argh.  just my luck and stuff.  I get the vette back on the road for maybe two days, and I start having problems again.  I think it's still leaking gasoline, for one, but the bigger one was...last night...I was driving around, when her right side puffed up in smoke for a bit...coolant burning on the headers.  luckily I was right next to a gas station, and parked her there...a bit of a puddle formed, but not much...however there's a bunch on the passenger side floor, dripping down from underneath the dash.  I think it might be the heater core...I had it taken to a shop last time I find coolant dripping from that SAME area inside, and they told me it was the heater core.  I got it back to my garage safely, but I'm concerned...there are a few little drops of coolant where she was sitting, and I don't have a working temp gauge.

 

to compound matters, my ignition has been causing large problems...toward the end of all that work, the shop had trouble getting her to start, recharged the battery, and found it dead the next day.  they said they thought that the speakers/amp connection was causing a problem, draining the battery even when the car was off.  when I came out one morning to the same problem, I had the car jump-started, disconnected the speakers/amp from the battery, and drove the car for hours so the alternator would *hopefully* recharge the battery.  this morning, the battery was dead again...nothing when I turn the key.

also, just for my peace of mind...since I've never experienced a BRAND new engine...this engine was built to put out around 600 horsepower, and it feels like I'm getting maybe 100-150...that will change as I put more miles on the motor, yes?  (only about 50 miles on the motor thus far.)  additionally, accelerating from a complete stop, such as a stoplight, I depress the throttle only minimally, the car barely rolls forward (maybe 5-10 mph), and I hear the engine wind up a bit, then the transmission shifts and the car continues on its way.  without a working tach, I have no way of seeing what the RPMs are at when it does this.

sigh...so many problems, still, after 16 grand worth of work...this is INCREDIBLY depressing, and making me want to go out and buy a C5 or C6.

Hang in there, buddy!
Definitely sounds like a heater core leak, if it's leaking on the inside, also. Might check the hoses where they go on to the core; if they're loose, it could dump coolant inside and out.
I wouldn't be concerned about power output on the new engine just yet. Get it broke in first, and then get it tuned/ adjusted properly. These things take time, and if other nasties rear their ugly heads along the way, it can get very frustrating. "This, too, shall pass"!
Sounds like you also need to invest in a battery disconnect switch. Don't take a chance on burnin' you're new ride to the ground due to a short in the 'lectrical system . It will save your car, and keep the batt. from going dead until you can find the problem.
We've all been in the same place as you are, so don't give up. Adams' Apple38584.8768981481

Your low battery may impact the spark also.  Less spark, less power.  Just a thought.

Mark

When I get pissed at the car I just turn off the lights and go read all that I can about the problem, more than twice, then I don't worry about fixing the car, stress is gone,then I fix the car, anybody can buy a new car, it'll be more rewarding when you get it together and blow off a new vette, I went to a closed coarse all corvette drag race between clubs and C-5's with tweeked ZO-6's were turning mid 13's-12.90's, your 406 should be right there.
      Mark is right about the weak battery causing a weak ign., also a bad Diode in the generator will drain even a new battery in quick fashion, you might also play the power drain game at the fuse box with a digital engine multimeter analyzer

the guys that put everything together said the car should actually be running mid-to-high 11s.  provided I can get everything to stop leaking and draining!

[QUOTE=corvette427]Your low battery may impact the spark also.  Less spark, less power.  Just a thought.

Mark
[/QUOTE]

so this totally has nothing to do with my problem, but...are there specific cables meant to tie your t-tops to the rack, or can I just look for some bungee cord or what...cause having to leave my tops at home whenever I take em off is a fairly large inconvenience, considering the unpredictability of the weather in North Dakota in late August.

When our cars were new GM had an over the counter t-top hold down kit, they don't make them anymore, I found a unused kit on E-bay and won the bid for 175.00, when I got the kit it had brackets and hold down straps, with an alignment hole for the t-top pin, the down side was that you had to drill your rack so you could rivit the brackets to the rack, if I remember right I think there were 4 brackets which made your rack useless for anything else, I didn't want all that weight on the rear deck anyway, sold it at a swap meet, I bet if you stare at it long enough you can figure out a bungee cord arrangment.

Once the leaks are fixed and electrical issues are fixed, I would take the car to a good hotrod shop that does tuning on a chassis dyno. they can get the car running well and unleash its power. sounds like you got alot of tuning issues to take care of.

I don't know of a chassis dyno anywhere nearby...there's one about 2 1/2, 3 hours away...