High speed blower works off of a relay...the resistor has no effect on the high speed. The blower relay is on the side , near the top of the evap. housing, under the hood. Check the connection there to make sure it is not corroded, or melted. Could be the switch, too, but the relay, or the wiring to/from the relay is a more likely suspect for no high blower. There is also a fuse for the high speed, too, if memory serves...

Heat shielding under the carpeting is a great way to minimize radiant heat on the tootsies!
Adams' Apple2010-07-21 06:23:48

Adam,  there is a relay on the side of the evap housing. it has a 3 plug connector and a single plug connector on it. the single is a black wire that is a ground. Checked it and it is a good ground. the 3 plug connector has an orange wire that is hot at all time with switch on, the blue wire is only hot when the hearter switch is in the high spot, thus the switch should be ok, the purple wire carries the current to the blower and that makes the high speed work. So I am assuming that i need that relay? How does the relay work? when the blue wire energizes it, does it pull the connection inside the relay to give a full 12 volts from the orange wire? I hate working with wiring but i guess i need to understand it. Thanks again as you were right on the money with your diagnostics.
Rodney

The later C3s had a water shut off valve, as mentioned above.  It is easy to put one in the heater feed hose.  It is normally closed, so you can just leave the vacuum connection off.  When you want to use the heater, connect a vacuum line, and it will stay open.  A little crude, but effective, and decent looking.  Another thing to check under the dash is the little diaphragms that actuate the flappers.  If one of them has failed, it will leak enough vacuum to keep the rest from working well.  It is usually the that is hardest to replace.

Larry

Adam, thanks for the relay advice. After getting the correct relay i finally have a high speed blower motor! Now, i need to get the AC put back together. I received the VIR eliminator valve but its going to have to wait for about 2 weeks as we are heading for vacation. I dont think I can get it done before Thursday when we leave. I am super excited about having a cool AC car though! Now if the vents work I will be in business! I started a new post on vents but no suggestions yet. Might have to wing this and see what happens. Thanks again for the help from everyone on this forum.
Rodney

Thought I would update everyone on where I'm at with this AC changeover. Thursday night I installed the VIR replacement valve. That wasnt the easiest thing to match up piping and get everything to fit and not rub anywhere but finally its all connected. Then to fasten the VIR replacement valve tight (since the factory one doesnt fit the new valve) I went to Ace and bought a 4" rubber pipe cap with a clamp built into it. Drilled a hole in the clamp and cut the bottom out of the cap and it worked perfect. Pulled the system down to a deep 1/2 hour 28 lb vacuum and system held. wired in the new switch Started engine and charged the system with 134.  gauges read about 33 lbs on low side, 230 on high side. Have good cold air inside. Now, a question I have, the new valve is supposed to make it a cycling clutch. Mine doesnt cycle. it says it should kick in at 22 - 24 and off at 40 lbs. my system stays at 33 all the time. Clutch on compressor stays on. I turned the adjusting screw counter clockwise 1/2 turn like the instructions say to with the 134. Should I worry with this or just let it go. It feels good and cold but I cant drive it until I get my interior and vents back in. I'll start a new thread on that under interiors! By the way, I used about 36 oz of 134. Original R12 was 3 lbs.