I ordered a new Dewitts Black Ice "Direct FIT" radiator for the 82.  I got the old radiator out with no problems but the new radiator is thicker.  As others have experienced, I cannot get the new radiator installed with the Fan Shroud in place.  When I tried, I ended up marking the front of the radiator (will try to straighten fins with a pic).  

Not sure if all C3's have the same "V" shape in the center of the upper radiator mount, but for mine, this is the JAM point.

I removed the fan, but the shroud still won't pull back far enough for the wider radiator.  

The bolt on the upper control arm on the Driver side prevents getting the needed clearance.

I dont see how removing the hood helps in my case.

Has anyone tried removing the radiator support frame?  the 82 is held in place with 3 screws on each side but the bottom screw will need the front air dam removed.  My thought was if I could tilt the frame I may get enough clearance.  I was going to drop the radiator frame completely but then realized I had to disconnect the AC condenser but that would just create other problems.

Has anyone managed to get one of these wider radiators installed in the late model C3's and if so, how?

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Never tried replacing the rad on an '82, but I HAVE had to remove the upper control arm bushing bolt on several over the years to be able to get the shroud off, or moved enough to remove the rad. Don't know if that helps, but....

And no...not all years had that "V" shape in the center of that area.....that's all you bud! Clearance for the fresh air door solenoid...'82 only. 

Joel Adams
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What about removing the top 2 screws on each side and just loosen the bottom screws to rotate the core support forward a little?

My DeWitts dropped right in.  I did have to replace the core support, but that went in first.

Thanks guys, Think I will start with removing the control arm bolt.  Given the "V" shape of the upper radiator support I may also need to tilt the entire support but that is a bigger job, so start with the bolt.  would have been much easier if they designed the radiator support with couple bolts holding the upper support bar in place, but as I learned long ago, cars were never designed with "ease of repair"  

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I installed a DeWitt Radiator in my 1974 Vette because of the cost of rebuilding the original.

I needed to move the core support forward to remove and replace the radiator. There was no other way to work it and the easiest solution.

Finally got the radiator installed.  My son the mechanic had a look, we ended up removing the fan from the water pump (4 bolts) and the pully.  That gave us enough room to pull the fan shroud back/up slightly.  This gave us enough room to slide the wider DeWitts radiator in place.  We still had to install by first rotating the radiator about 45 degrees so we were lowering it in place with the "Right Lower Corner" first (where the lower radiator hose connects).  This allowed the lower radiator hose connector to fit inside the fan shroud then we could rotate the radiator back to level and work that lower radiator hose connector back out of the fan shroud and slide radiator into position (all this was to get around the upper control arm bolts).

Thought we had it -- NOPE , not my luck.  Turns out the new rubber radiator mounts Zip corvette sent me would not work.  These DeWitts radiators have wider/stronger weld joints along the seams.  These prevented the radiator from seating into the upper/lower mounts.  I called DeWitts and talked with a tech.  They sell their own version of rubber mounts designed to fit their radiators, however, the radiators they sell through ZIP Corvette have a slightly different design.  The ZIP radiator version has a flat top where as the version DeWitts sells from their website has a raised center channel.  The tech said I just needed to cut a small part of the upper mounts rubber to remove the excess for the raised center channel.    

After the slight modification, the upper mounting brackets bolt holes aligned with a little downward pressure.  

Now I just need to tighten the transmission cooler lines (the 82 build manual says torque to 34 nm, but I dont think I want to attempt that much torque.  I'm thinking finger tight and one more turn or until the metal connector stops wiggling), refill the tranny and radiator.

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Glad you got it in but why didn't you just buy it from DeWitts?

Yeesh! I thought you had already removed the fan! Guess I coulda axed....but ya...makes moving the shroud MUCH easier. Glad youse guys got it figured out, anyway. 🤠

I've had the raditater out of my '74 several times over the years....never had to move the core support...just the shroud, after removing the front, upper control arm bushing bolt. With that bolt out(and the fan/clutch), the shroud will come out.

Joel Adams
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The Corvette Gods are mad at me, don't know why.  The 3/8 hose worked perfect - Thanks so much for the suggestion (I was too fixated on the 5/16 in the Build manual).  Put new hose clamps on and torqued to spec.  Ran the car on the hoist to get tranny oil up to temp and topped up.  As I looked at the upper radiator Transmission connection, it looked like fluid was seeping out the hose.  I got under car to inspect all my lines/connections and all 4 connections were dry.  The tranny fluid was seeping out of the upper radiator pipe connector.  

