Vette(s): Frederick County Corvette Club (Maryland)
Tan 64 365 Hp Conv 4 sp
Red 72 4 sp Conv ..running a '68 327
Blue 76 Coupe L 48 4 sp
White 79 Coupe L 82 auto
Silver 98 Conv, 6 sp
35th Anniv '88 vette
BUY ONE...read the directions ...do a fender...run you finger over that fender
I have a funny feeling you will do the entire car and when done a big smile will be on your face... I really do not know how to discribe what "smooth" feels like but I bet your finger will send the correct signal to your brain...
I use a spray bottle with plain old fashion water in it... spray a small area and then lightly apply the clar bar to that area...keeping the area wet as I work the bar over the surface..it it starts to stick I spray a little more water on the area... You keep folding the clay bar over onto itself when the working surface gets dirty...(I normally just roll it up in a ball as I go...
I story my "used" clay bar in a plastic sandwich bag...(zip lock) put in in the bag wstill damp ..and spray a little wanter inside then seal the zip lock
Remove letters etc..? LOL I'm way too lazy to do that...I use the bar in the same way I use Wax... around everything ...!
After using Zaino for a few years I switched to Meguiar's. I found that with a
white vette there wasn't much difference. The Zaino finish seemed a bit
more 'refined' but it also required more work and was more expensive. I
think most of the items on the market these days are all good. It comes
down to personal preference...
Vette(s): 1974, 454 with 4 on the floor, matching numbers.
I have heard alot about clay bars on this site i have never used one, could some one that knows about them share how they work, are applied, do you have to remove the chrome letters and scripts and badges? thanks
[/QUOTE] Mothers has a complete kit (less than $20) I clean my car first, then clay bar it, then a good coat of wax. You should be very pleased with the results. I clay bar my car once a year.
Vette(s): 1971 MM Red Convert (F.O. resto)
2001 navy blu /tan/lt oak convert, many mods... Z06 plus
For what it's worth, the absolute slickest, easiest and best wax I have ever used is DURAGLOSS 151. They make several products and are all good but the wax is OUTSTANDING!!! You can get it at a NAPA parts store or check on line for a outlet near you>
Vette(s): 1978 Silver Coupe (Andy)L48 with leather Oyster interior.(Born March 22, 1978)
2003 50th Anniversary Edition (Annie) Born January 14, 2003
I have heard alot about
clay bars on this site i have never used one, could some one that knows
about them share how they work, are applied, do you have to remove the
chrome letters and scripts and badges? thanks
I don't remove anything thats suppose to be attached when I clay bar the
cars. A clay bar will remove all of the road grime, tar, pitch, from the
paint surface. I currently use Mothers clay bar, however, I have used
Meguires and they are essentially the same. I'm sure the rest are also,
but have no expereince with them.
There is a lot of information in the net about clay bars, here is a copy of
what Meguires web site has:
Clay bars are non-abrasive bars of synthetic clay called polyclay. They are
somewhat like a high-tech version of Play-Doh®. They work in three easy
First, you mold the clay bar into a pancake-looking flat wafer
Second, you lubricate the finish with a spray lubricant like Meguiar's Quik
Third, you then rub the clay bar back and forth across the paint
(somewhat like a bar of soap against your arm)
That's it! You are now claying your car's finish. As you're doing this, the
clay bar will grab onto, lift, and pullout the contaminants that have
bonded to the surface of your finish.
Generally speaking for most cars, only the horizontal surfaces need to be
clayed, as it is the horizontal surfaces that contaminants tend to land on
and if not removed within a reasonable period of time will then bond
tightly to the surface. For extremely neglected vehicles, you can always
evaluate the vertical surfaces and if need be, clay them too.
One important thing to keep in mind, if a vehicle's finish has bonded
contaminants, it is highly likely that it also has below surface defects, for
example, pore-imbedding stains. For this reason, Meguiar's recommends
for best possible results, always use a paint cleaner after claying to insure
the finish is clean both on top of the surface as well as below the surface.
Vette(s): 1975 C3 Red, T-Tops, Black Interior.
All I need is time and money! Getting there!
Once it's clean, I have an odd recommendation.
Collinite Insulator Wax. It's a bit more work than some others, but with a lot of work and several coats it can make rust shine. Almost freaky. It's durability is great. It was originally made to use on high tension electrical insulators so the dirt would rinse off in the rain.
I have tried zaino's and did not think it was worth the money. I personally like meguir's #7 on a vette. If it's covered and in the garage, the more you apply it, the shinier it gets. I thought zymol was too difficult to apply, as was the Zaino. The zaino was also expensive. Kathy
Vette(s): 1965-327 coupe,
1968-small block coupe,
1971-454 coupe and currently a 1976-ZZ4 coupe reborn again,and hotter than ever..
