Thanks

Lonnie

 

A fan clutch will allow a good air flow at low rpm, but turns slower than the engine at high rpm.   It still turns fast enough to move all the air you need, and in fact can move more air than a fan at 5000 rpm due to the air flow turbulance. 

 

In addition, it can cut drag allow for more power at high rpm and better fuel mileage on the highway.

 

All fan clutches do this, but a thermo fan clutch takes it another step.

As the air comes across the radiator, then hits the clutch, it is either hot or cold air, depending on the engine and radiator temp.

 

When the engine is cold, the fan mostly freewheels cutting drag even more.  The warmer it gets, the more air it moves, and the better it cools, as the cooling is needed.

 

If you decide to go with electric fans use two instead of just one.   You need to cover as much radiator space as possible.   An electric only cools the part of the radiator it is directly in front of.   Down the road it will get air across the entire radiator and still cool at high enough road speed.   But at lower speeds you could still have a overheat problem.   

 

With enough coverage by electric fans, you won't have the problem.

 

Even with the mechanical fans, the fan shroud is important.  Again, to maximize the air flow across the entire radiator surface.

Thanks guy's

Lonnie Green

 

I had my radiator serviced, replaced the water pump with a high-flow (advertised 30% more flow), installed a 160-degree thermostat, tossed the fan shroud, the fan, and the pulley for the air pump (removed thanks to no more emmissions requirement), installed the electric fan kit (dual fans with thermostat for on at 190 and off at 170).  I also installed a on/off switch on the dash so I can manually activate the fans when I run the A/C, and a pilot lamp to let me know when the fans are running, in case I can't hear them at speed.  I installed a bigger alternator, because the fans suck a lot of power.  I put a ball valve in the heater hose so I can shut it off in the summer, increasing the A/C efficiency.

 

The result is phenomenal.  The coolant gauge says that the temp never exceeds 190, even on a hot day in traffic, yet I have heat in the winter thanks the the 160-degree thermostat.  The fans come on at 190, and the temp starts to drop to 170.  If I'm moving during a 75-degree day, they don't come on until I sit at a light.  On days below 65, they don't come on at all.  Another great benefit is that the oil temp is now down, so I scrapped the oil-cooler plans.  I'm sure that the auto trans fluid is like wise benefiting.

 

Knowing the inherent heat rejection problems of a C-3, I would do it all again if I had to.  It's the best mod I've made so far.  Please consider it!  Let us know what you decide.

 

Whatever type fan you use, use the seals!!!   

 

I had my radiator serviced, replaced the water pump with a high-flow (advertised 30% more flow), installed a 160-degree thermostat, tossed the fan shroud, the fan, and the pulley for the air pump (removed thanks to no more emmissions requirement), installed the electric fan kit (dual fans with thermostat for on at 190 and off at 170).  I also installed a on/off switch on the dash so I can manually activate the fans when I run the A/C, and a pilot lamp to let me know when the fans are running, in case I can't hear them at speed.  I installed a bigger alternator, because the fans suck a lot of power.  I put a ball valve in the heater hose so I can shut it off in the summer, increasing the A/C efficiency.

 

The result is phenomenal.  The coolant gauge says that the temp never exceeds 190, even on a hot day in traffic, yet I have heat in the winter thanks the the 160-degree thermostat.  The fans come on at 190, and the temp starts to drop to 170.  If I'm moving during a 75-degree day, they don't come on until I sit at a light.  On days below 65, they don't come on at all.  Another great benefit is that the oil temp is now down, so I scrapped the oil-cooler plans.  I'm sure that the auto trans fluid is like wise benefiting.

 

Knowing the inherent heat rejection problems of a C-3, I would do it all again if I had to.  It's the best mod I've made so far.  Please consider it!  Let us know what you decide.

Do you still have the computer in your 82? If you do, does the lower temp. give you any problems with the way it runs? I don't know at what temps. the computer makes adjustments, but the 82 normally runs at about 215 degrees. Running it at say 170 degrees the computer will think it's not warmed up yet. Sorry I don't know more exact info. I was told not to use less than a 190 degree thermostat.

Dave

 

I have replaced the computer in the past due to cease-fire syndrome, but I used the old prom.  Then the second computer failed me one day by losing the idle circuit.  It would only run as long as I kept pumping the gas above idle.  When I got home, I watched the injectors, and they would quit anytime the throttle was at home position.  I put the prom back in the old computer, and it has been running well ever since.  My conclusion is that cease-fire can be cured by reseating the prom, creating a better contact between the pins and the socket.  Just be sure to get all the pins in the socket, and don't bend any.

 

Steve