Well, still no start.....BUT I DID FIND OUT WHAT BUBBA WAS UP TO......

they bypassed the PassKey circuit in the steering column and sent the white/blk and ppl/wht wires into a separate key cylinder (with key) tucked up under the dash.

When I reconnect the steering column key I get a CCM DTC 53 -- "Circuit Open or Shorted to B+"  .....

So, instead of fixing that problem, bubba just bypassed with a dummy key so any key in the ignition (as long as it was cut close to the original key) would start the car.

The short/open must be in the steering column key cylinder, so I wont be in any hurry to take that apart.

Whuuuut?
Daaang...Bubba's gittin mighty goldang crafty, ain't he?

 So what about just replaceing the Steering Column itself and not messing with the Lock. Might be easyer in the long run. As all 93-96's C4's should have the same Options in column as far I can tell they should't be worth that much Used. If You did do this and ended up with a Black Steering Wheel in near new Condition I'd be interested in Buying it.

Another evening and still no life in the engine.....

BUT..... BIG WIN.... fixed Bubba's hack job .... took apart the connector for the wires from the steering column resistor check circuit and re-soldered the connector and now it works.  reads 11.7 ohms with the key in .

Re-tested the ICM wires and they are all good
Re-tested the coil wires but still no signal to energize the coil

I still dont understand how the opti could just quite but I am about ready to rip it out and look at it unless someone/anyone has any other ideas

You've got mail!
A problem with the anti-theft system would keep it from cranking, and the injectors from firing...yours is cranking, so I have to think the anti-theft is a moot issue, other than fixing the bubba stuff.
One thing do come to mind...what did you actually find wrong with the column connector for the ign switch? Broken wire, terminal, or whut?
If all you did was solder the terminals, and put them back in the connector, it's possible that the terminals on your ICM/Coil are also corroded enough to create a no start, even thu the voltage/resistance checks are good...just an idea.
I see this a LOT on cars at the shop...I'll wind up opening up the terminals and removing the wires, cleaning both the wire ends and the terminals, and the re-crimp, and solder the terminals back....fixes most of them...

Wires at the connector "looked" good but the insulation had been pulled back about a quarter inch on both wires.  No signs of rust.  I just cut the wires, opened the terminals, soldered the wires to the terminals and put the connector back together.
I tested the key chip resistor, then tested the circuit without the key (no continuity), then tested with the key in and got the resistor ohms same as on the key.

I will do the same for the ICM, Coil and Opti connectors.  lot of work but still easier than pulling the opti

Well, after more tests, I think I will pull the optispark.  However, if it is chewed up inside (which I suspect) then I have a bigger problem.  Last year when the engine was rebuilt they assembled the engine with the wrong cam shaft bolt (too long) and that was the cause of the opti's being chewed up then.  The engine rebuilder gave me most of my money back which went to the dealer to install the old cam bolt and new opti.  Now I wonder if that old bolt was not the correct one and was putting pressure (although less than the first bolt) on the rotor.  Makes me wonder since the car only had a few hundred miles on it since the rebuild.

So, if the opti is chewed up, I will have to pull the cam shaft out and replace it a new shaft/bolt.....GM does not have any bolts.

What a mess.....Don't think I will replace with another opti....instead may look at one of those bolt on replacements or a crate engine.

Any suggestions on a crate engine that is a direct bolt-in and does not have an OPTISPARK?????

 Sorry. Red I don't understand how a camshaft bolt can damage the rotor. On my LT-1, the only common surface between the cam and the opti is via