Topic: Paint Project Has Begun
in Forum: C3 Body
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.If your paint is cracking, the entire area will need to be stripped. It's possible to limit the area to be stripped, but I really don't recommend it. A new paint job will only be as good as what it's on.
Yes, sanding is incremental. The coarser grades are used to shape areas to be reworked or repaired. As the panel takes shape, move to finer grit paper. Always use a block, fingers leave little dips in the body that will be seen under the paint. I have hundreds of hours sanding and priming on my '68 and all the other cars I've done as well. Different primers require different grits of paper, so it's best to decide on which you will use and get the data sheets on that product. Too coarse of a paper and the sanding scratches will not fill up. Too fine and the primer will not bond to the panel.
When my body work was done, I shot thw whole car with polyester primer, it's a high build and just let it cure. This could get lengthy, more later, gotta drive from N.C. to Georgia this morning.
You'll have a ton of prep before you're ready for primers. Send me some detailed pictures of the worst spots on the car and I'll help as much as I can.
Hatch

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Sorry it took me so long to post up. I've been away. You guy's have pretty much dittoed what I'm doing. I have quite a few spider cracks, and am sanding the whole area down to the glass. The damaged area will be done with Dura-Glass. The cracks (as Dave noted) will be ground out with die grinder so filler can grab. We will probably use Gelcoat in these areas. I'm not sure yet. Its really good to read you guy's advise on this project. I couldn't do this without you.
Thanks, Terry


Westerly, RI - USA
Joined: 5/26/2005
Posts: 133
Vette(s): 77 L48
Original paint
True dual stainless exhaust
Edelbrock intake manifold
and Thunder series carb
Distributor has an pern upgrade
Please keep posting. I will be painting mine in several years and would at least like to do the prep work myself. This thread is a great resourse. Actually I think alot of us are watching the thread for advice. Thanks
A WORK IN PROGRESS
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[QUOTE=greypoupon69][QUOTE=timgman]"I bought it white... and wish it were blue still ;P
but that gold... and I'll simply call it "gold" is killer... hehehe
[/QUOTE]
Well <i'll be honest.. he's repairing the spider cracks... as far as how?
I have no Idea.. but I do know that he needs to srip all the paint off and add "endurafles" agent to it so it'll not happen again ;)
Hey,......what's up with the "gold" stuff...I'm gettin' a "complex!" 



So, does Dura Glass repair stress cracks or what do ya' do about them thingy's?
[/QUOTE]
Well <i'll be honest.. he's repairing the spider cracks... as far as how?
I have no Idea.. but I do know that he needs to srip all the paint off and add "endurafles" agent to it so it'll not happen again ;)
Actually the spiders I'm refering to are not into the glass, just in the original paint. That's where I'm taking it down to the glass. As far as stress cracks ie. at fenders, I will grind a valley and fill with some type of glass repair. I may even lay a glass mesh on the back side for strength. I am getting some help from a pro. I will keep you posted. Terry
Terry, what paint are you going to be using? Just incase I fall into some money and decide to repaint my car.
Brian - NCM Lifetime Member
73 coupe L48, Flat-top pistons, Performer RPM Heads, Crane Cam and roller rockers, Holley 650 vac sec. Performer intake,
3.55 gear BTO 200-4R trans,
Leather seats, Seatbelt Plus 3point seatbelts, Pioneer CD player
Magnaflow Exhuast System
Dewitt radiator and dual electric fans
Borgeson Steering box

My painter want's to use Sherwin Williams base coat clear coat.
It looks like my car???? That's not true, it still has some paint!

Mine only has paint on the T-top 

Therefore, mine still looks worse. Opps did I say that? I'll get over it. 

Just a note. The sander looks to be the identical one that I have. Can't knock that either. Sooner or later, I'll get to using it on my car. 

Former Member
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HARROD, OH - USA
Joined: 7/25/2003
Posts: 335
Vette(s): 1976 - L-48 Auto, A/C, AM/FM, Power Windows, Tilt Telescopic Wheel, Factory Aluminum Wheels, Inferno Red Matalic Custom paint with Black Leather Interior.
Man, brings back some real fresh memories. It's a good thing you have her up off the floor a bit. Man, your back really gets it if you don't.
I used three types of sanders on my 76, four if you count the hand sanding LOL. I used the air sander orbital like in the preceding photo. I also used a vibrating padded electric sander and finally a DA with some very low air settings. That was a fine little machine for the finish work. Of course the block work I did all by hand.
There a lots of small places that you can't use a tool on other than your hand so be prepaired for some sore fingers. It's a lot of work but, well worth it in the end.
I mostly used 80 and 60 grit self adhiesive disks which I bought at my local painters supply store in roles of 75 at a time for cost savings. Yes, I do have some left LOL. But, I had 5 coats of paint to get through.
I used 320 and then finally 480 grit for the blocking and finishing when the primer was all on.
I also had body panels to replace and some support structure to repair. I don't have lots of pics but, some if anyone needs. I replaced the total right front fender, upper hood surround and the nose.
Good luck !
I used three types of sanders on my 76, four if you count the hand sanding LOL. I used the air sander orbital like in the preceding photo. I also used a vibrating padded electric sander and finally a DA with some very low air settings. That was a fine little machine for the finish work. Of course the block work I did all by hand.
There a lots of small places that you can't use a tool on other than your hand so be prepaired for some sore fingers. It's a lot of work but, well worth it in the end.
I mostly used 80 and 60 grit self adhiesive disks which I bought at my local painters supply store in roles of 75 at a time for cost savings. Yes, I do have some left LOL. But, I had 5 coats of paint to get through.
I used 320 and then finally 480 grit for the blocking and finishing when the primer was all on.
I also had body panels to replace and some support structure to repair. I don't have lots of pics but, some if anyone needs. I replaced the total right front fender, upper hood surround and the nose.
Good luck !
Well phase one sanding is pretty much done. Next will come the body filler. She's pretty busted up in the rear panel. She was hit in the rear before I got her, and whoever did the body work used bondo. We will be digging it out and filling it with Duraglass. Also I want to do some welding repair on the frame. The only place she's rust through is back by the trailer arm. We're going to weld a plate back there and then paint the frame. I'll keep you posted. Terry
in Forum: C3 Body
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