Topic: Aluminum Radiators
in Forum: C3 Cooling and Heating Systems
Already a Member?
Click Here to Login
Not yet a Member?
Click Here to Register for Free!
I'm chompin' at the bit to get this done!
I ordered a radiator seal kit from a local store. Cash 'n carry....Thought I'd save some time that way. It's been two weeks and the darn seals aren't in yet. 
Ah well...Soon enough.
Kevin
SPONSOR AD:: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)
OK, the radiator seal kit finally came in. 
I'll be getting to work on this Thursday morning.
I thought I'd spray any bolts with PB Blaster a few times this week before I start this job.
The bolts up top were easy to find. Then I looked toward the bottom of the radiator and found two bolts on the bottom of the metal radiator support.
Did I miss any other bolts that will need to come undone for a radiator swap?
The Radiator Seal Kit has a total of seven pieces. It's obvious to me where the 3 pieces on the top go and the 2 on the bottom.
Question; do the 2 side pieces of the radiator seals go on to the sides of the radiator or the back of it next to the plastic fan shroud???Thanks for any help!
Kevin
Hey Dennis,
Upon removing the stock radiator I found that it did not have the seals on the sides or the bottom. Docrebuild was a slam dunk!!! Their diagram is just what I need to finish this up tomorrow.
Thanks!!!
Kevin
This radiator is bustin' my chops!
The old (stock) radiator is 2 and 5/8 inches thick. The new one is 3". Therefore, when I ordered a stock radiator seal kit I didn't take in to account that the thickness of the seals would not allow me to move the radiator far enough forward to;
1) allow for the upper brackets to hold it down in place
2) allow enough room to set the fan shroud in to the clips just behind the radiator on the radiator support
Live 'n learn.
Tomorrow (with some help) I'm planning on lifting out the radiator and shroud again and trimming the thickness of the radiator seals which I have already glued in place.
If I'm way off or forgetting something please chime in. Any suggestions are much appreciated!
Kevin
I got a DeWitts aluminum radiator (direct replacement) to replace the aluminum radiator in my 71 when I got the new engine. It wasn't cheap, but then neither was the engine. It's been flawless. I'm not knocking the cheaper alternatives, just replaying my experience. The Dewitts was *exactly* like the original - slid right in and everything bolted up fine.
Lifetime MemberPoquoson, VA - USA
Joined: 11/20/2004
Posts: 1023
Vette(s): 73 Conv, Blue-Green/White Top - 454, M21 - Dark Saddle Leather, Power Windows, A/C, Tilt/Tele, AM/FM St. (orig. and sounds like it too).#2 -- 2007 Coupe,3 LT package, Z51 option, Victory Red, Ebony Int. Clear Top.
Ditto for me.. I got Dewitt's with dual spal fans for my 454.. but I may have considered the E-Bay type if I had known... I can't complain.. solved my running hot problems...
Lifetime Member #86
USN 1966-1970
WestPac 67-68 Tet I&II
Featured in Corvette Enthusiast Aug 2007 "Shark Attack"
Blue Green *** 454,4 Spd, Dark Saddle Leather, A/C, AM-FM St. (orig), PW, Tilt -Tele Wheel"
(click to see a bigger image)
USN 1966-1970
WestPac 67-68 Tet I&II
Featured in Corvette Enthusiast Aug 2007 "Shark Attack"
Blue Green *** 454,4 Spd, Dark Saddle Leather, A/C, AM-FM St. (orig), PW, Tilt -Tele Wheel"
(click to see a bigger image)
The war is over 
..........I hope.
..........I hope.
This was a tough job for an amateur like me.
The Ledfoot Racing brand aluminum radiator I got is a "three row" model. It's 3/8" thicker than the stock "two row" model. Once I trimmed the radiator seals it went down in where it needed to be. However, getting the (one piece plastic) fan shroud back in place was very difficult and took all afternoon. (The rad. went in and out a few times during this process.)
The toughest part with the shroud was getting the bottom of it to fit in to the clips at the bottom of the radiator suppert. A whole lotta "blue language" got thrown around, let me tell ya! The trans. lines were difficult, too.
It's in and I have no leaks. The car ('79 L-48) runs at around 160 degrees with a 180 thermostat.
The DeWitts would have been an easier fit but I had to save the cash.
Thanks for the input I got here. It's done!
Kevin
20111021145147r.jpg)
Cool beans there Kevin, a new radiator and the t-stat problem solved you should be good to go in the cooling dept. DB
in Forum: C3 Cooling and Heating Systems
SPONSOR AD: (Our Sponsors help support C3VR)