Add a 1996 CE LT-4 for backup
On my new paint job the painter said to use anything I want as long as it is pure Carnauba wax. I purchased some pure Carnauba wax called "Waxoyl", it is in liquid form and you apply with a soft moist cloth, allow to dry to haze and wipe off. It's supposed to provide super lasting protection against sun,salt, rain and industrial fall-out? It's made in Germany. I will let you all know how it turns out, she gets it next week for the first time.. And remember when washing and waxing do it from front to back, your clear coat will not show the swirls..See ya all in Reno..Terry spielman52006-09-20 10:40:25
"I Love all Corvettes! LifeTime Member #60..Terry"
i have a very positive experience with Mequiar's .. first cleaning the paint with their clay and then use their wax.
for instance i don't like turtle wax.. to my experience after using it the shine doesn't last very long and actually start to look worse after some time then before waxing.... ofcourse unless you wanna wax it every 2 weeks :)
but reading with interest about other products to put on my freshly paint vette :)
Vette(s): 1969 convertible L71 427/435 4-speed black interior
The topic at the beginning of this discussion was for the best SHOW wax. That doesn't necessarily mean a great show wax is a long lasting wax.
Years ago I tried a wax called "Excalibur". It was expensive at the time...$5.00 if I remember correctly. I used it on the Studebaker Avanti I owned at the time (fiberglass like our Vettes). It was a pain to put on and buff off as it was a true paste wax. After I was done the car looked magnificent...it put a beautiful finish to the car. But...six weeks later the wax finish was gone, water no longer beaded up. And this was on a garaged car! Not even one that sat outdoors. It only got wet when I washed it weekly.
There was no way I was going to put that much effort into waxing my car every six weeks. I believe the wax I changed to at that time was one called Raindance...easy to use and lasted.
I know car care products have progressed far since that time (the mid-1970's). Most likely the least expensive private label car wax today is better than the best of that time period. When I say that I feel that Griot's Garage Best of Show Wax is the best I've ever used, it's true, but it's on garaged cars...I have yet to use it on my daily driver...still using Mequiar's Gold Class on that until it's gone. I can't say the Griot's is long lasting as I simply don't know. The cars I use it on stay garaged and driven for pleasure in good weather. I clay, polish and wax them once a year and I'm happy with the results.
An aside to the wax discussion...back in the 1970's I worked at a JCPenney Auto Center. We sold most of the good grades of car care products as well as the house brand. Consumer Reports back then did a test of car waxes and rated the JCPenney Green Jade car wax in their top group and said it was a "Best Buy". People started coming in and asking for it but by the time that review was printed, Penney's had discontinued it due to poor sales. It had truly ugly packaging which didn't help its sales, no matter how good a product it was. We had marked it down to 50 cents a can just to get rid of it...and who bought it all at that price? My Dad did...with my employee discount of course! He used it up on the painted metal lawn furniture to help protect them from the weather.
Poet...Mystic...Soldier of Fortune. As always...self-absorbed, adversarial, c o c k y and in general a malcontent.
Click image for larger pic
Vette(s): Previous: 1984 Silver / Charcoal Coupe, 1988 Maroon Coupe / 1989 Artic White / Mod. Red Int. Coupe, Present:1976 Stingray Black / Black, Auto, 350 slightly modified (355 hp) Luxor Wires Redline Tires. / 2001 Speedway White Vert, Torch Red Int, LS1, Auto.
[QUOTE=spielman5].. And remember when washing and waxing do it from front to back, [/QUOTE] Terry has the ticket here make sure you wax, buff, wash, wipe, etc from front to back to prevent swirls. I use Meguiar's Liquid Gold on Tux primairly because I also use the detail mist when we go to shows or gatherings. This combo works well together. On Tux's White Zombie I use Zaino. Previous owner used this so I'm stickin with it. It is smooth as glass and looks great on white. I use several other Griots products and really like them as well. They have a huge product line for detailing cars that is absolutely super. I have never used Liquid Glass but have wondered about this product. Mid America lists it and it sounds pretty good. Anybody out there try this one?
Vette(s): SOLD - "The Toy" - 1970 Convertible SOLD - "The Beast" - 1990 ZR-1 (#682) "BLKBRRD" - 1978 Trans Am, 400ci/285hp, 4 spd, Black w/black interior, Hurst t-tops
[QUOTE=spielman5]On my new paint job the painter said to use anything I want as long as it is pure Carnauba wax. ... [/QUOTE]
The fellow working on "BIGBRRD" also added to beware of any product containing silicone. The silicone will leech through the paint and into the fiberglass (or metal) and make it difficult for new paint to adhere. He said there are some products to draw the silicone out as the fiberglass (or metal) surfaces are being prepped but they weren't completely effective.
____________________________________ Jim Olson "The Toys"...!!! Save the Wave!
Vette(s): 1974, 454 with 4 on the floor, matching numbers.
After reading all these response's I will quit using any of the wax's I have (quite a bit) that have silicone. I stripped the old wax off, clayed it and re-waxed my car. Hopefully, I didn't do any real harm that may effect a future paint job.
I've really narrowed it down to Zymol as my wax of choice. Their "Cleaner Wax" works great, not expense, easy on/off and leaves a real nice shine. I also use their "Detail Spray" in between waxing and that also does a great job.
Vette(s): #1 -1969 Corvette Coupe Riverside Gold, black interior,MN,A/C,350/350,PS,PB,window cranks.
#2 -2000 C5, black/black, 6 sp, Bose system & lots of buttons.
[QUOTE=warbird]After reading all these response's I will quit using any of the wax's I have (quite a bit) that have silicone. I stripped the old wax off, clayed it and re-waxed my car. Hopefully, I didn't do any real harm that may effect a future paint job. [/QUOTE]
What did you use to get the old wax off yer car? , I didn't know about the Silicone..................I used some stuff with that in it on the C5.....
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