Topic: Painting underside of hood
in Forum: C3 Body
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Any tips. I plan to take the hood off, sand relatively smooth, tape off the vacuum hose diagram sticker, and paint with spray can semi gloss black. Do I need to use a primer first?
I have a couple of numbers that are hand written in paint that some folks have said are from the factory. Should I try to preserve that section and not paint over?
I have a couple of numbers that are hand written in paint that some folks have said are from the factory. Should I try to preserve that section and not paint over?


1980 L82 (5069 made), Dark Green Metalic (844 made)
Gymkhana Suspension, AM/FM/CB, Sporting a ZZ383.........
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Hot Springs, AR - USA
Joined: 4/24/2004
Posts: 3236
Vette(s): 69 Conv #'s match 427, TKO-600/.64, 3.36HD-Posi, HT, T/T, PS, PB, PW, SP, Leather, Comp XE264HR & Roller Rockers & Lifters, Air-Gap RPM intake, Holley St Av 770 VS, MSD 6AL+Dist+Blaster SS, K&N, Jet-Hot Hooker Side-Pipes, Steeroids, Al Rad, Spal Fans
as for the paint.. yes you should use a high temp primer.. in fact i would high temp semi gloss black paint.. i painted the inside of my rims with high temp gloss black and the paint has held up well..
as for markings in paint.. that is a question for a wiser man than I.
It will make a noticable but not big difference in appearance.. when i detail a car I use stove paint on the bottom side of the hood and fender wells... just looks cleaner with fresh paint.
in fact i use a pressure sprayer on it first to get the gunk off.. with a vette you need to have someone hold the hood up manually, dont make the support arm hold it.
just a thought..
as for markings in paint.. that is a question for a wiser man than I.
It will make a noticable but not big difference in appearance.. when i detail a car I use stove paint on the bottom side of the hood and fender wells... just looks cleaner with fresh paint.
in fact i use a pressure sprayer on it first to get the gunk off.. with a vette you need to have someone hold the hood up manually, dont make the support arm hold it.
just a thought..
As far as appearance it will make a big difference for me, mine needs it.
Are you saying use a high temp primer and then top coat with high temp paint (like for a gas grill cover)? or automotive engine paint?
Are you saying use a high temp primer and then top coat with high temp paint (like for a gas grill cover)? or automotive engine paint?


1980 L82 (5069 made), Dark Green Metalic (844 made)
Gymkhana Suspension, AM/FM/CB, Sporting a ZZ383.........

Hot Springs, AR - USA
Joined: 4/24/2004
Posts: 3236
Vette(s): 69 Conv #'s match 427, TKO-600/.64, 3.36HD-Posi, HT, T/T, PS, PB, PW, SP, Leather, Comp XE264HR & Roller Rockers & Lifters, Air-Gap RPM intake, Holley St Av 770 VS, MSD 6AL+Dist+Blaster SS, K&N, Jet-Hot Hooker Side-Pipes, Steeroids, Al Rad, Spal Fans
i used high temp engine paint on the inside of my rims..
stove/grill paint is flat black only..
there is 500 degree and 1200 degree paint at most auto stores..
i think the 500 degree holds its shine better..
stove/grill paint is flat black only..
there is 500 degree and 1200 degree paint at most auto stores..
i think the 500 degree holds its shine better..
Just a suggestion; the markings most likely are factory, but they are hand written. Take a good digital picture and a good look at what they may have been put on with i.e. grease pencil? paint marker? Put the same numbers back on by hand after you freshen up the finish under the hood.

As far as to paint or not to paint, it depends on wether or not you are restoring to car to original or building a good ride. One of the TV shows restored a vette a few years ago, they said if you going for original and points in vette shows the inner fender wells, the fiberglass parts on the underside of the car and underside of the hood all came from the factory unpainted. The numbering and lettering done in hand are factory marks and should not be removed (if your going for points!). What they did is what someone else said here, they took pictures, cleaned all the areas to raw fiberglass and replaced the marks. Note the marks are different colors in different places, believe it or not even the color matters in scoring.
So the long and short of it is if your going for original and max points don't paint. Other wise use high temp primer and paint and make it look good.
Hope this helps, and if you have time stop by the on-line show and vote for milkman.
Thanks Glenn
So the long and short of it is if your going for original and max points don't paint. Other wise use high temp primer and paint and make it look good.
Hope this helps, and if you have time stop by the on-line show and vote for milkman.
Thanks Glenn
Thanks guys for all the responses. Good idea to take pictures and re-apply the markings or just have the pictures to apply at a later date. I used semi-gloss when cleaning up the wiper area it seems to shinny. I will use satin for the underside of the hood if I can find it in high temp engine paint. I am not going for NCRS points but this car is very original so I try to make choices that stay close to original where practical. 



1980 L82 (5069 made), Dark Green Metalic (844 made)
Gymkhana Suspension, AM/FM/CB, Sporting a ZZ383.........
I'm gonna go against some of the above advice and say you shouldn't need hi-temp paint. I did the underside of my 79 years ago and used satin black Rustoleum. Took the hood off and masked around the edges and the vacuum hose diagram. Went on very smoothly and can't be told from original(except a neater job). No primer as the factory didn't use primer. Put a new under hood blanket on also. I think the only concern about heat is if you severely overheated, but then the paint under the hood is the least of your problems. Headers haven't been any problem, either. Mike
in Forum: C3 Body
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