Ok, I'm trying to figure out how much a paint job is going to run me. How much have you guys (& gals) spent on yours? Was it painted original color? How much prep work did you do yourselves? What's the best way to remove (if need be) the old paint? Should it be brought to primer or bare glass? What's the best type of paint to use? Clearcoat? How many layers? I'm figuring about $5000 if I do most of the prep work myself, but I'm sure that'll be an under-statement. It's a black on black '79 now.
Also, anyone have black w/ a little blue metal flake to reflect the light in their paint?
My next choice is to paint it the same color as my '04 Harley Lowrider,, Luxury Blue Pearl,, it has a purply tint when the lights reflect off it.
Thanx for your input,
Bill

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EdelBrock Performer w/ 750 doub pumper,port/polished heads, triple cut valves w/4th cut down the throat of the exhaust valves, 286 Comp Magnum cam, 1.6 roller rockers, ball-peen pushrods w/guides, screw in rocker studs w/girdles, Comp double-roller chain, , hi-rise valves covers w/ spacer (needed for the girdles), Flowtech by Holley long-tube ceramic coated headers into Stage II pipes (no cats), chrome wire looms for the MSD 8.5 mm wires, MSD 50,000v coil kit w/advance springs, cap, rotor, module, steel-braided radiator,heater,vacuum hoses, Infinity Kappa 4x6 plates (dash), Sony Xplode 6 3/4" (rear), chrome T-stat housing, A-arm shields, B&M Hammerhead shifter |IMG||/IMG|

I knew a guy here in town that reciently had his c4 repainted. He had someone do the job for him and paid around 5000 for the original color which was black. It was a top quality job. The painter that he paid also touched up the emblems up for him as well. I don't know about any of the prep work that went into it, but I do know that he did not do any of it himself. I hope this has been a little helpful.

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1975 Corvette L-48 Daniel

Funny you should ask this! I am about to turn over my black 79 vette over to the body shop in less than a week. I had the car bead blasted ($750) And then I repaired the horrable damage it had revealed from 25 years of abuse. Then I sprayed feather filler on the car and smoothed it down as best as my sanity would take. The materials for that were about (200-250. Now My body shop for $3000 is going to do a clear coat black paint job on it with the finishing prep work. Also that price included the front bumper being straightened from the last owners tap on it. The job is not done yet but to get to that point, its been since the end of november when I started. Its your choice if you want to pay in dollers or your blood, sweat and MANY tears. LOL If a quality body shop says $5000-6000 with out your prepping and you got the money...DO IT!! I am at my wits end with the body work.

|UPDATED|2/1/2004 10:41:27 PM (AZT)|/UPDATED|

Without much body work, I think most places will be $4000-6000.

Last year I visited a local body/paint shop specializing in classic/custom cars and corvettes. I spoke to the owner who stated they would remove all paint and primer to be able to visually inspect all of the fiberglass body. They would repair any superficial cracking. The painting would consist of 3-4 layers of paint including I think 1-2 layers of clearcoat. I was also going to have them paint-on the hood/door decals and pin stripping since my car is an 82CE. All of this would cost $3,500.00. I had him repaint only the hood at that time to check out their work. It cost $700.00 and turn out great. I plan on returning sometime this year to do the rest of the car. He said it would take about 4-6 weeks for the whole car and he would also redo the hood to insure all of the paint matched at no extra charge. A couple of things to consider. If you do the prep and the paint job is not to your expectations this gives the body shop a potential out by stating the problem was related to the prep. Second, whichever way you go clearly define what you want the body shop to do, how long will it take, what you expect as a consumer and most importantly GET IT IN WRITING EVEN IF IT IS SOMEONE YOU KNOW. If you have to provide a deposit, 50% down and 50% when completed and all work accepted to your satisfaction......Good Luck!

Mike

|UPDATED|2/2/2004 10:42:39 AM (AZT)|/UPDATED|


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Mike

I agree. With a big job you might want to break it into several phases. Pay some up front and go inspect the car and pay a deposit on the next phase. That way they don't have all the money up front and any problems can be addressed before anything gets too far.

Experience with my 75 says: Whether you do it or have the shop do it ... FLATTEN THOSE PANELS before you shoot them. The best laid paint can't make the wavy's go away, and the surfaces must be flat to give up the reflectivity we all want. Going that route, then shooting a custom color base and clears, then finishing the surface with Zaino chemicals ... let's just say she stops traffic. Looks like a piece of hard candy. I paid all the money, and I got all the results.

Tumarr,,,, what's feather filler? I've never heard of it. Thanx for all your help guys. I figured myself & a friend that does alot of boat fiber work would knock out a bunch of it, there's a couple hairline cracks in the front right 1/4 that I figured would save some money. I guess the cost may not be what I expected. Is there an advantage to putting extra coats of clear on? I thought they were mixing that right into the base color now to speed the times up.

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EdelBrock Performer w/ 750 doub pumper,port/polished heads, triple cut valves w/4th cut down the throat of the exhaust valves, 286 Comp Magnum cam, 1.6 roller rockers, ball-peen pushrods w/guides, screw in rocker studs w/girdles, Comp double-roller chain, , hi-rise valves covers w/ spacer (needed for the girdles), Flowtech by Holley long-tube ceramic coated headers into Stage II pipes (no cats), chrome wire looms for the MSD 8.5 mm wires, MSD 50,000v coil kit w/advance springs, cap, rotor, module, steel-braided radiator,heater,vacuum hoses, Infinity Kappa 4x6 plates (dash), Sony Xplode 6 3/4" (rear), chrome T-stat housing, A-arm shields, B&M Hammerhead shifter |IMG||/IMG|

Heres my advise .Ive been doing this for about 15 years and have come to realize that its best to do large jobs as an overall on an old car on a actual time basis.This is a plus for the shop and the owner.Its obvious why its good for the shop,they wont underestimate the work ,which is usually what happens.
Its also good for the customer for many reasons.#1 Shops usually try to overestimate overalls to be sure they are covered.If for whatever reason they go over the estimate they end up rushing it and throwing the car back together to get it out the door because they arent making anymore $ on it than if they took their time.#2 the customer doesnt have to come out of pocket with all of the $ all at once.Usually when charging by the hour ,the shop will bill monthly or semi monthly.#3The customer can check up on the progress and if he doesnt like what he sees he can shut it down.He can also shut it down due to job loss or whatever.Ive been doing this awhile and this system has proven to be the best for all parties involved.

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|IMG|http://pic5.picturetrail.com/VOL72/842190/1513606/18355259.jpg |/IMG|

expect to pay 4 -6 k for a good paint job. If you want a show car paint job expect to pay a lot more. Make sure you have whoever paints your car remove the paint which is there now to elimate any future problems. The more parts you remove the better the car will look when finished.

When I started mine I was just going to repaint and ended up with all new chrome, emblems, taillights and exhaust tips.

I went with my harly color. Best decision I made. Red Pearl. Looks better on the vette than on the bike. The lines of the vette really make the color come to life.