I have a '75 car with a very soft fiberglass floor on the drivers side. Has any one out there installed one of the replacement floor pans I see in the catalogs? How hard is this and what do I need in the way of tools. Is there any guidance on doing this in any of the restoration books? Thanks for the help!!!
Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/
Am-Fm/map light Multiple NCRS "Top Flight"
#2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto
Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
I haven't done that meself, but I think there are a couple of folks here that have been thru it. There's quite a bit of labor involved, so it's not exactly an evening project. There are some resto books that do cover stuff like this, too. I can't think of a specific one off-hand, but perhaps someone else will have some better info.
____________________________________ Joel Adams C3VR Lifetime Member #56 My Link
My original pans were metal from the factory and I am not sure about yours. Take a lot of measurements before you cut. The pans you buy will also need to be trimmed. On my car I cut out the old ones, fitted the new ones and then temporarily held them in place with a few screws until I could weld them in place.
When I was finished I glassed in all the seams to prevent any water from coming in. I spent about 2 days per side doing the job. Cut a smaller section out of the old floor and start from there fitting the new one in.
If you cut too much then you will have some large gaps to fill and strengthen. This is doable from the top side of the car. I purchased my pans from MAM but other vendors have them also. The metal pans are heavy and bulky to maneuver around in the car sometimes.
Take your time, take breaks, take Motrin, and do a good job. Dennis B.
Corvettes and women are the same...You want to make love to them but they keep breaking down.
Darrell, GM went to steel floors in 76. I know you have glass as you mentioned. I'm thinking that if you only have soft spots in your foot area then I'm suggesting that you take a two pieces of 14 ga. steel approx. 14 x 14 inches, placing one inside that area, the other under the floor. Drill holes and pop rivet the two pieces with the glass sandwiched in between. You will encounter a piece of steel bracket under that area towards the front section that holds a steel bracket that is used to mount a steel splash/ theft pan for that area. Above is the key lock for the security alarm. You would have to make a cut-out for the new underside steel, just a couple inches square cutout. I haven't done this myself or know of anyone else that has done this. It's just my crazy idea. Think about it really should be do-able and should really stiffen the floor. Good luck whatever you do and keep us informed.
Vette(s): 1982 C3 Collectors Edition 44000 miles, sat in the sun most of it's life, My wife purchased it for me for fathers day in 2007 from her girl friend that had it for 19 years. It is on the road again. I'm retired but it is now my daily driver.
I have steel pans but had the drivers side cracked where the seat connects. I put two 4x6 galvanized metal and epoxy sandwich. One under the car one inside and Pop riveted them together. I seems to me that taking out a seat pan would be the last resort. Any way I would be looking at reenforcing the soft spot unless it was to big. I do not know of any good way to replace the complete glass seat pan with a metal one. I would be concerned about the connection spots. Of course this from someone that has not done it.
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