i agree with the polishing compound, be sure you don't get rubbing compound as many shops only carry rubbing compound and it it more abrasive, use polishing compound. you can also wet sand it yourself it's a bit of work and try at a spot not see very good to try first, my car was wet sanded with 1500 by the painter, smooth as glass now.

I'll throw in the use of a foam pad for buffing, if you have never used one your in for a treat, you'll never use anything eles, also very forgiving on the edges and corners, available at auto paint stores.

Good Luck

Dave
Mr69Vett

I too am a woodworker and I've wet sanded a few cars, thus I'll throw this caution to you; take it easy, you can burn thru a clear coat much faster than it would take to smooth a piece of wood. Err on the side of undersanding and you'll probably be fine. Sand up to rather than away from body lines and edges, only sand them at the very end. Visit a good automotive store or bodyshop and get the correct sanding blocks. Vary your sanding direction periodicaly and watch your rinse water to see how much material you are removing. The 800 to 1,000 grit paper previously recommended is right on. I also agree with using the foam buffing pad.

As for paying a pro, consider a couple of points. 1) buffing is an art, if its not done right you'll be fighting buffer marks forever. 2) An amatuer can burn the clear coat off of the raised edges or body lines in heartbeat. 3) How much $$$ do you have tied up in the paint job? A few seconds of bad judgement, oversanding, or inattentive buffing can compromise a $5,000 paint job in a hurry. Plus, if you pay a pro and they mess it up you have someone to hold accountable.

I don't mean to scare you away from doing it yourself but there is a lot at stake and the results can be unexpected. It sounds like the dust isn't too bad if the clay bar had an effect on it. I'd suggest wet sanding it very carefully and then take it to a buffing pro for the final polish. They may even give you some guidance on the wet sanding if you visit them before you start. Personally I'd find the best body/paint shop in the area (the street rodders always seem to know who they are) rather than a wax/detail shop.

Good luck with it!!

Foam Pad? Does it go on a machine? Or is it a pad the paper wraps around and it is used by hand?

The foam pad screws tight on to the machine just like other pads. Very flexible, forgiving also, if you get to close to a corner, they just fluff off alittle foam, nothing hurt, still have to be careful on the edges and the like, but you will love them. I would start with 600, then go to 1000, lots of water and squeege off regular to see where your at. Good luck

Dave
Mr69vett