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Topic: Re: air conditioner

in Forum: C3 Cooling and Heating Systems


Re: air conditioner

Posted: 9/14/13 10:55am Message 21 of 28
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Vancouver, WA - USA
Joined: 8/25/2005
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Vette(s): 1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
Also just discovered that there is an AC Delco new replacement available for the A6:


Might be another good option....




 

1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
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Re: air conditioner

Posted: 9/14/13 7:29pm Message 22 of 28
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Duncanville, TX - USA
Joined: 11/8/2003
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
daveo76 said:Joel, can you add to or replace the oil in the A6?  If so how/where?  

You can drain the oil in the A6 by removing the fitting on the bottom sump. But you can't put new oil in like that. To put new oil in, you need to have the compressor off, and stood on it's nose(clutch end). Pour a little oil into the suction side, and turn the compressor clutch to suck it in. You would normally put 1/2 half of the required oil into the compressor, and the other 1/2 into the dryer/accumulator. You can't do that if you have the VIR system(well...not very easily,anyway). So the next best method is to put the remaining oil charge in thru the charge system...same as putting freon in.

You say can turn the clutch on yours(there is normally some resistance), and the pulley bearing spins freely, but you hear noises when you turn the clutch....that is not normal. With the hoses connected, and assuming there is still a refrigerant charge int he system, you really shouldn't hear anything when turning the clutch. Chances are what you are hearing are the melted guts of the compressor. I can't hear or feel what you are hearing and feeling, so I can't say 100%, but, if it locked down on you before....it'll lock down again. A compressor can get hot, and lock up/seize, but turn fine when it cools down. Ouch




Joel Adams
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Re: air conditioner

Posted: 9/14/13 10:23pm Message 23 of 28
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Vancouver, WA - USA
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Vette(s): 1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
I just went out and spun it again and listened real close.  I don't think I'm hearing any noises that would indicate a completely fried compressor.  I do hear some gurgling/ from the box that the hoses go into.  Not hissing like anything is escaping, just some slight gurgling which I'm assuming is due to the fact that I am actually compressing the fluid by turning the comp. shaft.  But, in any case, I believe you're probably right that if the compressor froze up once it would do it again.  Is there any merit to the idea of just replacing the clutch and pulley bearing before replacing the entire compressor?  My thought here is that I could continue to use R12 if I keep my old compressor, but if I replace the comp, I think a switch to R134a would be the only way to go.  And don't you need to replace the drier and other parts if you replace the compressor?  



 

1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Re: air conditioner

Posted: 9/15/13 7:09am Message 24 of 28
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Duncanville, TX - USA
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Vette(s): #1-1974 L-48 4spd Cp Med Red Metallic/Black deluxe int w/AC/tilt/tele./p/w-p/b/ Am-Fm/map light National/Regional/Chapter NCRS "Top Flight" #2-1985 Bright Red/Carmine Cp.L-98/auto Member: NCRS, NCRS Texas, Corvette Legends of Texas
Dave, I would suggest that you connect your compressor, and with the belt on, run the A/C, and see if it still cools. From what I'm reading, something locked up on it, and you just disconnected the wiring. The bearing on the pulley spins free, and you can turn the clutch by hand. The "gurgling" sound you hear is the liquids flowing thru the compressor, so it apparently still has a charge. If you have a set of gauges, or can borrow them, see what kind of pressures you have on both sides of the system(high side & low side).
It's possible that one or more of the reed plates(valves) has broken, and got down into the compressor, and locked it up that one time. Depending on which reed broke, it might cool ok, or not cool at all, but it would definitely effect the pressures.
 Still....bottom line is, if the thing locked up at one point, and if there wasn't too much freon in it, there is a problem with the compressor. Having too much freon in one will also cause it to lock up. Similar to having water on top of a piston on the engine...it won't compress. Thumbs Up



Joel Adams
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Re: air conditioner

Posted: 9/15/13 3:01pm Message 25 of 28
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Suffolk, VA - USA
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Vette(s): 1969 convertible 427 4speed
I am about to do some major work on my 1969 427. The original harrison unit developed a leak so I put an aftermarket compressor on the car.  I want to restore the original compressor. Any suggestions on who can overhaul these units. I am in the tidewater area of Virginia.  Thanks, Bob


Re: air conditioner

Posted: 9/15/13 10:56pm Message 26 of 28
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Vancouver, WA - USA
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Vette(s): 1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
Thanks for the advice, Joel.  I am in the process of doing a radiator replacement so I plan to put the A/C belt back on and then hook up the connector and see what happens.  Ermm  Can't hurt to try.  Well, I could be out another belt, but it's a cheapie.  If/when I ever do get A/C working I'll put on a reproduction belt (going that way now with my alternator belt).  I'll post again after I get it running.  

Bob, can't help with your compressor rebuild, but which aftermarket are you using?  If you do succeed in getting your A6 rebuilt are you planning on selling this one?  




 

1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

Re: air conditioner

Posted: 9/18/13 11:50am Message 27 of 28
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CUYAHOGA FALLS, OH - USA
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Vette(s): 1975 C3 Red, T-Tops, Black Interior. All I need is time and money! Getting there!
It's not the pully you need to turn, it the center hub of the compressor in the middle of the pully.  That will tell you if the compresser is seized.
 
Just to add a bit to Joels statement.  The A6 compressor does have an oil reserve.  The A4 does not.   Oil does circulate with the refrigerant with ALL A/C systems.  That is what lubes everything, including the compressor.   That's where the film build up comes from I metioned earlier that creates the seal.  Flushing the system removes the film, and here come the leaks after a refrigerant change over.
 
Due to the fact that, as Joel said, the oil is often not added. Even without leaks showing oil, it can and will disapate with ANY refrigerant leak.  It DOES travel with the refrigerant leak, and that includes leaving the system.   Often oil traces show where the leaks are, but not always.  That depends on the volume of the leak.



Re: air conditioner

Posted: 9/18/13 11:04pm Message 28 of 28
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Vancouver, WA - USA
Joined: 8/25/2005
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Vette(s): 1976 Silver/Firethorn. L48, 4spd. Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.
The center hub turns on mine.  The compressor is not currently seized although as Joel mentions it may have seized at one time.  I'm just going to hook everything back up and see what happens.  



 

1976 Silver/Firethorn.  L48, 4spd.  Original 2 bolt, vortec heads, 9.4:1 CR, Speed Pro Cam: 224/224@0.050, 112 LSA, Eagle Steel Crank.

in Forum: C3 Cooling and Heating Systems


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