One more comment.  Dura Glass is an excellent product, and it's waterproof.  Regular filler is not.   But Dura Glass is a bit rough with a rough surface.  One the Dura Glass is in, use a very light thin coat of lite body filler to smooth the surface.  It's less work in the long run when getting the surface right.   The lite filler is more flexable than regular filler, so it will move better with the fiberglass, and it's easier to sand and shape than regular filler.   Very nice stuff.

Couldn't have said it better myself Vince. I will also plan on priming and blocking at least 3 times. The first coat really shows any uneven spots or divots that need extra sanding. Its good to hear from you Ken. Mine is gonna be Red also. I haven't picked out the exact paint color yet but I'm leaning towards Torch Red. the tail section is almost done with filler. I'll send pics when I can. Terry

You are welcome Terry. And Ken, there is a finish glaize made specifically to go over the dura glass that isn't really body filler and yet acts much like the very fine finish filler. I can't remember the product number for it but, I will go out to my garage tomorrow and look on the cans. I have a bit left over from my work I did last summer. I saved everything so I would have the references if I need them. You really don't want to try to paint over the dura glass without putting this sealer coat or what they call top coat over it. Least that was what I was told by the body shop where I got all my stuff.

When you go to do the first and second primer and blocking coats you will need a trace color to see where you have been. I used enamel red oxide primer lightly misted over the surface of the grey primer. That way when you sand and area with the block set up any low spots will show up as the red primer. Then you know you need to build that area up with more primer or if it is too low, you will need to fill it with finish coat or bondo your choice. Then primer and reblock.

Micki, you are very welcome. Glad I could help. I have some pics but, not a lot. Not quite sure how to load them either. But, I can direct email them to you if nothing else if you want. I have some tips and tricks to get the paint off back in the rear window area at the deck. My brother-in-law showed them to me and they worked quite well. When you get to doing the job let me know.

Well, I only spray the Epoxy Sealer and then the Primer Coats. The actual color coats and the KromClear (3 coats) was shot by the professional. I wasn't about to put that much time and sweat into the body work only to screw up the paint LOL.
Here are the numbers on the products I used over the duraglass work. These are for use on all SMC Fiberglass. They are all made by Evercoat The finish glazing coat for the hard panels is part # 870 or 880 either one. Then there is a Finish or Glazing coat for the Flexible bumpers. This stuff will make those nose and tail parts smooth as a babies behind after you do the sanding and blocking. The part number on the Flexible coat is 39458.   They are both a cream hardner type that you mix for each small batch to be used. Trust me, work in small areas and mix more as you need it. Don't try to mix up a double batch thinking it will last through the work area. It will harden up on you half way through. LOL Yep, I tried it.....

Yes the glaze does work very well.  Good suggestion.  I didn't mention it due to the fact it's not as well known and a bit more costly than lite filler.  Very good advice Vincent 

Hey Ken. Why don't we ever see your Vette in the Online Vette Show? Your car is very popular. I'm sure you would get some votes.

Well, here's the latest. Here's some duraglass work on the fracture on the top (little advertizing for the forum). The work on the nose is to raise it up to meet the hood line. The hood was about a quater inch higher and can not be adjusted. We should be ready to shoot first coat of sealer next week.