Topic: Front clip replacement
in Forum: C3 Body
Already a Member?
Click Here to Login
Not yet a Member?
Click Here to Register for Free!
I recently purchased a one piece front end for my vette. I have the front section completely loose except for the part that attaches to the firewall. It is held together on both sides by a compound that is virtually impossible to break loose. There is also very limited space to get much in there to work on. What is the best way to break it loose without taking it to a body shop? 
|UPDATED|7/17/2004 6:47:33 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

|UPDATED|7/17/2004 6:47:33 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
SPONSOR AD:: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)
That question is really tough to answer in this venue. If you've never done it before or haven't seen one removed, I suggest you get a book specific to that task, several of the resto books address body work.
It's difficult and time consuming. It's also very easy to make a big mess of things if you are unprepared.
If there's a shop near you that works on vettes, they may have one that has the front end off. I highly recommend locating a car with no front end so you can see what is supposed to stay and how the panels are bonded.
It's difficult and time consuming. It's also very easy to make a big mess of things if you are unprepared.
If there's a shop near you that works on vettes, they may have one that has the front end off. I highly recommend locating a car with no front end so you can see what is supposed to stay and how the panels are bonded.

Dave,
When I removed mine, I had not done one beofre either, mine was the first..........I used a heat gun, that really seemed to release the bonding adhesive, besides if your removing the front section you can heat the hell out of it, it will bubble, and the bonding adhesive will seperate between the two fiberglass panels. I not sure un what your saying about the firewall, the only one that i recall is across the top. If this is the case be sure to take some measurements before you start for the inside measurments between the fenders where the hood fits. If this measurment coinsides with the spacer bar that is holding your front section at the firewall, you may be able to use that piece, the spacer bar that was with my front section was not the correct lets say profile, so I cut it and spliced it into the factory peice that I left in place. If you would like some more information send me a note and I can try to explain how I did it and what if anything you could help you.......its alot of work but can be done, Good Luck!
Dave
Mr69vett
|UPDATED|7/19/2004 8:29:43 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
When I removed mine, I had not done one beofre either, mine was the first..........I used a heat gun, that really seemed to release the bonding adhesive, besides if your removing the front section you can heat the hell out of it, it will bubble, and the bonding adhesive will seperate between the two fiberglass panels. I not sure un what your saying about the firewall, the only one that i recall is across the top. If this is the case be sure to take some measurements before you start for the inside measurments between the fenders where the hood fits. If this measurment coinsides with the spacer bar that is holding your front section at the firewall, you may be able to use that piece, the spacer bar that was with my front section was not the correct lets say profile, so I cut it and spliced it into the factory peice that I left in place. If you would like some more information send me a note and I can try to explain how I did it and what if anything you could help you.......its alot of work but can be done, Good Luck!

Dave
Mr69vett

|UPDATED|7/19/2004 8:29:43 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|
|IMG|http://www.c3vr.com/member_uploads/201_300/274/yellowvette.art|/IMG|
|IMG|HTTP://www.c3vr.com/member_uploads/201_300/274/yj.jpg|/IMG||IMG|http://www.c3vr.com/member_uploads/201_300/274/C3vr2002A.jpg|/IMG|
I called and talked to a few body shops in town and most of them where not sure exactly how this piece could be easily removed. Alot of the shops won't even work on corvettes for the simple fact that everything is virtually fiberglass and they end up spending more time then contracted and end up loosing on the deal. I showed them the pictures of the damage after hitting the deer and basically was told "good luck". Some of them suggested on using a cutting wheel to remove the clip forward of the firewall to allow plenty of room to work on the adhesive compound to remove the rest of the piece. It will probably be a messy job, but it will work. I'll have to do some more research for sure.
Here's a question that has really been stumping me. The wheelwells or inner fender skirts as you may call it attach to the underside of the clip. I planned on using the original wells because they are still in great shape. How do I attach them to the new piece where they will line up perfectly to accommadate the mounting of the hood? The hood mounts to the wells along with the core support holding the radiator. I would have to position it precisely where they went on the old piece; Assuming the new mold is exactly like the old. If this doesn't make sense, let me know.

Try contacting Chris McDonald (aka 69MyWay) via his website: McSpeed. He's pulled apart more than one C3 so he may be able to offer some insights.
There is a tear drop shaped bracket that attaches the front inner fender to the headlamp reinforcement that is bonded to the underside of the front end. This should position the inner fenders and hood mounting brackets in the right place.
The front fenders are bonded to the firewall right behind the front body mounts and right in front of the door hinges. You can sometimes take a putty knife and break the adhiesive loose. Sometimes the fiberglass will break instead. Good luck.
The front fenders are bonded to the firewall right behind the front body mounts and right in front of the door hinges. You can sometimes take a putty knife and break the adhiesive loose. Sometimes the fiberglass will break instead. Good luck.
|EM| |/EM|
Former Member
Send PM
Portland, TN - USA
Joined: 4/29/2003
Posts: 805
Vette(s): 1972 Coupe
Anything, but Stock and more mods to come!
SSBC Force 10 Brakes, 3.73, TH350, 355 CID, Rack and Pinion, Vette Brakes suspension front and rear.
I have had a couple corvette guys here in town tell me that if you can't find a standard body shop that is willing to do body work, then to look for a body shop that works on big rigs. The fronts on these trucks are fiberglass and they are familiar with repairs and replacements for these types of parts.
Makes sense to me and they plow in to dear all the time.
Makes sense to me and they plow in to dear all the time.


Hot Springs, AR - USA
Joined: 4/24/2004
Posts: 3236
Vette(s): 69 Conv #'s match 427, TKO-600/.64, 3.36HD-Posi, HT, T/T, PS, PB, PW, SP, Leather, Comp XE264HR & Roller Rockers & Lifters, Air-Gap RPM intake, Holley St Av 770 VS, MSD 6AL+Dist+Blaster SS, K&N, Jet-Hot Hooker Side-Pipes, Steeroids, Al Rad, Spal Fans
After Shark said: I have had a couple corvette guys here in town tell me that if you can't find a standard body shop that is willing to do body work, then to look for a body shop that works on big rigs. |
I use a boat shop... nearly all modern boats are fiberglass.. and they get drunk and run into their docks all the time..
my guy here does very good work
Well, thanks for the tips guys. I ended up using a cutting wheel to remove the front clip. I cut it a few inches forward of where it attaches to the firewall. It gave me plenty of room to get in with a chisel to remove the rest. Had it off in a hour after that. I sized up the new piece and it's going to fit with not much trimming. I still have not come up with a good idea on how i will mount the wheelwells to the clip. I'm starting to feel like i'll never get this piece on right. Also, i've been told to use 4040 to attach the new panel and the wheelwells. Is there somthing better or easier. As for now, i'm waiting for parts before i can continue. Thanks again.......... 

I'm not sure what 4040 is, we used a polyester panel adhesive. It mixes in the tube lie an epoxy, but has a slow enough cure time that you can position the panels properly. Be sure to test fit everything before gluing. Also all surfaces need to be clean and roughed to allow the material to bond.

in Forum: C3 Body
SPONSOR AD: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)