Home page
SPONSOR AD SPONSOR AD

Topic: PAINT

in Forum: C3 Body


PAINT

Posted: 2/24/07 11:55am Message 1 of 14
Former Member
Send PM
Oviedo, FL - USA
Joined: 9/8/2006
Posts: 267
Vette(s): 1977 t-top
Question # 456. 77 Corvette will be about the 7th or so car I will paint.However this one comes with a problem(maybe).The original factory factory primer and paint have been painted over (15 yrs. ago) with more primer and Emron single stage.Looking for input about the 3rd paint job.Must I remove the emron? Naturally,someone has already told me to sand the entire car with 80 grit,prime and then bc/cc.I have already tried the razor blade deal,and I am not to cool with that method...too many gauges. For those not familiar with Emron,you can't chip it with a jack hammer! Nasty paint,tough as my wife.I'll take all the help here I can get.  Thanks again.


SPONSOR AD:: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)

PAINT

Posted: 2/25/07 3:33am Message 2 of 14
Profile Pic
Former Member
Send PM
Victor, NY - USA
Joined: 7/12/2004
Posts: 6841
Vette(s): 2004 Commemorative Edition Coupe, Auto w/HUD. 13K miles in 2015. Sold 1982 Red Coupe
If it ain't flaking off, I'd leave it on and paint over, as long as the paint will stick to it.


 
Save the Wave!
Support the National Corvette Museum   

PAINT

Posted: 2/25/07 8:01am Message 3 of 14
Lifetime MemberLifetime Member
Send PM
North Charleston, SC - USA
Joined: 3/20/2004
Posts: 4176
Vette(s): 1975 L48 AT AC T-top
Ask your paint supplier if your new primer is compatible with Imron. If you can get the primer to adhere to the remnants of the Imron then you can avoid stripping it to the glass. A store handling Dupont products can steer you in the right direction


PAINT

Posted: 2/25/07 8:59am Message 4 of 14
Profile Pic
Lifetime MemberLifetime Member
Send PM
HOWELL, NJ - USA
Joined: 5/18/2004
Posts: 6812
Vette(s): 1979, Targa Blue (72 Color), Pace Car rear spoiler, L88 hood, Dark blue factory interior, 525HP 406, HD 700R4, 370 gears,Steeroids, composite rear spring, TT IIs wrapped in T/A Radials.
If it's not lifting or spiderwebbing anywhere, I would block and wetsand in stages, prime and paint. Did that over an Imron job on a 70 Chevelle. 5 years later, paint still looked great before I sold it. I used a BC/CC system.


LukesVette Homepage
Veteran of Operation Iraqi Freedom
101st Airborne(AirAssault!)
God Bless America

Support Our Troops


     

PAINT

Posted: 2/25/07 9:42am Message 5 of 14
Profile Pic
Former Member
Send PM
Joined: 11/30/2006
Posts: 441
hubby says,if your into 3 layers of paint you could be getting too thick.that can be a new problem on its own.
p.s hubby is a sprayer
 
Joanne2007-02-25 09:43:27


1979 Corvette

PAINT

Posted: 2/25/07 10:20am Message 6 of 14
Profile Pic
Lifetime MemberLifetime Member
Send PM
Greensburg, IN - USA
Joined: 9/24/2003
Posts: 5188
Vette(s): Previous: 1984 Silver / Charcoal Coupe, 1988 Maroon Coupe / 1989 Artic White Coupe / 2001 Speedway White Roadster / Present:1976 Stingray Black / Black, Auto, 350 slightly modified (355 hp) Luxor Wires Redline Tires. / 1989 Roadster Bright Red...
Not real sure what clear coat (assuming this is what your spraying)will do.

In it's day Imron was the bomb. Then came Laquer. You couldn't spray Laquer over Emron as you are suggesting because it cracked and spiderwebbed the paint after time went on.

Laquer was favored because it was extremely hard and dried much faster. In it's quest to dry faster it would suck up the previous layers underneath.

I would be afraid that clear coat would do the same thing since it is the modern day, dry fast, and send it home today Laquer.
Tuxblacray2007-02-25 14:19:51


PAINT

Posted: 2/25/07 2:03pm Message 7 of 14
Former Member
Send PM
Oviedo, FL - USA
Joined: 9/8/2006
Posts: 267
Vette(s): 1977 t-top
Lukes Vette, What do you mean about "in stages".This next paint job,(if I don't remove the Imron) would be the 3rd lift of primer and paint.I have never even done a 2nd coat of paint on a car,no less 3.I'm concerned about that.Should I block the Imron and paint the PPG bc/cc w/out using primer under the PPG?


PAINT

Posted: 3/2/07 6:48am Message 8 of 14
Former Member
Send PM
HARROD, OH - USA
Joined: 7/25/2003
Posts: 335
Vette(s): 1976 - L-48 Auto, A/C, AM/FM, Power Windows, Tilt Telescopic Wheel, Factory Aluminum Wheels, Inferno Red Matalic Custom paint with Black Leather Interior.
Mike, this is my 2 cents worth on this. I would not leave the emron on the car if you are planning on keeping it. Hard to say what kind of trouble it may cause you down the road. I asked by brother-in-law (Sprayer for 28 years) what he would do and he said that he would suggest what he suggested for my car and what I did end up doing. I had 5 coats of paint to remove and a surface of clear coat that was as hard as rocks. I couln't chip it with a chizel point let alone a razor blade. What he suggested was Chemical stripper. And that is what he is suggesting to remove the emoron and then finish the job with 80 grit down to the original surface. If you aren't planning to keep the car you can do a complete 80 grit sanding over the emron and then buy Epoxy Primer/Sealer and shoot the car in two coats of that. Then after it dries for two hours get at least two coats of sandable primer on it. It will effectively seal the old surface and create a new surface to work from. That is only IF YOU DON'T Have any spydering or bubbles in the emron surface. The Epoxy Primer/Sealer is not real expensive and works well. I used it on my car to give it an added layer of protection after all the body work was done and before all the primer and blocking I did. Still lots to decide and it wont be much less work either way you go. Hope this helps... fedexbicman762007-03-02 06:55:13


PAINT

Posted: 3/2/07 8:57am Message 9 of 14
Former Member
Send PM
Oviedo, FL - USA
Joined: 9/8/2006
Posts: 267
Vette(s): 1977 t-top
What about the horror stories of the stripper effecting the finished paint job "down the road".I tried sanding on the hood,just for fun,with 80 grit in my air file,and did not get very far.So I tried some 40 grit (carefully) and did make some head way.I'm now seeing the original factory red enamel.Took me 1 hr. for that process. I'm concerned about using stripper.and understand it will speed up the removal of the Emron.If I can the Emron off,I'll be OK priming over the factory enamel.


PAINT

Posted: 3/2/07 11:44am Message 10 of 14
Lifetime MemberLifetime Member
Send PM
Eastern Oklahoma County, OK - USA
Joined: 1/3/2006
Posts: 1560
Vette(s): 1980 Black L48 T-Tops
Mike,

The guy painting my car showed me the other day that there are 3 layers of primer/paint over the original paint.  He will be sanding/razoring down to the original finish, then using stripper. 

He will be coming back up with PPG product but I don't know what stripper or primer he will be using.  He was a painter on the Oklahoma GM assembly line for 25+yrs until they shut the plant down.  Now he takes on guys like me and there is a line to get into his shop.  The point being, he isn't concerned about the stripper affecting the new paint job.



in Forum: C3 Body


SPONSOR AD: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)