Topic: conversion from R12 to R134
in Forum: C3 Cooling and Heating Systems
Just to add to the thread - I did mine. Got an interdynamics kit, with all the info, etc to change it over. Also had a good guage set for 134a. On mine, it was a matter of drawing it down, charging it with the new oil (which is compatible with the old R-12 oil) and charging with 134a. Took 3 cans and I was good to go.
According to a licensed AC guy the only issue with the 134a swap is that the original oil for 134a was not compatible with the R12 oils and would attack the seals. This is not supposed to be a problem with the new kits. Napa, Pep boys, and just about any auto parts place sells the interdynamics kit for about 30-35 bucks. So it isn't expensive. Have used this same kit on 3 other cars with great results and have not had any problems after several AC seasons in NC.
Good Luck!
I still have not had time to work on the air yet, I'm still doing other things when I have time. I did make sure to seal all the air ducts and the HVAC case, did find the vent on the right side kick panel froze open and the seal bad. That would let hot air in when using the A/C, or cold air in when using the heater. Sure is a money pit, Like a boat! A boat is a hole in the water to dump money into! LOL!
You guys have a great day,
Xfire
Lifetime Member #73
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Ken couldn't have said it better. I've converted cars from r12 to 134a and when done properly there are no problems. The high side is up to 20% higher so a new compressor is needed. The less efficient cooling in a corvette would not be noticed. I converted my 91 Chevy 2500 Suburban with dual air a few years ago and it cools OK but not great like the new cars. On each switch I replaced all the seals & flushed the complete system first and there was a lot of junk that came out. So I would advise flushing the system. The sell a flush kit & it's not to much.
Alan
Also... what is involved in flushing the system and how does one go about it. I have converted a '67 T-Bird over several years ago with cavernous underhood space and do not recall any problems other than significantly reduced efficiency. I had all new hoses made up for that job and have aded only 1 pound of R-134 in 6 years. I am going to try this one using the existing factory hoses, then replace as necessary if they fail a leak-down test..
Dave
Look in the right wheel well behind the front wheel.
Flushing requires a pressure source and a special flush fluid. It is just forced/sprayed through the system components. Don't flush the compresser or dryer. You also don't want to flush the expansion valve or orifice, depending on which on you have. Replace an orifice valve, only a couple of bucks. Flush the expansion valve BACKWARDS, and out of the system. Otherwise the crud in the inlet screen will clog the system.
I guess this special fluid is available at a parts house. How much is used in the process? Is it a one-pass deal?
I might be able to use an air/oil tank or a pump-up garden spray bottle as a pressure source.
Dave