I've tried reinstalling the air dam that directs air over the radiator but that didn't seem to help much.

I know more air is the key, and it doesn't seem like I need much more since my heating issues only come when the weather is very hot (and that the time you really want to drive your Vette!)

I know it seem obivous that when the weather is hot, the car overheats, but it also seems like there is too small of a window when this happens.  More air is the key, I'm just looking for the best way to get pass it though the radiator. 

Drop your antifreeze mixture to 10 or 20% antifreeze, add water wetter (1 bottle). Water cools better than an antifreeze mixture  with water wetter you'll drop your temp 10 to 20 degrees..

Alan

Have the fan clutch re furbished and put it back in. Simple is always better. There are people who do this work.

180 degree is better for the motor, the 160 never lets it warm up enough in cool weather to burn off the water and crap in the oil - besides, the heater works better too!

Electric fans? Why re- invent something the General did 30 years ago. My 72 manual with air never overheats, even when its 95.

If you have overheating, that's a different animal.

It's the KISS policy Keep It Simple

I agree do agree that original is better, but my motor isn't.  The heating issue started after the motor was rebuilt.  Even when it's cold outside (like at night this time of year) the engine temp gauge never goes above 160, but I still have all the heat I want.  If I can get the cooling issue out of the way, I still would like to put a 180 back in it.

However, after posting in this forum I think I'm going to take a second look at the mechanical fan and other options (like engine timing.)  If nothing else, I'll replace my clutch and possibly get a better fan blade.  I still would like some type of auxiliary cooling like an electrical fan that I could control from inside the car when needed in traffic or something.

I appricate all the comments and continue to welcome others.

 

Thanks!

I guess the new motor has taxed the cooling system somewhat.

Here's what I hear to fix the problems

Radiator obviously in good shape and not corroded?  Brass or aluminum? Aluminum is the way to go.....A Dewitt will set you back but NOBODY complains that it doesn't help or fix the problem.

Easy stuff such as timing advance at idle, all the seals around the radiator + hood there and in good shape, no collapsed radiator hoses  - the spring is inside the lower hose and not corroded away.....

Personally I would replace the fan clutch. If you still need to bring temp. down install an axuillary elec. push fan on front side. You can put a temp. sensor in the system that only turns fan on when needed. I use Hayden brand in my shop and never had a problem with them. Believe it or not, newer cars with only electric fans go on when temp. hits 230. To me that's too hot. Be careful with high pressure cap. It may be too much pressure for your cooling systems hoses, rad., heater, etc. Besides it only raises the boiling point of coolant. You only raise boiling point by 6 deg. for every 7 lbs of pressure. Terry ( rad shop & cooling system specialist for a living)  my7T138650.6019328704

My '81 came with clutch fan removed altogether, and twin
electric fans in a side by side mount right on the back
oe the radiator. Thermostat operates a seperate relay which switches the fans. I have a manual override switch
fitted to the console also. I've had no probs at all,
just runs when it needs to, temp guage has never shown
anything unusual. Let me know if you would like some more
infor and I will see if I can ID the setup (it looks like
it is a custom for corvette job) and can also take a few
digital piks and send them to you...



Kiwi Chris

 Once apon a Time I read a Hot Rod Magazine that tested all the Popular Fans on the Market and Guess wich won made the most HP? The Stock Fan with the Fan Clutch! If the Fan Clutch is working Properly your not going to Gain anything using any thing else. So why do all the new Cars come with Electrics? Probably the same reason as most innovations that being emissions. If a Computor has the ability to control everything then its going to pollute less. That being said the Dewitts Direct Fit Aluminum Radiator with there Dual Spal Fan set up bolts right in even if the Bottom Hose sits on the Sway Bar. As my Car is Controled by a Computor ( Accell Gen 7) I thought I might as well Modernise....Richard...

     One thing that will help passenger compartment heating is to keep the heat from getting to your heater coiles. Do this with a heater hose cut off valve. I dont beleive it makes a difference which hose its installed in. As far as electric fans go, I understand they draw somewhere around 22 amps. I have talked to a lot of sales people selling fans. The custon fitted dual fan set up seams to be the best. That is a $500.00 bill. The fans that are mounted with plastic studs through the radiater with nine spring loaded studes also Iam told work well. those are for odd shaped radiaters where no fitted fan shroud is available. As far as a 160 degree thermostate is concerned, Ilived in minnesota for 25 years and for many months in the winter the heat gage never got off warm. I think that's what multi-grade oil is for

Great subject, lets find out more....anyone. stingraybs

I agree with Richard. If the rest of  your cooling system is in top notch shape, a working clutch fan should be all you need. Why do new cars come with elec. fans? They are all front wheel drive. It would be tough to run a shaft fan with an east west motor........... Terry