Here is where the Gods got angry.  The 12 mm spanner was hair too small and 13mm too large, used half inch spanner (which I used to tighten with) and it rounded the nut trying to loosen off.  Will have to order another "Pipe Assembly" from Zip or Summit (none of the local auto parts stores sell this) AND HOPE THE THREADS INTO THE RADIATOR ARE STILL GOOD.

Next week's challenge.  Tomorrow is set aside to replace AC Dryer, fix a connector leak and re-charge.

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Metric spanners?  Do you have any SAE (inches) wrenches?  When did GM go to metric?

GM started using metric hardware back in the mid '70s. However...the cooler line fittings on the metal lines should be 1/2" SAE. Might want to invest in a set of "line" wrenches, Kerry. Might not need them very often, but they sure are nice to have when ya need them. They have metric and SAE sizes...maybe just get a 1/2", 3/8", and a 5/16"....that's about all anyone really needs for one of these cars. 

Joel Adams
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Totally agree with Mr. Apple.  Those wrenches have save me more than I care to admit...!!!

Jim Olson 

"The Toys"...!!!  Save the Wave!

Where I've been in a Corvette...!!!

Agree on the flare nut wrenches.  Everyone should have a set.

I don't remember my 78 Vette being metric though.

Thanks guys, re-ordered another upper coolant outlet pipe.  Will get a set of the wrenches before installing.  AC work went south with the orifice tube.  

Had a real hard time pulling the old orifice tube out of the evaporator pipe. New orifice would only insert about 60 percent of the way in and seemed to jam.  Top of orifice broke off trying to remove and reseat.  I ensured I used the oil on the o-rings.  When I finally got the old one out, it was black and makes me wonder if it is original 82 and the guys who converted the system to 134 in 2007 with new compressor/accumulator, could not get it out.  If you look closely at the pics my pipe appears slightly bent from the clamp up to the top threads.  From pics of new evaporators it appears the pipe should be straight. 

Do the orifices just drop in with slight pressure to seat o-rings? 

If so, it would confirm my suspicion my tube is bent.  If you agree it probably is bent, I will try to make straight at least enough for new orifice to drop in easily.  If not, guess I will be replacing the evaporator. 

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There might be a slight bend there...hard to see. Orifice tubes are typically hard to remove on higher mileage systems, even with the special tool for removing them. New ones will normally have quite a bit of resistance installing, and you need to make sure it is aligned properly with the crimped section of the metal tube in order for the orifice to be inserted fully....the end of the orifice should sit down into the tube quite a bit. 

As far as the color of the orifice tube(s), there are different colors depending on the type of refrigerant, and how large(or small) the system is. In reality, I have not seen much difference in performance in using the "incorrect" tube. That being said, I am not an HVAC specialist, so....I can only gauge my results from doing quite a few change-overs.

Joel Adams
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A special Orifice tool, I should have known.  A quick google search and sure enough there they are.  

Will the tool help with inserting the new orifice or is it just used for extracting.

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Not sure it would help installing. If there is enough bend in that tube, you might try to use a round tool/rod, slightly smaller than the inner diameter of the tube, inserted into the tube up to the bend, and carefully bend it back as straight as you can get it. Then see if the orifice will install correctly. If you look closely, that tube has a small crimped area where the inner end of the orifice seats. You need to make sure the orifice is turned to line the flat end of the orifice to fit past that crimp. Hard to describe, but I think it will make sense once you look at the tube, and the inner end of the orifice. 

Joel Adams
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This job is done.  The tube was indeed bent.  I used calipers to measure the orifice and then went through my tool drawers and found one of those multi-tip screw driver handles with identical diameter.  slowly carefully worked it into the tube until I had it down to the crimps.  The orifice dropped right down with a slight push to seat the oring.  AC is blowing cold.

Thanks again for everyones help.

Next, new tires - Goodyear doesn't make the Eagle GT 255/60R15 anymore.  have to switch to BFGoodrich or Cooper.  challenge will be ordering tires that have not been sitting in warehouse for 12-24 months.

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I got my Cooper Cobra GTs from discount tire (veteran discount) and they were pretty fresh.

Same here. Discount Tires had the Cooper Cobras that were fresh.

Joel Adams
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"Money can't buy happiness -- but somehow it's more comforting to cry in a CORVETTE than in a Kia"