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Topic: Wash & Wax

in Forum: C3 Car Care

Wash & Wax

Posted: 8/26/07 7:53pm Message 1 of 10
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Dorr, MI - USA
Joined: 8/21/2002
Posts: 2581
Vette(s): 71 Colonnade Hardtop Coupe Torch Red with black interior originally L48 built to push around 360hp
What do you guy's use to clean & wax your Shark. Having just had mine painted I want to be real fussy about how I clean her. The paint is still soft a little soft. After we buff her the last time I want to use a real good wax.


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Wash & Wax

Posted: 8/26/07 7:58pm Message 2 of 10
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Eastern Oklahoma County, OK - USA
Joined: 1/3/2006
Posts: 1560
Vette(s): 1980 Black L48 T-Tops
I use the Mr. Clean car wash and my painter said that to guarantee his work he wanted me to use Zaino exclusively.  The pink stuff (wax) and the black spray bottle (for between waxes).  Lots of the guys in our club and lots of the clubs (vipers, vws, miatas, etc.) are using it.

You can get it on line or you can find someone local that handles it, usually thru your local club or local vette mechanic. 

I love it.  Easy on (don't use much!), easy off.  The below pic is prior to the paint job.  Haven't found a good place to take the new pic yet.



Wash & Wax

Posted: 8/26/07 8:26pm Message 3 of 10
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Bladenboro, NC - USA
Joined: 1/22/2006
Posts: 1058
Vette(s): 1972 conv., sunfire yellow, blk interior, blk vinyl and convertible top. Off frame restoration with American Speed 383 stroker engine producing 500hp plus a 200hp NOS system. MSD ignition. Hooker super competition headers with chambered exhaust.
My car had never had a drop of water on it until the rain at the C3VR gathering in Pigeon Forge last year. I use Meguiar's Ultimate Quick Detailer. It doesn't get any easier than spraying it on wiping with a soft cloth.
rearn2go722007-08-27 00:21:45


Wash & Wax

Posted: 8/27/07 7:23am Message 4 of 10
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Frederick, MD - USA
Joined: 9/8/2003
Posts: 3398
Vette(s): 1969 convertible L71 427/435 4-speed black interior
You shouldn't seal or wax your new paint yet. Give it time to fully cure. If you apply sealer before it's cured, you'll find bubbles in your paint. Some of the release agents in the paint chemicals need to rise to the surface and you don't want them sealed in.

Ask your painter how long to wait.

Once you sure it's OK to wax, my advice is get a quality carnauba wax...too many of the synthetic waxes on the market, while long lasting, don't give the shine and clarity of a quality carnauba based wax.

I used to use Mequiar's Gold Class was, but I've since changed to Griot's Garage Best of Show Wax...best stuff I've ever used. A lot of guys prefer Zaino, which I''ve never tried, but many feel it's the best.


Wash & Wax

Posted: 8/27/07 9:22am Message 5 of 10
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Victor, NY - USA
Joined: 7/12/2004
Posts: 6841
Vette(s): 2004 Commemorative Edition Coupe, Auto w/HUD. 13K miles in 2015. Sold 1982 Red Coupe
Did you go with a clear coat over the paint?
Are you going to put any protection like 3M Armor on the front to prevent stone chips?
I would look at getting that done before I drove it anywhere or waxed it to save the front from getting pock marks.



 
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Wash & Wax

Posted: 8/27/07 12:35pm Message 6 of 10
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Dorr, MI - USA
Joined: 8/21/2002
Posts: 2581
Vette(s): 71 Colonnade Hardtop Coupe Torch Red with black interior originally L48 built to push around 360hp
Yes Dave. It is clear coat & lots of it. Its been about 3 weeks since the  paint job. I'm told I should wait about 1-2 months before putting anything on it. The paint still seams a little soft. If I just wipe a little finger print off, it leaves scratches. Does 3m Armor really work for stone chips?


Wash & Wax

Posted: 9/13/07 9:30am Message 7 of 10
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Victor, NY - USA
Joined: 7/12/2004
Posts: 6841
Vette(s): 2004 Commemorative Edition Coupe, Auto w/HUD. 13K miles in 2015. Sold 1982 Red Coupe
Everyone I know that has the 3M Armor swears by it and says they would do it again in a heartbeat.
You really need it done by a professional though, so it looks invisible.
And it is expensive.
But you want to protect your investment.
Not sure how long you need to wait after fresh paint.
That would be something to check out.



 
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Wash & Wax

Posted: 9/14/07 1:06am Message 8 of 10
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Shenandoah, PA - USA
Joined: 10/18/2006
Posts: 328
Vette(s): 1982 Chevrolet Corvette

Also you'll want to invest in some good towels (preferably microfiber) for polishing or waxing.  If you're causing scratches just by wiping away fingerprints then imagine having them all over your car after waxing it Cry 




Wash & Wax

Posted: 9/14/07 5:36am Message 9 of 10
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Flanders, NJ - USA
Joined: 1/27/2004
Posts: 2553
Vette(s): 1982 Black, ZZ4, Hooker Side Pipes, 3.55 Rear, Rebuilt & upgraded 700R4, All new suspension, brakes, & new Charcoal interior.
Don't do anything until the paint cures. Letting it sit in the sun helps the curing. By the way the car looks great, I only saw it at the C3X at Bowling Green last Oct. after you finally made it, looks like a new car now. 
Dave
DaveM2007-09-14 05:38:16


 

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Wash & Wax

Posted: 9/14/07 9:19am Message 10 of 10
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Dorr, MI - USA
Joined: 8/21/2002
Posts: 2581
Vette(s): 71 Colonnade Hardtop Coupe Torch Red with black interior originally L48 built to push around 360hp
[QUOTE=DaveM]Don't do anything until the paint cures. Letting it sit in the sun helps the curing. By the way the car looks great, I only saw it at the C3X at Bowling Green last Oct. after you finally made it, looks like a new car now. 
Dave
[/QUOTE]
 
Thanks for the kind words Dave. The paint is pretty well cured now. The only thing I'm using is Meguiar's Quick Detailer and micro soft polishing towells. Soon we will give her one last buff, a couple of coats of wax, and then put her up for the winter. I'm sad I can't make the C3X this year. I blew my budget on a paint job. Looking forward to getting together soon. Terry



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