 5:22pm - Reply: 'Re: Fluid Leak...Not Sure What This Is'
Vman73
Standard Member
- Send Private Message


Gig Harbor, WA - USA

Vette(s):
1973 L82 4 Speed Coupe - Very original, well documented driver/survivor. 2016 Bend Regional NCRS Top Flight.

Joined: 10/2/2014
Posts: 353
Hey Jason that's great news, I'm sure it's SC rather than S6. 

Two more easy ones while you've got things apart are the WP pulleys. The 2 groove water pump pulley should have a 3991424 stamped into it someplace and the add-on smog pump pulley should be 3991425. 

There are two more on the main crankshaft pulley and the add-on power steering pump pulley but its not worth taking more apart to check numbers. Put these two in your notes if you ever find yourself working down there in the future - main crankshaft pulley 3911013 and PS pump add-on pulley 3751232.

The term "numbers matching" gets a bit over used on Corvettes when people just look at the engine block and the VIN number, there's a whole lot more to the story. Right now I have a spreadsheet with about 70 items that are part numbered, dated coded or both on my car. Keep track of what you have and add to it as you do more work on your car and the most important part is enjoy it !!

Regarding your earlier question about a torque wrench, the only bolts that really need to be torqued (IMHO) are the four water pump bolts and the one that you took out of the intake manifold. All five bolts have a torque spec of 30 ft. lbs.

Keep us posted on your progress.     


____________________________________
John Sigmund
valkman57@sbcglobal.net
NCRS Member 61302
NW NCRS Chapter Member



Duct tape is the new Black !!
 Reply Reply  Quote Reply w/Quote
 New Topic New Topic Post Reply Reply New Poll New Poll Search     Search Page 1 2 [3] 4 5  
 Forums -> C3 Engines
(Moderator: Adam Wartell, Norsky, Adams' Apple)
 

 
Official C3 Vette Registry Community:
Home | Forums | Email | Who's Online | Clubs | Events | Member Stats

Other Official C3 Vette Registry Areas:
Members | Research | Shop | My Account | About C3VR
 

Corvette is a registered trademark of the General Motors Corporation(GM) & Chevrolet Motor Division. Vette Registries, LLC is responsible for all site content (except for member submitted content or where otherwise noted) and does not claim or imply that Chevrolet or GM is responsible for Official C3 Vette Registry content. Vette Registries, LLC is independent from GM and is not affiliated with, sponsored or supported by GM.  Copyright/trademark/sales mark infringements are not intended, or implied and are in fact used to support GM, Chevrolet and Corvette

Official C3 Vette Registry content is Copyright 2001-2017, Vette Registries, LLC. Content may not be reused without written consent. All Rights Reserved. NS

Corvette (Vette) Model Years on this site: 1968 1969 1970 1971 1972 1973 1974 1975 1976 1977 1978 1979 1980 1981 1982 30