Topic: Convert to R-134a
in Forum: C3 Cooling and Heating Systems
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When I converted mine I needed to replace the high pressure hose so I changed all of the orings while I had it disassembled. I replaced the receiver dryer also. The conversion kit contained the new fittings. I flushed the system out and then pulled a vacuum on it for about 45 minutes. After determining that the system was tight I added the 134a. Everything works fine and it cools very well. Ken Styer(Kstyer) is very good with this A/C stuff. You should email him if you have any ather questions.
Scott
ranger3 2007-06-26 14:12:11
Scott
At a minimum, if the system is now working or just low on R-12, have the system emptied by someone with the right equipment. If it empty don't worry about it.
Remove the center valve gut, just like a valve stem on the tires, and install the conversion fittings for the R-134a connections. Then evacuate (pull a vacuum) on the system, add a touch of oil if it was empty to start with, and fill it with R-134a.
The R-134a molecule is smaller then the R12 molecule, so it can leak out of any thing designed to seal R-12, such as gaskets, seals, o-rings, and hoses. But it has been found the oil and coating that form inside the A/C system seal the components quite well.
If you open the system, use seals etc that are compatible with the R134a and you will have no problem.
Flushing the system is fine if you don't get carried away, and is in fact a good thing. But if you use too good of a solvent when flushing, you will remove the old coating and you could have leakage problems.
Thanks I also checked at a garage and they just change fittings and orings and the oil. Apparently the mineral oil and the ester oil are not compatible and the mineral oil settles to the bottem of the condensor, evaporator and the compressor.
R-134 runs a hiher pressure than R-12 & you should change the compressor to one that is designed for the higher pressure.
Alan
in Forum: C3 Cooling and Heating Systems
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