Chassis equals frame! (to avoid confusion, I wuz framed is nothing to do with the chassis )

I'm renovating the car because of rust in the body pillars and number four body mounts. Rust has all but destroyed the lower part of the driver's door pillar with lesser amounts in the other pillars. The main chassis,however, appears to be in remarkably good condition.

Questions: Where is the best place to obtain replacement for the sills and body posts. Any hints or advice concerning this welding job.

Trailing arms: Everything is off the main chassis except the two trailing arms of the rear suspension. The bolt holding each trailing arm resolutely refuses to move. Before getting really nasty with it, is there any advice as to how we can persuade it to come out (of the closet??) without cutting/drilling or whatever.

The front end appears to have drooped and pivoted just in front of the door pillars opening up a gap between the body at the top of the fire wall on the passenger side. Part of the gap has been closed by taking weight off the nose of the body (some of the strain is taken up by a winch). Are there any comments as to how to get the body square again and close the gaps? How critical is it that this is done before welding in the new sill? Are there data with which to build a former (ie frame which emulates the geometry of the body mounting points. )

This is the weekend hobby, the 454 being the weekday hobby.

Thanks and regards, David AKA pigpen

Questions: Where is the best place to obtain replacement for the sills and body posts. Any hints or advice concerning this welding job.

Check with the supporting venders. Many parts are from the same supplier so check pricing before you buy. If all else fails. Vette Products in Michigan sells everything up t6o and including full frames.

Trailing arms: Everything is off the main chassis except the two trailing arms of the rear suspension. The bolt holding each trailing arm resolutely refuses to move. Before getting really nasty with it, is there any advice as to how we can persuade it to come out (of the closet??) without cutting/drilling or whatever.

Sorry, I had to use a torch to get mine off.

Are there any comments as to how to get the body square again and close the gaps?

Replacement rocker channels and pillar post to start, then proper shimming of the body to the frame should take up the rest of the fit issues.

How critical is it that this is done before welding in the new sill?
Very. If the new sills are not welded in place correctly, it will make it impossible to get the correct alignment.

Trailing arms: Everything is off the main chassis except the two trailing arms of the rear suspension. The bolt holding each trailing arm resolutely refuses to move. Before getting really nasty with it, is there any advice as to how we can persuade it to come out (of the closet??) without cutting/drilling or whatever.

I soaked mine with some wd40 and let it stay on for a couple of hours. When I tried it, I was able to get it loose with some minor force.

I used a product called "In-Force" its an ion-activated penetrating oil, an air hammer/wrench ..it didnt put up to much of a fight. My car had sat in florida for 13 years rusting... The air wrench/hammer was the most used tool when I was taking everything apart.

with my trailing arms I had to cut them out..

the bolts were stuck.. I used pb blaster and beat on them with a 12 lb sledge over the course of three days...

and they still didnt move.

I dont have a torch at home so I cut the bolt off on each side with a reciprocating saw. then drilled them out about 3/4 of an inch deep.. then used a come-a-long to rip the shims out.. this pulled them through the thin cylinder that was left at the end of each bolt.. and once the shims were out the trailing arms were easy to manuever out.