I am seeking input on what I should do about a scratch, well really more like a gouge, I put in my new to me Vette. Parts of it are somewhat deep.

I wonder if this could be a DIY project or would it be worth the (hopefully not to many) $$$ to just go have it done. I can be patient and also detailed, but I am not sure that patient and detailed.

Thanks for your help.

you can do it yourself...but it is a time consuming process.

Hubby had his Black '94 keyed. a couple of years ago and it was bad.... on the driver's side rear quarter panel...over a foot long and actally got down into the fiberglass.

Our friend of ours has/had the ''step by step'' to fix it...will ask Hubby what he done with it and post/email it for/to you.

Ok...here's the fix.
It's not the same as having the panel repainted,
but it will effectively "remove" the scratch to 99% of the original appearance
if the surrounding paint is in good shape, and a matching touchup paint is
available.
You'll need matching touch up paint, 1500 grit wet/dry sandpaper, 2000
grit wet/dry sandpaper, mini sanding blocks, bucket, rags, patience, a lot
of elbow grease, and courage.

With wet 1500 grit paper, carefully sand any raised the edge of the
scratch down to surface level. Use light pressure on the paper and be careful ONLY
to sand the edge of the scratch...not the surrounding paint. A "mini" sanding
block made out of a toothbrush handle is helpful.

Thoroughly wash the scratch free of sanding debris and dry. Overfill
the scratch with multiple coats of touchup paint allowing each coat to dry
at least 30 minutes before applying the next layer. It may take 10-20
applications, but be careful not to let air bubbles or dust dry into the paint between
coats.

Continue applying one layer on top of another until when dry...the
surface of the scratch is slightly raised above the surface of the car. Allow the
paint to dry at LEAST overnight before continuing.

After the touchup paint has dried at least overnight, use wet 1500,
then 2000 grit paper and a mini sanding block to sand the filled scratch down to
the level of the surrounding paint surface. Sand area around the paint to better
blend the surfaces, but BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO SAND TOO HEAVILY. If the car
is clear coated, it's easy to sand through the clear into the color coat, then
the whole panel needs to be re-cleared. If it's NOT clear coated...be even MORE
careful not to sand through the color coat!

When the surfaces are smoothed and no ridged or bump can be felt, using
an electric or pneumatic polisher and FINE cut polishing compound
(Meguire's #2), carefully compound the sanded area, then polish and wax.

Tips:
1. DON'T RUSH!!! Take your time at all stages! If you get
too aggressive or impatient, you'll wind up having to get the body panel
repainted.
2. When sanding, keep the paper and the surface wet. Not
"damp"....WET! Rinse the surface and the paper frequently with clean water.
3. When sanding, use light to moderate pressure and take your
time. If you apply too much pressure you could wind up in worse shape than when
you started.
4. Use a 1 inch section of a square toothbrush handle as a
sanding block for the detail sanding the filled scratch. Try to sand JUST on the
fill. When the surfaces are flush, then you can use your hand and
gentle...even pressure to blend the sanded area into the rest of the paint.
5. DON'T RUSH!!! TAKE YOUR TIME AT ALL STAGES!!! If you do
this, and follow these steps...the scratch will be 99% gone

Rose thanks very much. It is an '82 and thus clear-coated. The scratch is between the wheel well and the nose just above where the lower plastic molding meets the hard fiberglass panel. It generally runs parallel with that seem, but the are a couple time when it's perpendicular.

I had an idea. I wonder if I could "tape" off the scratch area so that as I sanded, I would sand the tape instead of the good surface area. I might have to experiment with this.

Any thoughts?

Thanks again for your detailed instructions.

|QUOTE|MNHoosier said: Rose thanks very much. It is an '82 and thus clear-coated. The scratch is between the wheel well and the nose just above where the lower plastic molding meets the hard fiberglass panel. It generally runs parallel with that seem, but the are a couple time when it's perpendicular.

I had an idea. I wonder if I could "tape" off the scratch area so that as I sanded, I would sand the tape instead of the good surface area. I might have to experiment with this.

Any thoughts?

Thanks again for your detailed instructions.|/QUOTE|

you could tape it but it would be better to feather out from the scratch(es) so it blends in .
Once you get to the end of it where you are polishing that area you might want to give some thought to doing the whole car.....THAT spot will probably be ALOT shinier than the rest...Hubby did that to his Vette..a very light sanding...with the 2000 grit (WET of course)...and then bluffed the whole car. Really made a difference and took out all the swirl marks.
You are quite welcome!!! Glad I could pass on the info!!!

If you need any ''help'' don't hesitate to ask!