No , Ken , it depends on the thread of the intended bolt. Ofcoarse you have right and left threaded screws but as long they don't want to turn you just don't know that , right ? let's forget that boring manual who make's it even more complicated and can be wrong , certainly if it was ever translated. See my perfect spelling ! So don't bother that , turning the car you have more moment-arm than on a key on the bolt and the head always come of. So the part is lose.Afterworths you ask somebody to drill out and retape the tread , complaining about bad material bolts.....

Norbert

No , Ken , it depends on the thread of the intended bolt. Ofcoarse you have right and left threaded screws but as long they don't want to turn you just don't know that , right ? let's forget that boring manual who make's it even more complicated and can be wrong , certainly if it was ever translated. See my perfect spelling ! So don't bother that , turning the car you have more moment-arm than on a key on the bolt and the head always come of. So the part is lose.Afterworths you ask somebody to drill out and retape the tread , complaining about bad material bolts.....

Norbert

So after the head is gone, and the bolt is there, and it's drilled and threaded, do you get to chose the right or left handed tap to make new threads?  OR is that dependent on the side of the car?  or the side the steering wheel is on?  or location relative to the equator?

I under stand water swirls down the drain the opposite way south of he equator.

SOOOO.... if it started out as a right hand thread, and it's on the left side of the car I reverse the threads, but it's done with a right hand drive car so I reverse the threads again, but it's south of the equator so I reverse the threads again, but I'm now confused so I just put a pop-rivet in place of the bolt?   Of course if I'm installing the crank journals I would need to put a strain gauge on the rivet gun so as to get the proper torque/clamping force?

I think I got it!