Topic: Aluminum Valve Covers and Clear Coat
in Forum: C3 Car Care
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Lifetime MemberDeBerry, TX - USA
Joined: 2/27/2002
Posts: 1006
Vette(s): 1971 383 Stroker- mille miglia red...5 speed
While my engine is out again, I'm buffing the valve covers back up after spraying them with some citrus cleaner when cleaning the engine a while back. Bad idea, that stuff really streaked them up. I'm using a stick of # 6 cleaning/polishing compound from Auto Zone and a buffing wheel. It's doing a pretty good job, just a lot of work. I was wondering if anyone has used a 'clear coat' over polished aluminum to keep it looking good and how it worked. Would it have to be a Hi-Temp clear to use it on valve covers?
longhorn294 2009-08-12 13:05:51
Hope to have it back together soon. Don't want to miss Eureka Springs!
I know the voices aren't real, but they have some pretty cool ideas... 
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You should use a high temp clear coat; however, as you are going over bare metal, you might want to see if you need anything like Bulldog - primer for bare metal.
Hey longhorn,
I'd think that a flexing agent would have to be added to the clear coat to allow for the expansion and contraction that goes on under the hood.
I once saw a dressed up 350 motor with custom painted valve covers and intake manifold. Real nice! The owner told me he had used a flexing agent in the clear coat.
Hope this helps.
Kevin
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I think a high-temp clear would be fine, but don't know if a paint will stick to the polished aluminuminum? The compound left on the surface may create an issue, but I also don't know what the heck you could use to clean the covers, that won't dull the polished finish you just spent all that time doing...
You might have to just take a chance a spray one, to see how it comes out. If the paint don't fish-eye, then you're good to go.
I've always just put a good coat of wax on fresh polished 'luminuminum, but...waxing valve covers ain't exactly a fun job while they're on the car! The clear-coat will be best. There are different types of clear, like satin finish, or even textured, so be sure to get the shiny clear...
You might have to just take a chance a spray one, to see how it comes out. If the paint don't fish-eye, then you're good to go.
I've always just put a good coat of wax on fresh polished 'luminuminum, but...waxing valve covers ain't exactly a fun job while they're on the car! The clear-coat will be best. There are different types of clear, like satin finish, or even textured, so be sure to get the shiny clear...
Joel Adams
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Lifetime MemberDeBerry, TX - USA
Joined: 2/27/2002
Posts: 1006
Vette(s): 1971 383 Stroker- mille miglia red...5 speed
Thanks for the info guys. Guess I'll just have to try and see wha hoppins. Joel might have a point, getting clear to stick on aluminumununm. They sure look a lot better now. Be nice to keep em that way. Let you know what happens, that is if I can find a hi temp clear.
I know the voices aren't real, but they have some pretty cool ideas...
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You might also want to use a dirt and wax degreaser and a tack cloth before you spray them with the clear coat. The degrease will take most anything off that would cause the clear to seperate (you may want to test a small area first) and the tack cloth will take away any dust, dirt, etc that may be on them before you spray them assuring you a nice smooth coat(s)
Best of luck!
Jeff
Lifetime MemberDeBerry, TX - USA
Joined: 2/27/2002
Posts: 1006
Vette(s): 1971 383 Stroker- mille miglia red...5 speed
[QUOTE=rraider1]There was a polish I think it was called Mothers that we used to polish up the aluminum cases of our motorcycles a few years ago.[/QUOTE]
longhorn294 2009-08-13 07:19:31
Yeah, Mothers is good, but unfortunately that citrus stuff etched the aluminum. 
They're shiny now but I can still see the 'stains'. I guess I'll have to get the one step coarser compound and then re-polish with the hi gloss stuff.
They're shiny now but I can still see the 'stains'. I guess I'll have to get the one step coarser compound and then re-polish with the hi gloss stuff. Thanks Jeff, a degreaser and tack cloth would be in order. Maybe rubbing alcohol or brake parts cleaner and tack cloth?
I know the voices aren't real, but they have some pretty cool ideas...
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A more expensive, but permanent solution would be to have them anodized with clear.
Larry
Larry
Lifetime MemberManteca, CA - USA
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Working with aluminum is a sensitive area. When I had my car painted recently the painter used a degreaser to remove any wax residue before sanding and the over spray spotted my rims. Don't know what he was using. On another episode, he clear coated an aluminum manifold for me (rough not polished) as a favor and it looks kinda yellow. Too thick? I don't know. Now I'd be afraid to try without experimenting on something else first. let us know how it turns out, would ya.
Jimmy B.
Just can't wait to get on the road again. 
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in Forum: C3 Car Care
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