I have a new friend in life.  This stuff is awesome.  I have used it in two areas that I thought were going to be a real pain, but it fixed them in a snap.  Saved me hours worth of work and frustration. 

I used it to rebond one of my side vent bonding strips, after standard expoxy resin failed to hold.   I also used it to fill in an area on the lower fender area where the valance panel attaches.  There was a piece of glass missing that would not allow this panel to attached.  So I glassed a piece to the back side of the fender skirt and then used this to bring the surface up to the existing fender glass thickness and then filed and final sanded it to the correct shape.  Save me a lot of time building up layers of fiber glass and body fill work to make it look like the factory.

Believe it or it set up in under 5 minues, cooled in 20 minutes and I have the repair done in under an hour for both.

After Shark,

 I have two cracks at the top of my rear passenger fender. The cracks are 4 inches apart and run vertically and all the way through. I have wanted to fix this myself but have never worked with glass before. Would this product work for this or do I need to try something else.

Thanks.

I also found this website that has a web magazine called epoxy works.  They and their products are dedicated to fiberglass and wood material repairs you would peform on airplanes and boats.  They offer up some good advice on how to do repairs.

http://www.westsystem.com/

After Shark,

 I have two cracks at the top of my rear passenger fender. The cracks are 4 inches apart and run vertically and all the way through. I have wanted to fix this myself but have never worked with glass before. Would this product work for this or do I need to try something else.

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I am in touch with the NCRS folks to get info on the same subject. I will share the info when I get it. Also, I talked to one of the best restoration shops in the country and here is what they recommend.

Dremel or carefully gring a "V" shaped groove where the glass is cracked. Place either blue tape of duct tape on the back side if you can to keep any resin from leaking through the crack. Once the "V" groove is there, wipe it down with lacquer thinner to make sure it is clean. Mix up the resin and cut up small pieces of the fiberglass mat to mix in the resin. Put the resin in the groove and repeat until it is built up to the level of the original glass. Paint and finish as you would any other part of the body. He claims this is what they do on the 100 point body off restorations to keep the cracks from coming back.

Good Luck.

Hope this helps.

Bill

After Shark,

 Thanks for the info on West Systems has a dealer in Highlands Ranch, 40 min north of here. I called them this afternoon, they will call back tomorrow. From what they couyld tell me thier product will work for the application.

 BLennox, thanks for helping out. Those cracks run vertically all the way though and are 3 inches long. After calling a few of the local Corvette body guys they said the same thing. I can't start on the project for at least a month. I have decided to do the rest of the body prep work myself and then send the car to the paint booth.  Honestly, I don't want to screw it up but one of the body guys told me if  I screwed it up I could always pay him to fix it. He said there is nothing I could do to it that he couldn't fix for $2500.

Thank you both for the help.