I can tell you how I did mine.  It isn't NCRS correct, but it worked great for me!

I didn't have inner liners in mine, but I would recommend you take them out if you have them.

After removing all the screws, I took a putty knife (1" blade) and pushed behind the seals to remove them.  If you don't get the pins out, you can push them thru to the back side.  They will fall out easily.  I did have one that I had to use a #1 Phillips to drive out.

Since I have a friend of a friend in the business, I used Kent Automotive products as follows:  Acrysol P/N P60170 Body Solvent, Speedy 500 Adhesive and Cement Remover P/N P60175 and Ultra Stick weatherstrip adhesive P/N 10192.  I used the Speedy 500 first to remove all the old sealer and sticky stuff (technical term).  I then used the Acrysol to clean up the area and as a pretreatment for the adhesive.  NOTE: DO THIS IN A WELL VENTILATED AREA!  BE SURE TO KEEP THE REMOVAL PRODUCTS LOCALIZED TO THE SEAL AREA!  THEY WILL REMOVE PAINT! 

I then test fit the seals without pushing the pins thru the holes, pulled the seal back and spread the adhesive onto the weatherstrip, pushing the pins into their holes.  For the stubborn ones, I used the handle end of a hammer to seat them.  I then replaced the screws.

Once you have the seal on, put the top on the car and leave it for at least 72 hours to let it settle in.  From then on, use as normal.

NOTE: You may have to make some adjustments to your tops as necessary after the seals have seated in.

Hope this helps!  I'm sure someone else has done this and will post their way as well

Good luck!!
dnv2007-06-23 07:55:41

I did mine last fall and followed the procedure described by dnv. Mine turned out very nice. After they settle in some adjustments will likely be necessary for a proper fit. Good luck.

Scott

Thanks, two questions.  What adjustments did you make.  And....what are the inner liners.  I am a bit confused there....is that what the three screws attach to through the weatherstripping?  I have glass tops. 

If you have glass, then you don't have inner liners.  They are only on the fiberglass tops.  Sorry, I should have stated that above.

Where the tops go into the center or "T" rail, into the two pockets, there are most likely shims under the pointy part on the T-Top.  They can be removed or added to draw the tops down in front or back as necessary.

Also, there is an adjustment of the post on the latch that screws up or down and locks with an adjustment nut.  This will draw the top down on the outboard side.

Thanks, that is what I thought....shims and nut.   Great help....I will tackle this next weekend, then on to the doors.

You guys rock!

Ecklers has the shims if you need them.

Scott