You are almost there. Replacement shims are about 1/8 inch thick steel. You can make your own or check what the Depot has in square washer hardware. The shims are about 2 1/4 inch square steel(correction: I just measured my old originals and they are 1 3/4 inches square). Back the bolt out and raise the body area slightly more than where you want it. Remove what was installed for shims and slide in your new ones. The space is tight, but slide them in from the rear and along the frame to the cage. A piece of coathanger wire might help. If you need more than one, glue them together and slide them in together. Be sure you have it on top of the cage and your bolt goes through it. Let the jack down and tighten the bolt. If your shims are of sufficient thickness, your door gap should be perfect.
I have several good originals you can have. Send me an email with your address and I will send them.

|UPDATED|11/27/2003 9:36:41 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Thanks! I'm going to find the proper shims before I start the project. It is a VERY small area to work in, to get to the bottom bushing. Will it matter where the shim is(above or below the bushing), as long as it is between the frame rail & the birdcage?

Thanks,
Rick


BTW. Check the url to the homepage for a couple of pics of her.
http://www.geocities.com/a69_vette/Black69vette.html

WOW...Beautiful example of a C3. Yea...I see what you mean, no rust on that baby. Check my last message update. Have a Good Thanksgiving...I'm off for turkey.

My rebuild manual shows the spacer above the shim as it lays on the cage. It also shows the bolt going thread down with a flat washer and lock washer under it. It is torgued to 40-50 lbs/ft according to my manual.

Thanks, I think I'm going to take her over to a Pro. I would rather someone who knows a lot about it take a look and see if they have the same ideas. The shop has my neighbors '57 and is completing a full frame off.

Thanks,
Rick